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Fabric brands ranking

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
I was looking at Proper Suit and noticed their "Fabric Level", and I wanted to learn more about different level of fabrics, so I searched around SF and found numbers of helpful comments including this ranking by add911_11. Based on that ranking, I added few other names that I've found over the forum. 
 
I was wondering if you guys can offer some more suggestions of other brands and their qualities. If I am missing some names or misplaced the quality, please don't be mad. I am still a novice who's learning about these. This is NOT a definitive guide by no mean, and I only made it as a rule of thumb for a future refernce.
 
 
Top Drawer:
H. Lesser and Sons
Holland and Sherry
Loro Piana 'Wish' s170
Scabal
Zenga 15 mil 15 or 17 mil 17
 
Good:
Dormeuil (slightly higher than "Good")
J & J Minnis
John G Hardy
Loro Piana 4 season
Harrison
 
Average:
Vitale Barberis Canonico
Reda
Gladstone
 
? (Not sure where to place)
Ariston
Dugdale Bros
Fox Brothers & Co
Scabal
Thomas Fisher
 
 
SF threads that I found helpful:
 
 
P.S. Can anybody recommend good online sources of suit fabric for informations like the price?

Edited by strangedream - 12/20/12 at 12:31pm
post #2 of 25
Thank you for taking the time to compile information you've already found on your question. I recently started looking into getting a bespoke jacket made and also have done a lot of searching on fabrics. Here's some other good resources I found:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/19036/dormeuil-amadeus-vs-h-s-target-10-11-oz

http://www.styleforum.net/t/33348/when-you-guys-say-great-fabric/0_30

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/harrisons-of-edinburgh-cloth-both-for-the-second-estate-traditionalist-and-for-the-modern-man-of-manners

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/h-lessers-and-sons

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/acorn-shirt-fabric

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/suggestions-for-the-serious-dresser

H&S and Dormeuil have user-friendly websites where you can look at all the fabric collections that people are talking about. I've even gotten them to send me a few swatches. I would recommend skipping online MTM for suits.
post #3 of 25

While I appreciate the effort, I think inorganic rankings like the above are somewhat useless / misleading. H&S has some books that deserve to be in the top-tier, while others that are decidedly mid-tier. As a whole, Minnis / Hardy are top-tier, but they put out some clangers as well. Ariston is made by LP, and Harrison’s and Minnis’ flannels are made by Fox. Etc. etc.

 

A member’s best bet is to consult his tailor, and follow-up on this forum with specific questions.

 

A more useful exercise would be to solicit suggestions from members on the best books for: lightweight suits, mid-weight tweed, mohair for black-tie etc.

post #4 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

A member’s best bet is to consult his tailor, and follow-up on this forum with specific questions.

A more useful exercise would be to solicit suggestions from members on the best books for: lightweight suits, mid-weight tweed, mohair for black-tie etc.

nod[1].gif
post #5 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post

While I appreciate the effort, I think inorganic rankings like the above are somewhat useless / misleading. H&S has some books that deserve to be in the top-tier, while others that are decidedly mid-tier. As a whole, Minnis / Hardy are top-tier, but they put out some clangers as well. Ariston is made by LP, and Harrison’s and Minnis’ flannels are made by Fox. Etc. etc.

 

A member’s best bet is to consult his tailor, and follow-up on this forum with specific questions.

 

A more useful exercise would be to solicit suggestions from members on the best books for: lightweight suits, mid-weight tweed, mohair for black-tie etc.

 

Thanks for the awesome tip Eustace. I'll definitely remember that. I didn't even know Ariston is made by LP, and Harrison’s and Minnis’ flannels are made by Fox. I just remembered the name Ariston and Fox Bros. from somewhere so I put them in the "?" section.

 

I'd only compiled this list only as a simple rule of thumb, and of 90% of the list, I just copied from add911_11 and Proper Suit. I guess I was what are other good fabric brands to know.

 

Anyway, I really appreciate your advice. I'll definitely remember it for the future reference.

post #6 of 25
Another thing to note is that there are often compromises between the smooth silky feeling cloth versus the hard scratchy finish. A lot of what is liked at the forum are hard finished scratchy fabrics which soften with time.

