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First Power Suit - Page 4

post #46 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

David are you seriously suggesting someone with no background in tailored clothing drop that much on a single suit which, at that price, would be very high end MTM or bespoke? It takes a bit of knowledge when specifying bespoke don't you think?


No, not really people with little to no knowledge place commissions for Bespoke suits every day, that's why you go to an expert and don't just make the suit yourself. I think its a bit of an Igent myth that you have to know a lot about tailoring to make it work for you and I mean this sincerely. I was talking to my friend michael hill (Drakes) a bit ago, about Prince Charles being a "style icon". I said, well I think he's well put together but nothing all that special and michael replied "well he gets his suits from Anderson and Shepherd and his shirts from Turnbull of course he looks good".

I think there's certainly something to be said about this. If you go to a real high end maker you would have to try very hard to come out looking "bad".

That's not to say that knowledge is a bad thing but I think it's generaly a good idea to defer to the proffessional. There was a time when we trusted our butcher, our baker, our tailor etc and respected their advice. Now we are rather jaded and probably worse for it.
post #47 of 67
OP should buy a suit from brooks that fits him well off the rack and have it tailored. They have a lot of different fits now, one should be fine. That is good enough to meet with your clients.

OP's "first power suit" should not be $3k bespoke.
post #48 of 67

I thought Allen Edmonds sold firsts for around $200 on the PXs (and I'm talking Park Avenues and Strands...not their cheap entry level stuff). You might want to check the Exchange website and see if there are any AEs there. A couple of weeks ago they were selling Strands for $170.

 

Also Samuelsohns does MTM and you get a fully canvassed suit. I think they are around $1200 to $1500. I'm sure there must be a men's store out there that offers them. I also believe they are doing their trunk shows, so you can get a MTM suit for even less money.

post #49 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

No, not really people with little to no knowledge place commissions for Bespoke suits every day, that's why you go to an expert and don't just make the suit yourself. I think its a bit of an Igent myth that you have to know a lot about tailoring to make it work for you and I mean this sincerely. I was talking to my friend michael hill (Drakes) a bit ago, about Prince Charles being a "style icon". I said, well I think he's well put together but nothing all that special and michael replied "well he gets his suits from Anderson and Shepherd and his shirts from Turnbull of course he looks good".

I think there's certainly something to be said about this. If you go to a real high end maker you would have to try very hard to come out looking "bad".

That's not to say that knowledge is a bad thing but I think it's generaly a good idea to defer to the proffessional. There was a time when we trusted our butcher, our baker, our tailor etc and respected their advice. Now we are rather jaded and probably worse for it.

Thanks for replying - I respect your experience. My question was with respect to someone with no background in CM going to a tailor with whom they have no experience (and not Savile Row or New York or Naples) and asking for a "power suit" and expecting a good outcome. I have no doubt that if a "noob" went to A&S or Logsdale or Rubinacci would get a nice suit. However, if that same noob went to a local tailor and said "make me a power suit" I'm not sure thet could count on good results.

My own experience was that a very good tailor still required specific direction to get the results I wanted.
post #50 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

Thanks for replying - I respect your experience. My question was with respect to someone with no background in CM going to a tailor with whom they have no experience (and not Savile Row or New York or Naples) and asking for a "power suit" and expecting a good outcome. I have no doubt that if a "noob" went to A&S or Logsdale or Rubinacci would get a nice suit. However, if that same noob went to a local tailor and said "make me a power suit" I'm not sure thet could count on good results.

My own experience was that a very good tailor still required specific direction to get the results I wanted.

Can't his local tailor be a good shop, why you must think the shop must be worse than A&S or logsdale?
There are so many good tailors outside this forum, keep your mind open.
post #51 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

Before I spent all of that money on clothes and shoes, I'd make sure that the terms of my pay were crystal clear. I wouldn't want them to "run out of funding" and brush my paycheck to the side.

I was going to say exactly this - don't spend substantial $$$ unti you DO get this offer in writing. Shaking hands maybe good enough in the military, but civilian business world works differently. And effectively they reneged on their offer once already - you were going to start in January, remember? (Wtf does it mean "funding got delayed"? you don't hire people until you have the money to pay them).

