Originally Posted by brad-t
It doesn't really look like CCP, it looks like an amalgamation of a lot of others' ideas, CCP being just one piece in the pot
It's "best of Stylezeitgeist", is what it is. If there was an equivalent guy on Styleforum SWD, he'd start strong with a leather moto jacket, white tee, jeans, and white sneakers, follow up with a crispy button down plaid shirt with a blazer, flannels, and Alden-alikes, hit the accelerator with a soft knit and drapey jacket about which even jet would post "nice", paired with some loose, lux, trousers, and then finish up with a drapey black outfit in some wool/viscose material. Drapey white tee, of course.
The first four jackets look a lot like Julius, MA+, Rick Owens, CCP, in that order. There are other "influences", but those are the most obvious. People on Stylezeitgeist used to blast Odyn Vovk on a regular basis. I'm not sure why Zam would deserve any mercy.
Originally Posted by the shah
that everyone sees something different in it shows it's not really copying any one thing. comparing it to ccp makes no sense if you've seen ccp in person vs zam (haven't seen this fw13 yet) aside from obvious superficials
it has a military vibe to it as does every season because he used to be in military design which influences his work
calling it derivative is almost redundant as men's fashion by its very nature is derivative and secondary to a much larger, more profitable, and more marketed women's fashion.
but in the end i don't care much you do what you like wear what you want believe what you will his stuff is not for me though i still appreciate what he does as an independent little segment of a niche market of a derivative industry
From everything I've heard, Zam is a good guy. I've never met the guy personally, but I'll take that at face value. That doesn't give him a by though. Saying that everyone sees something different, that calling is derivative is redundant because men's fashion is derivative, which is a convenient fiction here, that it makes no sense to compare it to CCP of you haven't seen CCP in person vs. Zam, are just specious, throwaway arguments to disguise the fact that there were very few original ideas here, to be as charitable about it as one can be.
And sure, menswear is mostly derivative, but that's definitely not true of all designers, and definitely not true of designers who started off in and/or concentrated on menswear, or at least, really paid attention to it - Yohji Yamamoto, Giorgio Armani, Gianfranco Ferre, Massimo Osti, Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane - just to name the obvious ones in the past few decades.