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Pitti Uomo 83: Classic Menswear Edition - Page 13

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post #181 of 384

1/16/13 at 3:32am

Miekka

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I'm so bummed that I missed Pitti this time around.

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post #182 of 384

1/16/13 at 9:02am

pocketsquareguy

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Miekka

I'm so bummed that I missed Pitti this time around.

Yes, but there is still time to order the official hat of the event

post #183 of 384

1/16/13 at 11:48am

A.J.V

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Quote:

Originally Posted by LA Guy

gdl was there, but he's wrong about that. The Isaia guys have an all Isaia dresscode, usually with the Isaia tree logo on their lapel. Also, Aygesh is a darker skinned guy.

Anyway, this is not Aygesh:

This is Aygesh:

Agyesh in both pics. 1st and 3rd day (IIRC).

post #184 of 384

1/16/13 at 12:20pm

A.J.V

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Some of the pics I took during the week...

Tombolini:

Drake's

Rosi&Ghezzi

Lubiam:

Sciamat:

Giacometti Marmolada:

Eleventy:

More pics coming (and also already to been seen through the sig)

post #185 of 384

1/16/13 at 12:40pm

sridhar3

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Quote:

Originally Posted by A.J.V

Lubiam:

post #186 of 384

1/16/13 at 12:52pm

in stitches
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ajv, fantastic pics. thanks for sharing. i look forward to seeing more.

post #187 of 384

1/16/13 at 1:33pm

StockwellDay

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Quote:

Originally Posted by A.J.V

Some of the pics I took during the week...

Really great pics...

(to SF at large) this guy has a great Tumblr.

post #188 of 384

1/16/13 at 2:00pm

Zeppelin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by FlaneurNYC

The origin of the street looks at this year's Pitti?

http://coolechicstyletodressitalian.blogspot.com/2010/11/luomo-vogues-robert-rabensteiner.html

The look of the guy on the left says basically everything ...

Someone could insert a thinking bubble ... patch[1].gif

post #189 of 384

1/16/13 at 2:25pm

Hampton

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Where could the hats even be bought, what website? Wanna check out the price :D

post #190 of 384

1/16/13 at 2:39pm

Miekka

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Horrible hats!!

post #191 of 384

1/16/13 at 3:22pm

Sam Hober

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerC

The problem with the artisanal concept in an Internet world is that it is self-defeating. Let's say I run a one-person, bespoke shoe operation somewhere in Central Europe. Someone buys a pair of my shoes, posts them on SF. Everyone goes, "where can I kop", and within no time, my order ledger is more than full. Now, I've got a choice: I either up prices to reduce the demand, or hire another person to increase my production. In the short run, however, that will cost me in productivity, as I need to train this person, etc. etc. Also, it increases my overhead as I need to start paying someone else a salary, so that will also result in a price increase. Similar things happened to the brands and producers that got picked up by SF and other websites, such as Drakes, Liverano, WW Chan, Crockett & Jones, etc. Sometimes, the next step is a corporate takeover, as the business is now so profitable that it becomes a clever investment. There are two ways to stay ahead of the curve: purchase from new artisans when they are discovered and stay with artisans that give you "old customer prices". Another thing you could think of is localizing your strategy. In the UK, for example, there's an increasing number of traveling tailors who provide their services at the fraction of Savile Row cost. There are great tiemakers popping up everywhere on the Internet. I have a friend who's become his own shirtmaker. In other words, you're not IN traffic, you ARE traffic.

Roger,

You are correct, but there are more variables.

You can keep prices stable and simply have a longer wait time - not a good solution but it allows a small operation with no price increases.

You give up sleep and days off to keep prices stable and wait times reasonable.

In the long run training takes a lot of investment/time but is the best answer.

We use all the above.

Much more expensive in terms of time and investment is vertical integration - for a tie maker growing your own mulberry and silk worms, reeling, dyeing, weaving and printing in house and so on.

Vertical integration is our long term goal for around 90% of what we do.

Some Italian companies do well with weaving fabrics and making clothes - Kiton I think has a very nice tailoring school - which is wonderful both for their business and the future of clothes.

post #192 of 384

1/16/13 at 4:59pm