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post #46 of 65
Time for a Review and a Preview: Pitti 83: What’s Coming for FW13

It was great to work with the SF Pitti team covering the shows and the collections in January. Over the next few months, I’ll be highlighting a number of these that you’ll see in stores and online for FW13, updating about twice a week. I thought I'd start with a review of the shows as a whole, along with a preview of some of the highlights I'll cover:

My vibe of the season: Charles Dickens meets Pitti Uomo: it was the best of shows; it was the worst of shows. As a customer, there was a lot I wanted to buy; from a fashion point of view, I doubt this season will make it into the history books. There were some pleasant surprises from brands I’ve never heard of (like the French brand La Comedie Humaine); there were some disappointments from some major players, some that looked boring from a distance ended up being wonderful when you reached out and touched them (including some great wool blazers from Barena Venezia, see below).


Overall take: I wasn’t the only one feeling a more conservative vibe this season: it wasn’t Spring 2005, a season to push the envelope with patterns, paints, and art; nor was this Autumn 2006, a season to break the bank with furs, exotic leathers, and couture details. These collections were austere in the sense of the European economy: sometimes less innovative fabric, sometimes a corner cut to save on production, or sometimes a trip back to the archives for a safe and standard staple. Buyers were mixed, too: some lamented the quality of fabric, others cost increases, others happy that designers were forced to focus on priorities. Thus, it was a paradoxical season: the designers seemed unsure exactly where things over the next year will go, a sense that brought out their best and their worst.

I found the best of the lot, though, and will be sharing some surprises here through the spring in a series of articles. Here’s a preview of what you’ll see:

Manbags: Some great accessories at all pricepoints. Want Les Essentials, a brand we know well on the forum, introduces some great new colors (forest green and plum) along with some bright seasonal fabrics and linings to its staple collection. Kozo Ohba, Graae, and Serapian expand their family-owned brands, which have been in operation in their native countries for decades, onto the world scene with premium leather briefcases, portfolios, and travel bags. Daniel & Bob, a brand well-known in Europe and Japan, expands its line to more casual bags, with a new soft calf that (or so its owner tells me!) is farmed from the same mill where Hermes gets in nappa leather.

(Daniel & Bob nappa leather shoulder bag)

Shoes: As usual, great stuff coming out of Japan. A small artisanal maker, Eichi Katsukawa (after working for Paul Harnden), expands his line, and Quilp by Masao Morishita, collaborates with Tricker’s to produce shoes that are one part English tradition and one part Harajuku pop. Yuketen, another forum favorite, goes back to the drawing board with new, more labor intensive, construction on its shoes, ensuring that not only will they look great, but they’ll be ready to pass onto your grandchildren when you can no longer put them on.

QuilpXTrickers

Menswear: Barena Venezia was a standout for me; from a distance it looked like safe, solid casual wear, while up close the wonderful wools and cottons required you to touch them and put them on in order to see why they’d be a must buy. A(LeFrude)E, Masaki Kyoko Homme, and Spellbound by Simplicity continue the tradition of quirky Japanese sportswear, adding some local influences from northern and western japan in fabrics and dyes. Finally, a new French brand, La Comedie Humaine, takes influence from 19th century novelist Balzac to create collections one part Viktor & Rolf, one part old-school YSL, and one part Issey Miyake.

(A(LeFrude)E jacket)

There are also some great fragrance companies (Lorenzo Villoresi and Profumi Del Forte), and some visits with other forum favorites (Buttero, Mismo). There may also be the story of how I nearly got kicked out of the Santa Maria Novella flagship by an angry Swiss sales associate. Stay tuned!
post #47 of 65

Ew...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc View Post

post #48 of 65
Really looking forward to your posts, Rach.
post #49 of 65
Thread Starter 


These look a little like what I'd expect from a Tim Burton film of a Dicken's book. I can easily see this worn with a Paul Harnden jacket to good effect.
post #50 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

These look a little like what I'd expect from a Tim Burton film of a Dicken's book. I can easily see this worn with a Paul Harnden jacket to good effect.

+1. Pics of shoes isolated and not on a person's feet rarely do them justice. Jil's famous Frankenstein Lattanzis are an example... on their own they were hideous, but paired with the right outfit and they were a lot of fun. Likewise with these, they had a lot of small handmade quirks to them, in addition to a very lovely dark, dark navy. In my article I"ll post a pic of the owner, Masao, who wears outfits that look perfect with the shoes. As well, while the shoes may not be one's I'd buy for myself, on the other hand the reason I chose them (or the brand) is because they were very subtle, but pulled all the right stops... a brand with an aesthetic that was both visceral and cerebral (Quilp and references to Dickens), quality (Tricker's with a lot of tweaks and hand-done detailing in the leathers done by him and his crew in Tokyo), simplicity (they aren't really very costumish), and a distinctly Japanese vibe. The owner as well reminded me of the interviews I read with/about Yohji... he's not full of gimmicks or trying to talk your head off with all the technical details... he has a vision and an idea and just sort of does it. In this economy and with the small scale of production, it's a tough model, but I hope the best for him.

I think that readers will see my choices for articles/pieces were not simply about "instakops," but more about the entire idea of a brand or a product. If I liked the designer/owner, how he/she talked about his/her craft, and the way they approached making wearable, interesting things, I tended to like what I saw... whether or not I'd buy it for myself. Sort of like how given my size/proportions/etc. I can't actually wear Yohji, Damir Doma, etc. and yet I can appreciate and respect what these brands are trying to say. Nevertheless, given that these aren't simply pieces of art but things we want to buy and wear, definitely a part of my criteria was how one might actually buy these pieces and whether they'd be worth our $$$. Stay tuned for another update Thursday!
post #51 of 65
Sorry guys, shoes are terrible.
post #52 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post

Sorry guys, shoes are terrible.

You should bring your wealth of knowledge and insightful analysis to this thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/333582/on-why-we-like-modernist-chairs-and-houses-but-classical-clothes/0_50
post #53 of 65
i stay in the streetwear octagon.
post #54 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post

i stay in the streetwear octagon.

I think that you are the Josh Koscheck of the Streetwear Octagon.
post #55 of 65
Why, is he the greatest who's ever lived?
post #56 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post

Why, is he the greatest who's ever lived?

He is a tough guy but talks a bigger game and , and always loses the title fight to the Canadian guy with the shaved head. Sound familiar now?
post #57 of 65
No idea, can't relate son.
post #58 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post

No idea, can't relate nephew.

ftfy laugh.gif
post #59 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet View Post

Sorry guys, shoes are terrible.

Maybe wait until the article comes out?

For the most part, I'll post them Sunday/Thursday without much additional commentary to let the discussion happen as it will. BUT, for my own sanity, I'd like to request that members take the time to provide some reasons, debate, discussion, etc. that can be built upon to create a useful thread.

eg. What's wrong with it? What don't you like? What would you do differently, or what could the designer do differently to make it something you'd like (or is it simply something you'd NEVER like?) Just random 5-word shots aren't helpful and do little to expand the debate/styles.

Anyway, see you Thursday.
post #60 of 65
The shoes just aren't my style however I'll keep an open mind. I'm more interested in hearing about you getting kicked out of the Santa Maria Novella flagship by an angry Swiss sales associate. fight[1].gif
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