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The Official Vintage Clothing and Accessories Thread - Page 66

post #976 of 1163
The Old England label is confusing to me. I initially thought it was from the recently-closed distinguished
Paris Men's shop. But the logo doesn't match.


http://www.marunouchi.com/e/images/shop/1526/logo

http://hoteljules-paris.com/jules-my-lord/?lang=en
post #977 of 1163
A few vintage pickups that I thought were unique and interesting:

1962 Schmidt & Gallupo Beverly Hills
The fabric on this one isn't like anything I've come across before. Very scratchy. Also, the original owner isn't who you think it is. He took the stage name a few years after this was made:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

A couple of 3-piece suits that I'm guessing are late 30s based on the the union tag in one of them (no union tag in the charcoal suit). I'm really in love with these. In the vein of RRL rather than Polo or RLPL. Really sturdy wool, but not stiff. Nothing special maker wise, but an example of the quality production of the time. I wish this came across more in pictures:

Curlee Clothes
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

HSM with Union Tag
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #978 of 1163
Quote:
Originally Posted by s_allen_p View Post

A couple of 3-piece suits that I'm guessing are late 30s based on the the union tag in one of them (no union tag in the charcoal suit). I'm really in love with these. In the vein of RRL rather than Polo or RLPL. Really sturdy wool, but not stiff. Nothing special maker wise, but an example of the quality production of the time. I wish this came across more in pictures:

Those '30s suits are mouthwatering! What size are they? I'm guessing small, since you didn't put them on your mannequin.

Can you see any of the bottom of the union tag under the edge of the lining? Curious about the copyright date and/or the number that would be in the lower right corner with the tag right-side-up.
post #979 of 1163
You are perceptive. Yes, too small for the mannequin, which is good for me as the Burlee fits me great. Hoping a tailor can slim the pants to a more modern fit. The HSM is just a tad bigger, which makes me think maybe the Burlee is the older of the two if the original owner gained weight as he over the years. Or maybe just different sizings. I Didn't even think to peel back the tiny bit of fabric at the edge to see what else there was. It says copyright 1939. So '39 or later. Thanks. Wish there was more info on Burlee so I could get a better date on it - earlier or later?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orgetorix View Post

Those '30s suits are mouthwatering! What size are they? I'm guessing small, since you didn't put them on your mannequin.

Can you see any of the bottom of the union tag under the edge of the lining? Curious about the copyright date and/or the number that would be in the lower right corner with the tag right-side-up.
post #980 of 1163
Quote:
Originally Posted by s_allen_p View Post

You are perceptive. Yes, too small for the mannequin, which is good for me as the Burlee fits me great. Hoping a tailor can slim the pants to a more modern fit. The HSM is just a tad bigger, which makes me think maybe the Burlee is the older of the two if the original owner gained weight as he over the years. Or maybe just different sizings. I Didn't even think to peel back the tiny bit of fabric at the edge to see what else there was. It says copyright 1939. So '39 or later. Thanks. Wish there was more info on Burlee so I could get a better date on it - earlier or later?

The lapel shape and button stance on the Curlee seems very '30s to me, so I'd put it in the middle or later '30s. Which might fit with your theory on the size difference.

HSM in that era made some of the most high-quality RTW suits available in the US, so you probably have a pretty nice one there.

If you do get them tailored, see if your guy can do it without cutting away any of the fabric allowance so they can be restored to the original silhouette someday. They've survived this long in their original state; seems a shame to permanently alter them now!
post #981 of 1163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orgetorix View Post

The lapel shape and button stance on the Curlee seems very '30s to me, so I'd put it in the middle or later '30s. Which might fit with your theory on the size difference.

HSM in that era made some of the most high-quality RTW suits available in the US, so you probably have a pretty nice one there.

If you do get them tailored, see if your guy can do it without cutting away any of the fabric allowance so they can be restored to the original silhouette someday. They've survived this long in their original state; seems a shame to permanently alter them now!

+1 Don't let the myopic SF Groupthink blind you, HSM made very high-quality menswear through the 1960's.

That first sport coat still looks very 50's, the end of the line for that structured shoulder & patch-pocket look! Though, it's not unusual.

Those 30's suits could fit right into the 70's, other than the fact that they're well made. The cyclical nature of fashion is still amusing! I'd also agree not to alter the pants. The suit was cut in a particular way and should stay, especially considering its age.
post #982 of 1163
Quote:
Originally Posted by futuremyth View Post

Hi vintage heads,
Hoping one of you might be able to help me identify the style and era of a couple of shirts I found the other day. Half placket, French cuffs, band collar that I assume would have a stiff starched one attached.

The CC in CC41 stands for "Civilian Clothing", you can read more about it here http://www.1940.co.uk/acatalog/an-introduction-to-utility-clothing.html smile.gif
post #983 of 1163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coal_Mining_Polak View Post


+1 Don't let the myopic SF Groupthink blind you, HSM made very high-quality menswear through the 1960's.

That first sport coat still looks very 50's, the end of the line for that structured shoulder & patch-pocket look! Though, it's not unusual.

Those 30's suits could fit right into the 70's, other than the fact that they're well made. The cyclical nature of fashion is still amusing! I'd also agree not to alter the pants. The suit was cut in a particular way and should stay, especially considering its age.

Well, personally I still think HSM's Gold Trumpeter line is quality enough for me.  The fabric is great year around, and the patterns and cut match up well for me.

 

And I want to also chime in to say, don't alter those pants!  So long as you think they are in original form at the moment, I'd be very cautious to alter anything at this time.  They are a beauty, and a very very RARE one at that.

post #984 of 1163
Pictures to come later of the Magill Fedora I just picked up for $4!
post #985 of 1163
Dept of "The Good Old Days -- They Were Terrible!"

An illustration from a story in the Spring 1933 Apparel Arts on how your shirts may be sewn with contract prison labor.

Chain Gang Tailor, anyone?

DSCN3616_zpsf0b559ee.jpg

Now listed here.
post #986 of 1163
I guess it would be a shame to alter the pants. I won't mention what I was looking into doing if slimming them down wasn't going to work. Unfortunately, the suit, as is, is unwearable; but I did buy them without even considering they might fit me.

Speaking of well made, I turned the collar up on an old coat I came across a couple of days ago to see this:





It was a beautiful coat, but there were stains that looked like blood on the back, and I didn't have the space to store it at the time. I just sold a similar size coat, so now there's an opening, and if it's still there the next time I'm back, I may not be able to resist.
post #987 of 1163
Anybody know what the hell this thing is called? Savile Row, dated 1952 (I assume it's a female piece)...
AppleMark Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark
AppleMark
post #988 of 1163
Quote:
Originally Posted by suited View Post

Anybody know what the hell this thing is called? Savile Row, dated 1952 (I assume it's a female piece)...
AppleMark Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark
AppleMark

Looks like a riding coat.
post #989 of 1163
And with Esq. on the tag it's certainly not for a woman.
post #990 of 1163
Looks like a riding coat, things that us blue collar folks know nothing about... tongue.gif

Though it 'tis the end of the hearty woolen coat season, I couldn't resist this Aquascutum:




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