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Official Wedding Attire Question/Answer/Picture Thread - Page 152

post #2266 of 2509
Quote:
Originally Posted by suitandboot View Post

Say I want to spice up the outfit and add some color. Would it be ok wear a tie with a brighter color like a burgundy or burnt orange or something. To lighten up the outfit and take it away from supreme formality?

Also from most people's experience, is a navy suit good wedding groom attire for an evening reception? Also as it is a summer wedding but the venue will be indoors, I thought a navy suit with a subtle pattern would be good. I prefer not to go charcoal and definitely not black.

Burgundy is nice any day of the week, not special enough for a wedding. Orange is, just, god no. Don't. If you want color, wear a single bright flower in your boutonnière.

Navy suit would be wonderful. And useful after the wedding as well. Vest will be fine with our without lapels.

Congrats on your wedding! smile.gif
post #2267 of 2509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Msusox80 View Post

Evening gentleman.
I'm a groomsmen in my friends wedding in April and he has asked my opinion on ties for him and the rest of us...

Nothing wrong with navy suits for a wedding at all. Not in the slightest. Wear them with pride. With a variety of wedding ties, for example from Kent wang. Have the groom wear a white carnation and the groomsmen red carnations if you wish him to stand out. smile.gif
post #2268 of 2509
^ The flower idea is a nice touch, though I always find conversation about the groom standing out to be a bit amusing. Nothing wrong with a slightly different look for the groom, but I guess more practically. I mean, how many people going to the wedding aren't going to know / be able to figure out who the groom is without clothing cues?
post #2269 of 2509
^ I couldn't agree more.
post #2270 of 2509
In relation to my first post:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdductorMagnus View Post
 

G'day gents, short-time stalker, first time poster here.

 

So I'm getting married in Budapest, Hungary in July. Your thoughts on my attire would be much appreciated.

 

I'm going morning dress for the (secular) ceremony atop the Fisherman's bastion, and changing to black tie for the after six reception.

 

I got a vintage 50s/60s Moss bros black herringbone morning coat off of eBay, which will fit me nigh perfect once I lose an inch around the waist. I got a wool DB peak lapelled dove grey waistcoat from Clermontdirect, and Moss bros wool cashmere stripe trousers on eBay. Also got a Christy's black wool felt topper, again from eBay (I'm a poor student, need to be thrifty). 

 

I'm undecided on the shirt, plain white/pale blue or stripes? Contrast collar? I'm not finding a lot of RTW winchester shirts, at least not in my pricerange. Is online MTM/custom generally frowned upon here? 

Shoes, patent or can I give my plain-toed balmorals a good shine? My patent shoes are a smidgen too small, so I'd rather not spend the entire day in them...

Necktie or bow-tie? I'm partial to bow-ties, though it's not the most common neckwear for morning dress. My fiance wants shiny silvery for me and my two groomsmen. I don't, but I read in this thread about "wedding-ties" in houndstooth and such which would give a silver look?

Groomsmen will wear loungesuits, one in a nice navy, and the other probably in a bad black one (I'll be dropping subtle hints it's time for a new suit). Not much in the way of hiring options around these parts that I've found, and I'd rather they be comfortable in their own suits than ill-fitting morning dress anyway.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Tux-wise, I've got a dark blue, floral paisley (solid from a little distance) il Lanificio Cerruti wool, shawl collared SB DJ with black satin facings. It's double vented, would having a tailor close the vents be stupid?

Trousers are cut for suspenders, though no fishtail, black wool with silk braiding down the side, not the satin stripe. Single pleats. A black wool SB low-cut horseshoe waistcoat with self-faced shawl lapels from Charles Tyrwhitt is on the way in the mail. I know fabrics are supposed to match, but can black and black really be too far off? I've also been trying to source a double albert chain for my pocketwatch on eBay, but those things fly over my budget when the auctions are close to ending... 

I have a black barathea silk, sized selftie bow-tie, but this doesn't quite match the sheen of the facing on the DJ. Seeing as I've already bent the black-tie code with the odd DJ, should I try to source a more closely matching bow-tie?

Ideas on where I might find silk over-the-calf socks? Or would thin socks in some other fabric do?

 

For a shirt, I've been looking at semi-stiff front collarless tunic shirts here and here. -EDIT- These are single cuffed I just saw, black tie needs to be double cuffed?
Plain soft marcella shirts would of course be cheaper, but I really like the look of the stiffer fronts. I blame Downton Abbey. I'm thinking MOP studs in silver settings. Cufflinks are silver anatomical hearts my fiancee gave me.

 

We haven't specified dress-code on the invitations, but suit and tie is the norm for weddings in Norway where all the guests are travelling from. Likely to be a lot of jackets over the shoulder though, temps can exceed 35 celsius around that time. I'll be a step up in formality, I know, but you only get married once, right?

 

While writing this I unexpectedly won a Gieves (Gieves&Hawkes RTW sidelabel?) black wool, peak lapel satin faced SB DJ on a starting bid of  £16, I need to get off of eBay... Anyone know the line? I'll most likely stick with the paisley DJ for the reception either way.

 

 

 

 

I won yet another set of morning tails on eBay (oops), this one with trousers and a waistcoat. I'm rather pleased with it, but I'd welcome your feedback.

 

Pics galore (Ignore shirt, tie and shoddy PS. Also face.) Put in spoilers for your convenience.

 

Label reads West & Son of 152 New Bond Street, 1/1937:

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Lapel:

This is a much much softer wool than the 60s Moss Bros coat referenced in my first post (didn't have a clothes brush handy) Also fully canvassed, according to my pinch test. Supposed to feel seperate outer cloth, interlining and lining, no?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

Reddish golden lining, needs a small 10cm stitch-up in the vent.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Inside armhole details, read what this is called somewhere but can't remember it now.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Surgeon cuffs (befitting, I'm a med-student)

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Now, trousers. These have some weight to them. As in equivalent to 2-3 pairs of my jeans combined.

