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Pitti Uomo 83: Classic Menswear Edition - Page 19

post #271 of 384
1/20/13 at 9:48pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post

I think the main reason Wooster looks good on camera is that he's so well groomed with great hair and a great face. It's the most striking part of his look.

Absolutely, and he is in decent shape for a guy his age. This is also the reason that he is so much less impressive in person. If he were 6'2" instead of 5'7", he'd be like Hemmingway. As is, he is more like a very well-mustachioed elf. But it's nonetheless silly to say that he looks unimpressive.
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post #272 of 384
1/20/13 at 10:06pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

I was at the NY show today, wish you had seen the Luigi Borrelli guy that makes the rounds of the blogs (not sure if he is the son, grandson or whatever). Think ballet tights, rolled up with 2 inches of ankles showing, jacket which barely reached the pants waistband and it being worn as if it were a Nike DriFit athletic shirt. I think his shoes were white distressed wingtips of some sort. Compared to him, Wooster looks like he is wearing Anderson and Sheppard. Of course, the bloggers that were there were shooting pics of him like he was a God confused.gif

That would probably be Fabio Borrelli. I think that his jackets have been getting tighter and shorter with each year for at least 5 years. I have to admit that after a few weeks of travelling around Europe, and Italy in particular, it takes me a while to recalibrate to the USA. I often find myself thinking "This jacket is really loose", while by any American standards, it would be about as slim as a tailor could bear to make it, and "this jacket seems really long," when in reality, none of my jackets (admittedly, all of them odd jackets worn with jeans and casual pants, some of them really baggy) are longer than half an ass.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imperator View Post

He throws together a lot of menswear trends from the last 5 years, but not, in my admittedly subjective opinion, successfully. He's a product of his milieu, but he never transcends it. He's superficially transgressive, but that doesn't make him interesting or stylish.

Just my opinion.

I wouldn't call him innovative, but I find his execution pretty impeccable. I'm not sure that I'd even call his look mildly trangressive. But, while I never wear camo, after seeing a few pictures of him with odd jackets and camo pants, I've been caught thinking, "maybe I'll try my old milsurp pants with that jacket." I really do wish that he'd switch up his silhouette, but I think that his being so short irl would make wearing baggier clothing a not so wise decision.
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post #273 of 384
1/21/13 at 1:29am
Might be worth noting that what you consider a #menswear trend is a #menswear trend (partly) because of Nick Wooster. Whether you care for the particular look is one thing, but it's not like he took his look from Tumblr. Rather, it's the other way around.
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post #274 of 384
1/21/13 at 6:35am
Apropos of nothing, he must get hot under all that tweed. I could never emulate his fits in a non-arctic climate. I'm not even sure how he pulls them off in NY outside of November through January.

Don't get me wrong; aesthetically speaking, I think he makes great use of the material. But his typical looks don't strike me as remotely practical. (I realize practicality isn't the point in his line of work, but still....I'd be uncomfortale as hell in all those tweedy layers in 60+ degree weather).
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post #275 of 384
1/21/13 at 7:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imperator View Post

His look is basically Thom Browne+incongruous shoes (often workboots)+vintage-y, workwear fabrics+a dash of camo+(often) oversized sunglasses. See: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wbMhQaDyWKs/UNxx3CzA5_I/AAAAAAAAANk/Zmd8HwUSSKs/s1600/NickWooster_3.jpeg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_0FjPCtl8nPY/TJGVpd-f1qI/AAAAAAAAJ8c/FBVCli6kScg/s1600/day1Nick_backyardbill.jpg
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&sa=N&tbo=d&biw=1517&bih=741&tbm=isch&tbnid=jrDm1im1vpj-SM:&imgrefurl=http://www.soletopia.com/2013/01/nick-wooster-in-camo-blazer-split-toe-moc-boot/&docid=OAP7xZR3-K2uHM&imgurl=http://www.soletopia.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/nick-wooster-denim-shirt-camo-vest-camo-blazer-grey-tweed-pants-visvim-armiger-folk-boots.jpg&w=580&h=1090&ei=S5H8UPiyN7S30QGNvYBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1160&vpy=149&dur=511&hovh=307&hovw=164&tx=105&ty=141&sig=104798182339956374567&page=2&tbnh=138&tbnw=81&start=36&ndsp=46&ved=1t:429,r:43,s:0,i:219
http://marshallmatlock.com/wp-content/gallery/2011-07-12-pic-book/thumbs/thumbs_nick%20wooster%20military%20shirt,%20the%20always%20gentleman.jpg
http://www.menswearstyle.co.uk/content/blogs/blog_ln_160.jpg
He throws together a lot of menswear trends from the last 5 years, but not, in my admittedly subjective opinion, successfully. He's a product of his milieu, but he never transcends it. He's superficially transgressive, but that doesn't make him interesting or stylish.
Just my opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I wouldn't call him innovative, but I find his execution pretty impeccable. I'm not sure that I'd even call his look mildly trangressive. But, while I never wear camo, after seeing a few pictures of him with odd jackets and camo pants, I've been caught thinking, "maybe I'll try my old milsurp pants with that jacket." I really do wish that he'd switch up his silhouette, but I think that his being so short irl would make wearing baggier clothing a not so wise decision.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Might be worth noting that what you consider a #menswear trend is a #menswear trend (partly) because of Nick Wooster. Whether you care for the particular look is one thing, but it's not like he took his look from Tumblr. Rather, it's the other way around.

i think fok and dieworkwear pretty much summed up what i wanted to say. additionally, while the links you posted were not all from his best, they were just random links. i google imaged his name and pretty much all the ones linked were scattered in there. along with plenty of others that were great.

if you image search pretty much anyone who is in fashions public eye, you can find looks that may not be top notch.

either way, i know his look is not for everyone, but to objectively say "his sense of style is dreadful," while quoting this style gem, "Are you kidding? His tie is sticking out the bottom of his waistcoat !" is a bit much.
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post #276 of 384
1/21/13 at 9:26am

This thread's taken some twists and turns since the last time I read it.

