or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION - Page 8

post #106 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Okay, have at it:

 

 

Interesting take on a Great Coat.

 

Here's one by Crombie who made the orignal ones for the British miltary.

 

post #107 of 436
Quote:
Have you seen this other variety? Is it a weird Italianism?


I don't know, like I said this is the first time to see pipes on this style pocket.

There is a difference in construction between the Isaia and Rubinacci. The pipes on the Rubinacci have been pressed open making the pipes look equal thickness to the coat. Isaia has the pipes turned under making the pipe thinner and adds a bit of bulk above the pipe. This method is a short cut that bothers me but not others.

If you notice, Rubinacci sized the flap to match the exact width of the herringbone pattern. The flap starts and ends on the line of the herringbone. Something I would get all OCD about doing, so kudos to them.
post #108 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


There is a difference in construction between the Isaia and Rubinacci. The pipes on the Rubinacci have been pressed open making the pipes look equal thickness to the coat. Isaia has the pipes turned under making the pipe thinner and adds a bit of bulk above the pipe. This method is a short cut that bothers me but not others.

The Rubi in general has much more 3-dimensionality.
post #109 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I've heard such pockets called many things, including mail-slot and envelope. I've long known they are organic to Ulster-type coats. However, in their typical execution, they are all right angles--essentially a rectangle with an inset flap just below the top edge.

Apparently, such pockets are a foreign concept to Neapolitans. Maybe I'm wrong about that, but Mariano couldn't make heads or tails of what I was showing him. For a long time, he thought I wanted a flapped patch pocket with double stitching and thick, swelled edges. Those are the sort typical of Rubinacci overcoats. You can see them on bespoke examples posted online as well as on their ready-to-wear overcoats.
......

not that unfamilar to neapolitans
some photos of panico's coats
have a similar construction

i found two pix of my coat
in my phone
the pocket construction
is broadly similar

the fabric is a 32oz/1kg
vintage moorebrook



post #110 of 436

The coat looks wonderful! And I enjoyed reading Tweed in the city!

post #111 of 436
Thread Starter 
Interesting, Jan. Between your coat, the Isaia, the one in Banis's photo (Volpe's work?), and mine, it would appear that this welted-flap-in-a-patch type of pocket is not at all uncommon in Naples. Yet, it seems very odd compared to the other envelope-style pockets around.
post #112 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I think that's just a flapped patch pocket.

Here is an illustration of an Ulster coat with envelope pockets. Notice that the flap is fully set within the boundaries of the pocket. You can even see the welt (pipe?) above the flap.

ulsterovercoat_zps41a9a1a9.jpg

So you agree it's an Ulster then! happy.gif
post #113 of 436
The beautiful fabric and pocket details really give that coat a wonderful distinctive look. It is very nice.

The rear vent does seem to be pulling open too far. Perhaps that could be an easy adjustment?
post #114 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

 

 

Interesting take on a Great Coat.

 

Here's one by Crombie who made the orignal ones for the British miltary.

 

 

Looks 100 times better than the bespoke item.

post #115 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnnamedPlayer View Post

Looks 100 times better than the bespoke item.

Disagree.

That thing looks like a shitty military surplus coat and only looks reasonable because of good photography and (presumably) a perfectly proportioned model.
post #116 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post


Disagree.

That thing looks like a shitty military surplus coat and only looks reasonable because of good photography and (presumably) a perfectly proportioned model.

 

+1

post #117 of 436
Great thread.

Matt,

The coat looks quite nice. Did you try Chris's suggestion about unbuttoning the belt to release the pleating, and if so, did it relax a bit?
post #118 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnnamedPlayer View Post

Looks 100 times better than the bespoke item.

You're a douchebag. Shut up already.
post #119 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

20 pages

post #120 of 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Interesting, Jan. Between your coat, the Isaia, the one in Banis's photo (Volpe's work?), and mine, it would appear that this welted-flap-in-a-patch type of pocket is not at all uncommon in Naples. Yet, it seems very odd compared to the other envelope-style pockets around.

My overcoat from Naples has the same kind of pockets; different tailor than the others mentioned before. Seems like this pocket is common indeed.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION