Originally Posted by ForeverSkinny
Total noob here... Been trolling SF for some time, but due to $$$/laziness, I've been wearing ill fitting suits, poorly done MTM shirts, and just barely getting by. Now that all has to change and I'm hoping SF can help me out.
About me: 26, 5'5", 28" waist, 125lb and super thin, short arms (~29"-30")... OTR suits & shirts are basically impossible for me. I'm young, like to wear colorful socks, slim fit pants, skinny ties, friends think I know a lot about fashion when really I'm a beginner...
Anyways, I'm a groomsman at a black tie wedding (upper class NYC, everyone will be well dressed) in a few months and in 7 days I will be in Hong Kong for 2.5 weeks. Due to an insane travelling schedule, this is basically my only chance to get something made in time for the wedding. Added bonus if this same tux could work for my wedding some day.
So, I'm considering getting a bespoke tuxedo made while in HK and SF seems to recommend W.W.Chan. Should I visit someone else in HK (A Man Hing Cheong, Ascot Chang, Jantzen)?
I need so much help filling in the blanks / mistakes below. Probably not good to walk into my tailoring appointment not knowing what I'm talking about.
Color: Black (groom is telling me black only so I think midnight blue is out of the question)
Fabric: ??? (Not a clue, HELP!)
Lapel: Peak (how small can I make it? As I said, I'm thin), GrosGrain finish, With a
Jacket Type: One Botton
Sleeve Length: Show 1/2" French Cuff
Sleeves: tapered / slim
Vents: Double Vent
Pockets: double besom sewn shut, GrosGrain twill weave
Fit: Super Slim Fit
GrosGrain twill weave down the sides
No Cuffs, Hemmed with minimal Break
Tapered, Urban Slim Fit
Shirt (should I get this made at the same tailor or somewhere else?)
Placket: hidden (should I get a 4-button removable placket as well?)
Collar: Spread, Turndown
Fit: Super Slim Fit
Bow Tie: Self Tie, Black GrosGrain (is this ok? http://www.thetiebar.com/order_page_bowties.asp?pn=B1228 )
Cummerbund / Waistcoat / Vest: Not sure where else to get a Cummerbund except with the tailor (will they make this?) Should I instead opt for a vest or waistcoat?
I know there are tons of details I'm missing. I just really want this all to turn out well as this is a significant amount of money for me. I'm really hoping you guys can help me fill in the missing blanks and stuff I haven't even thought of.
-Buttons on Pants?
-Type of Buttons for jacket / shirt / pants?
-Placement for embroidering of initials on Shirt / Jacket, if at all?
Do not wear a pre-tied bow tie. Get one of these, for an inexpensive option:
http://www.clermontdirect.com/luxury-black-silk-self-p-119.html (I bought this one, and it does the job quite well)
http://www.clermontdirect.com/finest-barathea-silk-self-p-209.html (recommended, as you're going with grosgrain facings, so you want a textured bow tie)
Velvet is also an option, but I would clear that with the groom (and bride!) as it might draw a bit of attention.
Or contact these guys to see what they can do as a special order - their OTR bow ties are $45, so a special order would be pretty reasonable, too.
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of on-line tutorials for how to tie a bow tie. The Clermont ties come with instructions in the box. It is not very hard, to do, just a little tricky to learn - just requires a few practice goes. Here is one resource:
As you're doing grosgrain facings, and it will fit you, I don't think your tux will be mistaken for a rental, but Black Tie Guide (you have read it, right? http://www.blacktieguide.com) reccomends against facing the pockets. I believe the main argument is that it disrupts the unbroken line of the suit.
I hemmed my pants with no break at all, and combined them with Calvin Klein Guildford formal loafers ($130 - all kinds of options available if you go up to $500 or more) and silk over the calf formal hose from A Suitable Wardrobe. You can get silk hose online from Brooks Brothers for $40; I had to go to the ones from ASW because my feet are too small for most socks, and his actually came in sizes. If you have a problem with normal "shoe size 8-12" socks not fitting, these are the ones I have. I've only worn them once, but I have no complaints:
As for the fit (super slim fit) I would recommend having the fit/cut/silhouette, however you like to say it, done so that it looks like a classically cut style on you. On your body, maybe that's a super slim fit. The reason I say this, is that a Tuxedo is something you will likely keep, and continue to wear, for more than 10 years. Styles will change, so, unless you plan to replace it when fashions change, go with as classic a look as possible.
I agree that, if you need a slimmer lapel, a shawl will look nicer. I do not, however, agree that you necessarily need a slimmer lapel. I am 5'7", and a 37" chest, and I do just fine in a standard 3.5" lapel. Maybe you could shave a quarter inch, or 3/8 inches off of it, just to get it in proportion; I think this would, visually, look the same as a 3.5" lapel, but put it in balance. Someone with more knowledge on that might be able to correct me. It still might be better to go to a shawl, though. Hit up some consignment stores, or maybe places like Banana Republic etc., to see if you can find some narrow peak lapels to get an idea what they look like. A curved line of the lapel might make them look narrower - but it would definitely give them a retro look, and you might not want that. Narrow lapels might have the effect of dating your dinner jacket, rather than your desired effect of putting it in balance with your body.
I do not see a waist covering on your list. Are you planning on going without a waist cummerbund or waistcoat? I do not recommend that, but if you do, make sure that you have a higher rise on the pants, and that your jacket skirt hangs straight down below the button point, so that you can keep the bottom of your shirt covered with the jacket done up. A common issue with slim fit jackets is that they gape below the button point, so be sure to avoid that.