Menswear Fall-Winter 2013-14 (Mens Fashion Week - London, Milan, Paris) - Page 16
Everything looks remarkable. All impressions I have had from people who saw his clothing in Paris are unanimous that it was mindblowing. I MUST have the saxophone suit by any means necessary.
Really happy for him that this turned out to be everything he had promised it would be. Now, I wonder how long it will take until the fashion industry gets tired of him since he does not plan to work on producing new stuff every season, heh.
EDIT - I also find it interesting that he doesn't seem to slot neatly into the sort of vague concepts and themes that are generally trumpeted around for various collections. People talk about military influences and of course streetwear and then proceed to bandy about words like "post-apocalyptic" etc. but it just doesn't quite fit for me. He is definitely designing from a completely different conceptual space than almost anybody else designing at the moment. After the few years I have waited to see something, this was the highlight of the season for me.
Still, in a season dominated by clean tailoring and prim collared shirts, there was something appealing about the ease of shilouette. Loose knits and untucked plaids over skinny pants and boots is a wearable street look, and could be a solid seller. Anything, really, would be better than the indifference that greeted most of Pilati's collections.
According to someone on SZ it is some kind of herringbone wool used on the Mongolian rider coat. Not sure what kind of fabric he used for the sax suit though.
Ah, it is not the whole suit that the saxophone transforms into, just the rigid "scarf" around the shoulders and at the sides I believe. He released some object guides for the New Orleans collection that the sax suit archetype was initially created for. Of course these are all prototypes and the design looks to have been refined somewhat, but illustrates the concept perfectly -
The second image is for the trumpet suit, but same idea. The idea is that during the hurricane that hit the entire marching band all had ways to protect their instruments by sacrificing their own protection - the armored scarves.
Suit glove detail -
I assume this is the sax suit and not the trumpet one being worn here without the protection -
Sousaphone suit with full protection -
Christopher at DSM London will probably be able to get it for you, if anybody can (0). PM me if you want his contact info.
I agree with you completely that he's designing in a totally different conceptual space. It's nice to have something so radical that is at the same time (relatively) easy to digest and interpret
I really want to slap Zam across the face and then as he starts crying tenderly embrace him and ensure him that he is strong and beautiful and that he will get through this.
Though I think I want to do that to everyone on SZ.
Do like the high neck leather in the eighth(?) pic. Though that might just be my weakness to high neck leathers.