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Relation shoulder width <> yoke width in a shirt

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hello!

I'd like to know if there is a relation between the shoulder width and the yoke width in a shirt.

For example my shoulder width, measured from the edge of the collar band to the shoulder, is 14cm.
Could I now determine the yoke width I need from this measurement?
Edited by Louis XIV - 1/5/13 at 3:02am
post #2 of 7

I guess you'd need other measurements, like collar size and/or chest circumference...

 

My tailor doesn't measure the point-to-point for my jackets, just shoulder width (measured from collar felt) and half chest.

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
All my collars measure 37.5cm and feel perfect.
Current shirts have a chest circumference of 98 to 100cm, but I am restricted in movement.
To solve this problem I want to increase the necessary measurements.
I thought of increasing the chest circumference to 103cm and maybe the yoke, but as my shoulder width won't change I am uncertain.
The yoke of my currenct shirts, measured at the place where the yoke is mounted to the back of the shirt, is 41cm.
post #4 of 7

The yoke sits mostly at the top of your shoulders, so I don't think increasing its size will allow for greater freedom of movement. You probably need more material across the back. Have you considered adding side pleats?

post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
I have posted in the Tailors Thread and was adviced to do so by OTCtailor.
While I see why I am advised to do so, I have to admit that I like my shirts to be as clean as possible, no darts, no pleats, french front.
Thus I would prefer to solve the problem without adding pleats.
Also I read a lot of articels on shirts by Mr. Kabbaz and he is of the opinion a well constructed shirt won't need pleats.

To be honest, I am afraid my current MTM tailor might be really poor at taking measurements.
If the next shirt, with all the changes he advised me to do to a previous one, turns out to be as poor a fit, I won't accept it, ask my money back and won't return.
As a student it annoys me to spend hundreds of euros for MTM shirts which do not come out to my satisfaction, especially as I stressed the fact I would like a slim shirt but without the will to trade any of it's slimness for restriction in everyday movement like sitting at a table, driving a car or picking something up the ground.
post #6 of 7
shirtmakers have different yoke patterns.
so, though there should be a correlation..
it is hard to determine with seeing the pattern out flat
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thank you Carl!
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