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Menswear Fall-Winter 2013-14 (Mens Fashion Week - London, Milan, Paris) - Page 16

post #226 of 273
Payola is generally not that straightforward either. The average journalist or editor doesn't have any contact with advertisers. Doesn't mean this sort of stuff doesn't happen, but it's not that black-and-white (I say this from experience, by the way). It's a lot more subtle and tends to creep up when an advertiser pays for custom content or something like that. But it's rare to hear of an instance where an advertiser demands favorable treatment outright. Like Fok pointed out, it ends up being bad business.
post #227 of 273
The Aitor Throup stuff just looks completely insane.
post #228 of 273
Some Aitor pics from Paris (via BSR on SZ).











Everything looks remarkable. All impressions I have had from people who saw his clothing in Paris are unanimous that it was mindblowing. I MUST have the saxophone suit by any means necessary.

Really happy for him that this turned out to be everything he had promised it would be. Now, I wonder how long it will take until the fashion industry gets tired of him since he does not plan to work on producing new stuff every season, heh.

EDIT - I also find it interesting that he doesn't seem to slot neatly into the sort of vague concepts and themes that are generally trumpeted around for various collections. People talk about military influences and of course streetwear and then proceed to bandy about words like "post-apocalyptic" etc. but it just doesn't quite fit for me. He is definitely designing from a completely different conceptual space than almost anybody else designing at the moment. After the few years I have waited to see something, this was the highlight of the season for me.
post #229 of 273

I like that he used some super traditional fabrics. Is that Harris Tweed?

post #230 of 273
RE: Saint Laurent: some individual pieces (the shoes, red leopard printed on mohair and sequins) were strong, but the styling was terrible (did we really need to revisit the floor-grazing DH scarves?) Others (zippered black and white leather pants, the ermine coat) were downright Versace-esque in their absurdity. There was a mishmash of old DH, Gareth Pugh, and Balmain influences.

Still, in a season dominated by clean tailoring and prim collared shirts, there was something appealing about the ease of shilouette. Loose knits and untucked plaids over skinny pants and boots is a wearable street look, and could be a solid seller. Anything, really, would be better than the indifference that greeted most of Pilati's collections.
post #231 of 273
The skulls and saxophone made me think of this



so maybe this is a sign that '13 is the year I dress like Laurie Anderson.


Also why isn't there Hideo Kojima x Aitor Throup?
Edited by A Fellow Linguist - 1/21/13 at 7:07pm
post #232 of 273
Thread Starter 
I'm really curious how that first jacket with the built-in hat brim and sealed zips would look on me.
post #233 of 273
holy shit i didn't realize the saxophone transformed into a suit. what the fuck that's awesome
post #234 of 273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

I like that he used some super traditional fabrics. Is that Harris Tweed?

According to someone on SZ it is some kind of herringbone wool used on the Mongolian rider coat. Not sure what kind of fabric he used for the sax suit though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brad-t View Post

holy shit i didn't realize the saxophone transformed into a suit. what the fuck that's awesome

Ah, it is not the whole suit that the saxophone transforms into, just the rigid "scarf" around the shoulders and at the sides I believe. He released some object guides for the New Orleans collection that the sax suit archetype was initially created for. Of course these are all prototypes and the design looks to have been refined somewhat, but illustrates the concept perfectly -




The second image is for the trumpet suit, but same idea. The idea is that during the hurricane that hit the entire marching band all had ways to protect their instruments by sacrificing their own protection - the armored scarves.

Suit glove detail -

I assume this is the sax suit and not the trumpet one being worn here without the protection -


Sousaphone suit with full protection -
post #235 of 273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Everything looks remarkable. All impressions I have had from people who saw his clothing in Paris are unanimous that it was mindblowing. I MUST have the saxophone suit by any means necessary.
 

 

Christopher at DSM London will probably be able to get it for you, if anybody can (0).  PM me if you want his contact info.

 

I agree with you completely that he's designing in a totally different conceptual space.  It's nice to have something so radical that is at the same time (relatively) easy to digest and interpret

post #236 of 273
ZAM BARRETT FW 2013/14













post #237 of 273
cool I like CCP too
post #238 of 273

^ lol8[1].gif

post #239 of 273

\informationminister{All our designs}{Are completely original}

post #240 of 273

I really want to slap Zam across the face and then as he starts crying tenderly embrace him and ensure him that he is strong and beautiful and that he will get through this.

 

Though I think I want to do that to everyone on SZ.

 

Do like the high neck leather in the eighth(?) pic. Though that might just be my weakness to high neck leathers.

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