 

Fabric shot. Back of the hems have some minor wear, but no one is going to lie on the floor and inspect my heels methinks.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Fly. How many buttons dost one need?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Reverse(?) waistband buttons. Nifty.

 

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Fitpics

 

Bit of a rise

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

With black waistcoat in the same fabric, also canvassed. It's black, so more funeral than wedding appropriate according to my interweb research. I'll look into having one made in buff or dove grey or search for vintage, as I suspect anything OTR won't work with the high trouser rise, and the appropriate amount of waistcoat to peek out above and below the coat.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Coat on. Sorry for shoddy lighting, of course a bulb went out as I was doing this. Again, ignore shirt, tie and PS.
Topper is Christy's wool felt, shoes I bought from a backstreet cobbler in Zagreb. Probably nowhere close to Vass (I'll likely never know), but good enough for me. 
 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Any glaring problems? 

 

 

 

Commisioned a bespoke (first time, yay) light blue winchester detachable collar shirt today at Stan Ahuja here in Budapest. Should be ready in 3 weeks with two fittings. Apparently my arms are a couple of cm different in length. Probably my wonky right shoulder.

I'm thinking one of these for my wedding tie, or Kent Wangs shephards check if I can swing the cash, in which case I will gift these to my groomsmen.

 

 

Cheers!

post #2271 of 2509
It fits like it was made for you!
post #2272 of 2509
Great buy and a good fit too. Do not worry about buttoning it up, your coat fits so well it can be worn unbuttoned which to my mind usually looks better. Those high rise trousers mean that you can get a coloured waistcoat like the black one you are wearing that fits rather than the over long ones seen so often these days.
post #2273 of 2509
A very good set up, congrats on the find.

If you know a good tailor, and only if he is confident he can actually achieve the alteration adjustment, I think it may just need a small adjustment in the front/upper chest/ shoulder area and in the way the sleeve is mounted as it probably was calibrated for the client posture.
post #2274 of 2509
Thanks guys, one of my luckier eBay purchases, to put it mildly. 5 minutes left on the listing when I found it, with 4 bidders on it. Did not expect to win it for less than a new pair of jeans would've cost me. Downside is, now I can't afford a new pair of jeans wink.gif
Talked to my tailor about bespeaking a waistcoat for it, but with Holland & Sherry or Dormeuil cloth which he uses it would cost considerably more than the rest of the rig, so that'll have to be an upgrade further down the line. There's a repairs/alterations tailor in town that also does custom tailoring, could probably have him make me one that will be pretty good (by my unexperienced standards at least) for the price of an RTW from Clermontdirect. Probably won't trust him with altering the coat though, it'll have to do as is for the time being.
This was fun.
Edited by AdductorMagnus - 2/10/16 at 10:05am
post #2275 of 2509
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdductorMagnus View Post

Thanks guys, one of my luckier eBay purchases, to put it mildly. 5 minutes left on the listing when I found it, with 4 bidders on it. Did not expect to win it for less than a new pair of jeans would've cost me. Downside is, now I can't afford a new pair of jeans wink.gif
Talked to my tailor about bespeaking a waistcoat for it, but with Holland & Sherry or Dormeuil cloth which he uses it would cost considerably more than the rest of the rig, so that'll have to be an upgrade further down the line. There's a repairs/alterations tailor in town that also does custom tailoring, could probably have him make me one that will be pretty good (by my unexperienced standards at least) for the price of an RTW from Clermontdirect. Probably won't trust him with altering the coat though, it'll have to do as is for the time being.
This was fun. Might give @imthegroom a run for his money wink.gif

Good plan. Another option would be to buy an RTW DB morning vest from clemont or similar, and get it altered so to match the trouser rise. I have an RTW morning DB vest which is still cut for a pretty high rise (in the short lenght).
post #2276 of 2509
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post


Good plan. Another option would be to buy an RTW DB morning vest from clemont or similar, and get it altered so to match the trouser rise. I have an RTW morning DB vest which is still cut for a pretty high rise (in the short lenght).

Clermonts 40R DB waistcoat is 24" long. They only have R and L. Wouldn't altering the length at the shoulder throw off the lapels or something?

post #2277 of 2509
Great fit--unbelievable, for an eBay buy--on the coat and the trousers. There was a guy on here a few years ago who bespoke the whole morning dress rig in the Netherlands for his wedding. You'd have nothing to be ashamed of standing next to him, and he got good cut and fit.

I agree about not buttoning the coat if you have a well-fitting vest.

Odd that the coat appears to have no waist seam or back paneling. Can you confirm, Adductor?

I'd be nervous about altering a DB waistcoat. Waistcoats are tricky to alter, so are DBs, and I'd assume that a DB waistcoat is especially tricky. Marco, have you had luck with this?

I'd grab a piece of 11 oz cream linen from somewhere and take it to the alterations guy who does some custom to do up an SB vest. But that's me.
post #2278 of 2509
Depend how much they need to be shortened, this can be done by takin short of an inch at the shoulder and the same at the bottom, often removing a whole row of buttons, which is a good thing IMO, although this will also depend by the waistcoat pocket placement.
post #2279 of 2509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post


Odd that the coat appears to have no waist seam or back paneling. Can you confirm, Adductor?

Probably due to the lighting in the pics, the waistseam and back panels are there


Linen's a good idea, but all I seem to find on eBay has the word upholstery in it. Any ideas on a good source?
post #2280 of 2509
From my blog, poor quality but for some inspiration, Luis Vinicio (A legendary Brasilian Soccer player that was playing for SSC Napoli when he got married-1957):
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