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Black Lapel or Proper Suit? - Page 3

post #31 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacking jacket View Post

Very interesting, in the UK Moss do a bespoke service and have the garment made in China and undercut all competitors. I had a shirt made by them and it wasn't perfect by any means but it wasn't bad for the price.

Do ProperSuit do something similar, or are they cutting price by offering a limited range of fabric?

 

They are made in China, but they certainly don't have a limited range of fabric - it does seem to be pretty wide; I've had a chance to check out their sample books twice now. If you've seen the sample book photos Kent Wang has posted recently, they look pretty similar. 

 

Although....they sent out an announcement of their new spring & summer fabric options by email 6 weeks ago, but with no details. When I asked for info about what fabrics they were carrying, etc... I got a rather odd reply:

 

 

Quote:
We had the Silentist stop by and he took some photos. We have around 500 new fabrics that we are very excited about. We don't bother doing big photo spreads because we only source so much that guys get mad if what they see on-line isn't still in stock. That may sound funny, but we are really small and only source so little. 

 

So, basically your only option is to book an appointment and see them in person. Certainly not an unusual business model, but a bit disappointing if you want to be able to re-order easily without a once-a-month appointment. 

 

I'm unfortunately still waiting for the remake on my jacket - for the suit I ordered in December. 

post #32 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by katabatic View Post

Although....they sent out an announcement of their new spring & summer fabric options by email 6 weeks ago, but with no details. When I asked for info about what fabrics they were carrying, etc... I got a rather odd reply:

So, basically your only option is to book an appointment and see them in person. Certainly not an unusual business model, but a bit disappointing if you want to be able to re-order easily without a once-a-month appointment. 

I'm unfortunately still waiting for the remake on my jacket - for the suit I ordered in December. 


Selecting fabric at an appointment is how the majority of tailors and MTM operations work around the world . Supplies of quality fabrics come and go and are often very limited. Especially for many of the non-standard types.

You can't fault any company, Proper Suit included, for having you select fabric in-person at the time of order and establishing that as their policy.
post #33 of 37

I wasn't clear enough -- I didn't mean to fault them for that model; more my own impatience :). That's one reason I'm looking forward to checking out Beckett & Robb this week - having a location in the same city I live in is pretty attractive. 

post #34 of 37

Sorry to jump in on an older reply, but I have your same issue with the lapels NEVER laying flat, regardless of size.

 

In my case a tailor finally diagnosed it as a combination of 1- Slightly forward posture (also makes suits longer in the front) 2. larger chest relative to shoulder width. (overall circumference vs chest circumference is 3 inches less than ideal). 3. larger curve between my neck and my middle back than most guys have.

 

He was able to shorten the collar (removing the back of the collar and shortening it from gorge to gorge), let out the center back about a half inch, and back-stitched the lapel. Now perfectly flat.

 

I had an OTR Austin Reed, ordered from HSM ebay store for $100 that had the issue plus stood off my shirt collar an inch. About $90 in alterations later, the jacket fits really well and lays properly.  I followed that up with a JAB cashmere blazer and a Paul Fredrick camel hair jacket. Both fixed.

 

I also ordered two M2M suits with very exact measurements (2 different companies) that were done by my tailor. both jackets didn't fit properly. I took photos and sent them back in along with extra measurements (why don't these people ask for half-shoulder distance? and how about left sleeve AND right sleeve?) and one came in right and the other was still wrong. I spent $50 on alterations and now its right. I only tell you this to say that unless you are extremely specific in what you tell them, it won't be right.

 

Proper Suit, Hilburn and some other do the measurements, and if it isn't right, they fix it until it is. I was to the point of flying to NYC to have a suit made by Mr. Ned and then use the measurements of that suit as a template for ordering. Still thinking about that if my attempts with Hilburn and Tom James don't give me the right fit, 1st time.

 

I should say, I own 3-4 suits every size from 50 to 42. I've been at the low size now for 18 months and am confident enough to replace all my suits with new ones and fit is my primary issue. I want minimum half-canvass, decent fabric (don't care if it is italian, indian or chinese if it is a good fabric), I don't care if it is machine stitched or hand stitched, though I'm open to the discussion if someone can should me the fit difference. So I'm buying 7 suits and 5 jackets/ blazers. Though I've had 2 suits made and a third altered to fit, only one of those would I wear to a business meeting. I'll wear the others to work, church etc.

 

Another thing I've done in the last month is to buy stuff on ebay. I have a samuelsohn, tom james, canali, brioni, barbera, zegna, burberry, hickey freeman suits/ jackets that I've ordered for CHEAP. (samuelsohn, barbera and burberry were only $30 plus shipping, canali was 60, brioni was 117). It occured to me that I could read about all these suits and still wouldn't understand the quality discussion until I had the actual clothes in hand. The samuelsohn jacket was a perfect fit. I've never had that happen. Next best was canali. Zegna not a good fit. everything else as average. of all these suits, I plan to re-sell the zegna and the hickey freemans and the tom james. the barbera jacket and the canali and the brioni are part of the new wardrobe. My wife thinks I've lost my mind, but when you're 55 and never had a great suit (ive had nice/decent, with fit compromises), Now I have a chance to have several. I want to spend as little on that as I can.

 

Now I know there are OTR options, albeit somewhat expensive that will work for me.

 

Best advice I got? Find a tailor and not an "alterations" guy.

 

jb

 

 

------------

Hey, if I was thinner, taller and better looking, I wouldn't have to spend so much on clothes.

post #35 of 37
Anyone from Styleforum in the Chicago area is invited to attend the launch party of the Proper Suit HQ in Chicago on Thursday May 19. They ask you to RSVP.


post #36 of 37

I received my first suit from Proper Suit about a week ago and thought I'd post some pictures. Overall, I'm very happy with it, although I will make a few adjustments for my next one. I'm 6'2", 160 lbs with broad shoulders and am extremely thin through the body. McGregor fitted me and he was careful not to make it too close-fitting through the waist, so as not to make me look too skinny. I think he did a very good job on this. It also fits very well through the shoulders and neck. They are pretty meticulous about getting the collar to roll nicely around your shirt collar/neck. I think on my next one, I would move the arm holes up slightly and make it a little closer-fitting in the chest and slightly taper the sleeves in the bicep and forearm. The trousers will likely need a few alterations. The waist will need to be taken in slightly and the pants might be let down slightly. On my next one, I would taper the leg slightly throughout and bring the leg opening to 7.5" (it currently measures just over 8"). Some nice details on the trousers include a rubber strip sewn into the waistband to keep your shirt tucked in and some little strips that are sewn on the inside of the hems which give them a little extra weight to help the drape and also help keep the crease.

 

Jacket details:

  • Basic solid navy super 120s from the $750 range
  • Two button (dark horn buttons)
  • Medium width lapels with pick stitching
  • Slim European business cut
  • Monogrammed camel suede undercollar

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #37 of 37
Hey Chicago....come on out to the Proper Suit event.


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