Sorry for ranting off-topically, but I got this image in my head of some sharks exploiting the enthusiasm of a guy who's leaving his old comfort zone, and it got me worked up a little (+ the envy about his waist/chest size ratio smile.gif).
post #52 of 67
$3000:

brown AE's from SF affiliate $250
black cap-toe AE's from SF affiliate $250
suit - navy light pin $400 (suit supply, club monaco) - CM is half canvassed and will allow you to mix and pants with jackets. At your size could likely get a great deal.
suit - grey $400 (suit supply, club monaco)
shirt - white $150 (lots of options)
shirt - light blue $150 (ibid)
'power' suit $1200 (If OTR, check here for ISAIA, RLPL, TF Base II Notch. )
unforeseen tailoring $200 (shirts, etc. etc.)
post #53 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrb View Post

$3000:

brown AE's from SF affiliate $250
black cap-toe AE's from SF affiliate $250
suit - navy light pin $400 (suit supply, club monaco) - CM is half canvassed and will allow you to mix and pants with jackets. At your size could likely get a great deal.
suit - grey $400 (suit supply, club monaco)
shirt - white $150 (lots of options)
shirt - light blue $150 (ibid)
'power' suit $1200 (If OTR, check here for ISAIA, RLPL, TF Base II Notch. )
unforeseen tailoring $200 (shirts, etc. etc.)

with 3 suits, I would budget more for tailoring costs
post #54 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by bertie View Post

David are you seriously suggesting someone with no background in tailored clothing drop that much on a single suit which, at that price, would be very high end MTM or bespoke? It takes a bit of knowledge when specifying bespoke don't you think?

in my opinion thats not really "very high end MTM or bespoke". Its really middle of the road when it comes to these things. Very high end really starts at about 5k-ish and thats really IMO for marginal aesthetic gains like hand stitching, hand padded canvasses, fancy smancy fabrics etc. While i agree with you that it might be a huge leap of faith going straight into that price range especially if its going to be his only suit but David does have a point in having a "go to suit" that you can be sure will get your point across
post #55 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierce R View Post


That puts my need-a-suit drop-dead date probably sometime around June; plenty of time to get a MTM from Alexandre. Still torn between navy and charcoal.



You can't really go wrong with either navy or charcoal. But personally i prefer navy because of my skin tone and i find it nicer to wear at night which it essentially when i need to wear a suit for functions etc
post #56 of 67

When I think "power suit" I think something that is a little louder than your average grey or navy suit. Pinstripes come to mind, and if done right can really add some sophistication to your suit. If you are buying OTR, you could maybe get an Armani or Zegna as long as it's not their newest collection. When you can go bespoke, check out Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn. He is one of the last pure old school tailors that won't charge you five grand for a suit with mid-grade material. He runs around $2,500 I think and is worth every penny. Plus he tailored Clinton's suits :)

post #57 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotchman View Post

When I think "power suit" I think something that is a little louder than your average grey or navy suit. Pinstripes come to mind, and if done right can really add some sophistication to your suit. If you are buying OTR, you could maybe get an Armani or Zegna as long as it's not their newest collection. When you can go bespoke, check out Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn. He is one of the last pure old school tailors that won't charge you five grand for a suit with mid-grade material. He runs around $2,500 I think and is worth every penny. Plus he tailored Clinton's suits smile.gif

There is no such thing as a 'power suit', if you need 'power' in a suit, that means you have no real power.
post #58 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

There is no such thing as a 'power suit', if you need 'power' in a suit, that means you have no real power.

I thought the OP had finally built one IRL, and am disappoint.

post #59 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post


There is no such thing as a 'power suit', if you need 'power' in a suit, that means you have no real power.

...agreed. It's the mental equivalent of wearing one of those foam muscle outfits.

post #60 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

There is no such thing as a 'power suit', if you need 'power' in a suit, that means you have no real power.

Working in the City, I have noticed that no real head honcho on the trading floor wore pinstripe suits. It's a favourite of junior guys who read "Liar's Poker" one time too many, desperate contractors or middle age guys stuck in low level director positions. Oh, and headhunters like pinstripes too. Do you want to look like a headhunter?
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