The suit won't feel luxurious in beginning but will perform well and soften with time. There are slick finished silky feeling cloth like Dormeiul Ice that perform really well but also have a slight sheen.

Also, don't be surprised that your taste changes with time and experience. Mine has.

BTW just because something is made by the same mill doesn't mean they are made to the same specifications.
post #7 of 25
^ Do fabric books typically feature one or the other, hard or soft finishes?


There's a softball pitch for someone.
post #8 of 25
In general, the English tend to have hard finished fabrics whereas the soft finished fabrics are Italian. But everything is really on a case-by-case basis and there are all sorts of exceptions.
post #9 of 25
Anyone heard of Yates fabric?
post #10 of 25
Just read this bumped thread, to clarify, Aroston is a merchant and get Fabrics made by a number of Italian Mill including Carlo Barbera (he also makes for Drapers) LP makes for Caccippoli as does Guabello.

Basically certain merchants have relationship with certain Mills. For instance, Carlo Barbera makes a range of fabric for the season and then each merchant will choose what to include in their own book. No merchant will have the full offering made by one mill
post #11 of 25

I have to say I'd like to have some more BASIC GUIDANCE for people who are "new" to fabrics and need help figuring out which fabrics are 'bad, poor, average, decent, good, nice, excellent, wow'.' and at what prices they are usually sold/ available. 

 

I visited 2/3 tailors and I was confused as hell as some stuff was starting at approx 30 GBP and others twice the price and higher into Zegna & Scabals. 

 

I'd like to know what is the lower, mid segments and what are good fabrics at low/ mid starting price points. 

 

Please advise. 

 

PS: Is it possible to get decent Suiting material - worsted wool for 30 GBP. If so, then which brand/ mill/ series/ fabrics should I look at - where and how? 

post #12 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by strangedream View Post

I was looking at Proper Suit and noticed their "Fabric Level", and I wanted to learn more about different level of fabrics, so I searched around SF and found numbers of helpful comments including this ranking by add911_11. Based on that ranking, I added few other names that I've found over the forum.

Here's another member's suit from Proper Suit:



http://www.styleforum.net/t/363941/mtm-suit-fit-critique

You draw your own conclusions. mwink[1].gif
post #13 of 25

Most of the fabrics come from the same mills and are of equal quality. You pay for fabric design and ranges. It costs to support lots of stock. Scabal has 5000 fabrics in stock, and big advertising, but they have patterns and qualities as much as you can imagine, but they have a higher price. You can get the same for less, but usually they have cloth that design is unique to them for instance, so you pay the price they ask. 

post #14 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post

I have to say I'd like to have some more BASIC GUIDANCE for people who are "new" to fabrics and need help figuring out which fabrics are 'bad, poor, average, decent, good, nice, excellent, wow'.' and at what prices they are usually sold/ available. 

I visited 2/3 tailors and I was confused as hell as some stuff was starting at approx 30 GBP and others twice the price and higher into Zegna & Scabals. 

I'd like to know what is the lower, mid segments and what are good fabrics at low/ mid starting price points. 

Please advise. 

PS: Is it possible to get decent Suiting material - worsted wool for 30 GBP. If so, then which brand/ mill/ series/ fabrics should I look at - where and how? 

Loro Piana, Dormueil, Scabal, Zegna are going to be on the more expensive side. Vitale Barberis Conoco, Delfino, Ariston (can be pricey) and I am sure there are others are more reasonably price.

This has been my experience. Then there's the English cloth, Huddersfield, Minnis, J. Hardy, Lesser, Harrisons, Fox. I guess stick to the name brands and you will be fine. It can be quite overwhelming. I don't think there is a quick answer to your question.
Edited by badsha - 10/10/13 at 3:28pm
post #15 of 25

Your post is full of incorrect information, half of the names you mention are merchants not mills. Scabal are a cloth merchant that commission weave, and Bower is a mill owned by them, but produces cloth for them and others.

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