Manton, I can't believe no one has called you on the carpet for that outrageous spread collar. Everyone knows that the POINT collar is the ONLY acceptable collar for conservative business dress. A spread collar is a sure sign of a fruity limey wannabe. You might as well be swishing around in a suit with waist suppression.
So not only can you not SEE, you can't even READ. "[N]ot too dashingly open, not too mafia-closed." Spread collars and point collars are both NOT CONSERVATIVE. The collar should be medium, in the middle, centrist, moderate, not too much of one, not too much of the other. Whoever told you that a point is conservative is full of $hit. Mob guys and mob poet laureates like Scorcese wear the point. Are they conservative? I DON'T THINK SO.