 

I think Wooster's got a moderately interesting sense of style, but there's almost always one thing about his look that makes me go "meh". For example, I like the plaid suit, but think it would flatter him more with a little more jacket length and either pleated trousers, or a little more room in the flat fronts. It would keep the same overall style/look but work with his build a bit better. Finally, and this may be entirely incorrect, but my gut instinct is that he, perhaps more than many, rather enjoys his position as a frequently-photographed character/inspiration in the #menswear world, and plays up to this. How much of that playing up is wry self-aware humour and how much is serious, I've no idea, but I rather hope it's the former.

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post #277 of 384
1/21/13 at 9:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post



either way, i know his look is not for everyone, but to objectively say "his sense of style is dreadful," while quoting this style gem, "Are you kidding? His tie is sticking out the bottom of his waistcoat !" is a bit much.

Fair enough. My initial response was a bit flippant.
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post #278 of 384
1/21/13 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imperator View Post

Fair enough. My initial response was a bit flippant.

fair indeed, it was nice having an adult convo with someone, without anyone resorting to stupidity. i appreciate your point of view, and that you took the time to explain what you meant.

cheers.gif
--
HF - i get the vibe that it is the former.
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post #279 of 384
1/21/13 at 3:00pm

Here are a few of the shots I took while at Pitti. I could go on forever about what an amazing time I had there, but I'm sure no-one wants to hear about that. There aren't so many (detailed) pictures because I asked at most of the booths if I could take pictures, some told me to get lost, some people said yes. I found that probably half the brands don't want their collections posted online, for example, Ducal, Drake's and Cucinelli.

 

Also, my picture taking was curtailed when I tried to take a few snaps of Silvano Lattanzi's booth without permission, the lady at the booth literally jumped out of her chair to attack me and called security.. After that I stuck to pictures of collections that were for personal use, i.e. brands I placed an order with and wanted to remember exactly what I got.

 

One thing that really struck me was the Asian presence there, I spotted more than a few booths with, what I'm guessing, were translators for their Asian customers.. I hope it's just not a passing phase as I'm sure the sartorial world has begun to rely on their cash!

 


Entrance to Pitti


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Albert Thurston

 

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Anderson's Parma

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Mr. Sozzi (Calze)

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Sozzi Knitted Ties


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Ludwig Reiter Lamdskin Lined Shoe!!

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Bresciani


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Gelato, anyone?


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Car Shoe - Awesome booth!


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Isaia

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Shoeshine @ Harry's of London - I spoke with one of the people there and was amazed how high quality their shoes actually are.


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New Silk Lined Gloves from Merola... Coming Next Winter To Exquisite Trimmings!


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Mr. G Ceramic Cufflinks... Never Seen Anything Like This Before!


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Vintage Fabrics from Petronius - They didn't speak even one word of English!

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Sciamat

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Some of My Favorites from Zonkey Boot - Did You Know They Used To Own St. Crispins?
 

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Carmina Shoemaker

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Michael Hill

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End of Day One!!

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Floor Plan


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Gallo

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Outside of Pitti I arranged a meeting Antonio Muro tie makers, we met at Leonardo Bugelli's atelier about a 20 minute walk from the Fortezza. Truly amazing people and very dedicated to their craft, I can't speak highly enough about them, in the hour and a half we spent to together I was privileged to glean knowledge from some real sartorial celebrities. (From left to right, Rafaelle Muro, Leonardo Buggeli, Gennaro Muro)


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Some funny shaped pasta I saw at the airport!

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Pitti Gents (Click to show)

 

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post #280 of 384
1/21/13 at 3:28pm
awesome pics, and info, dave. thank for sharing. very cool. every time i see the isaia stuff my heart drops. i love their stuff.
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post #281 of 384
1/21/13 at 4:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by davesmith View Post

I found that probably half the brands don't want their collections posted online, for example, Ducal, Drake's and Cucinelli.

 

I read "Ducal" and think of the now-defunct, very middle-class (but very solid & practical for all that) furniture brand that used to be popular in the UK many moons ago. Either that or the rather more irredeemably chintzy Crown Ducal china patterns.

 

What fresh Ducal is this? :)

 

(thanks for all the great snaps, by the way!)

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post #282 of 384
1/21/13 at 7:05pm
That was such a fun set of photos. Thank you for taking and sharing them!

I'm surprised that Drakes et al. don't want their collection photographed and posted online. Why is that? Do they want to announce/promote the designs themselves, later?
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post #283 of 384
1/21/13 at 7:11pm
they probably want control over presentation. when, where, how and how much of their new lines will appear, and so on. it is understandable imo. not every brand is like that, but i can respect it.
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post #284 of 384
1/21/13 at 8:11pm
This is an awesome threak.
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post #285 of 384
1/21/13 at 9:56pm
Great photos....thanks for posting!
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