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Getting new custom suit: leisure and business

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Morning Gents,

As a gift some colleagues pitched in and agreed to fund a custom suit for me. I would appreciate input regarding the cut and color. I currently own a midnight blue suit which is my formal wear. This new suit would be for both work functions (I'm an equity trader in NYC) and for the occasional night out.

For reference I'm 5'10", caucasion, 170 lbs (slight gut) but athletic and currently exercising to get in better shape.

Here's what I was thinking:

Color
Dark charcoal

Cut
Neopolitan

Would sincerely appreciate your opinions, guidance, or links to cuts you think would work.

Thank you,

Dave
post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 
Was considering

http://www.escapement.uk.com/huntsman-11-savile-row-london.html

or

http://www.lovesuits.com/fashion-suits/aldridge-two-button-suit-jacket-with-center-vent-in-italian-wool-f-s-000091.html (with wider lapels)
post #3 of 10

First and foremost, congratulations on being recognized by your peers and having their support.  With you stating that you already have a fabulous blue, I think your choice of a charcoal is excellent.  Could you expound a bit in terms of what it is you're looking for when you say a "Neopolitan" cut?  I'm assuming that is something slim through the body, but I'm not familiar with the term.  Again, congrats to you, look forward to your response.

post #4 of 10
My advice is to research this and other fora for examples of Neopolitan style.
Huntsman is the antithesis of Neapolitan tailoring. Your second example
is a trendy suit with a short jacket and narrow lapels, which will look dated
very soon. I suggest you check out postings on "Mina" and Rubinacci in
SF. Better yet, there is a Neapolitan tailor who has a New York location.
I've never actually seen his work , but it may be worthwhile visiting:

http://belluccinapoli.com/
post #5 of 10
delete
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

My advice is to research this and other fora for examples of Neopolitan style.
Huntsman is the antithesis of Neapolitan tailoring. Your second example
is a trendy suit with a short jacket and narrow lapels, which will look dated
very soon. I suggest you check out postings on "Mina" and Rubinacci in
SF. Better yet, there is a Neapolitan tailor who has a New York location.
I've never actually seen his work , but it may be worthwhile visiting:
http://belluccinapoli.com/

Comrade, thank you for the website and the idea. I've been checking our the gallery on Bellucinapoli.com this morning. There's definitely some interesting pieces. I appreciate how the last button on the sleeves remains open, unless I'm not seeing it properly. Is there a specific reason for this? Is it for when you wear french cuff shirts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by GentryLtd View Post

First and foremost, congratulations on being recognized by your peers and having their support.  With you stating that you already have a fabulous blue, I think your choice of a charcoal is excellent.  Could you expound a bit in terms of what it is you're looking for when you say a "Neopolitan" cut?  I'm assuming that is something slim through the body, but I'm not familiar with the term.  Again, congrats to you, look forward to your response.

Thanks GentryLtd, when I said neopolitan I was simply regurgitating what a much more fashion-inclined friend has told me to look for. What I picture my suit as being is a charcoal grey, two-button, double vent, with the last button in each sleeve being usable. I don't want obnoxiously large lapels but I also appreciate comrade's input that the thin lapels are simply not a classic style and therefore wouldn't be a worthwhile endeavour.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Due to the fact that this suit is being purchased on my behalf as a gift, I'm not entirely sure of the latitude I can express with optionality. That being said I did some digging around SF and here's where I've arrived.

Overall
x. Charcoal grey color
x. 10-12oz material

Coat
x. One functional sleeve button on each side
x. Jetted flap pockets
x. Two vents
x. Two-button style
x. Medium sized lapel (however this equates when I'm there)

Pants
x. Zip fly
x. No cuff / no pleat
x. Belt use, not waist-adjust

Thoughts?

Also I will absolutely post images once it's done. After all you've helped me with the process so you deserve to see the final product.
post #8 of 10
Your choices are fine for the most part, however, if you're getting a bespoke suit, either get all the sleeve buttons functional or not at all. The only reason people leave a button undone is to show-off their garment as something out of the ordinary. Opinions are mixed about this practice (I personally don't favor it - leaving buttons undone, that is). If you stay in fairly good shape, a Neapolitan cut is a good choice, but I suggest you try different styles and find something you like instead of just picking up chatter from the internet about what you should or should not choose. Not everyone gets a chance to have a custom suit made for them. Might as well make it your own and not somebody else's idea of the perfect suit.
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks Mute, I'll take your advice and do all the buttons as well as make it a game time decision on cut, etc. Thanks to everyone for your help.
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Gents, got the suit and two custom shirts... will post pictures this weekend. Mute, all the buttons are functional.
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