For the topic of cuffs and break, I refer to Australia's illustrious Phat Guido, aka Guido Wongolini
The answer you seek can be found at http://mostexerent.tumblr.com/post/570115225/thanks-to-a-new-follower-who-has-taken-the-time
And spoilered for your convenience.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Anyway, in this day an age we all get tied up with definitive measurements & forget the most important rule balance & proportion.
Well when you are of my stature we start to see things from a different perspective.
So in simple terms, what you see is not what you think. The size of cuff & opening I wear is not so easily translated to others. The other factor we need to take into account:
- type of cloth - as some have more drape & others are stiff
- pattern & colour of cloth
- type of shoe - narrow, wide, double or single sole & so on
- dimension of shoe
The above also need to be taken into account with the break of the pant - when the bottom touches the shoe & how much of a crease is formed.
IMO men that are shorter in stature should avoid full-breaks at all times as this cause a disturbance in the flow from shoe to trou to jacket & so on.
They say that men of my stature (< or = 5’7”) should avoid cuffs let alone 2” cuffs (as the standard is 1.5” - 1.75”), but we come back to my previous statement regardingbalance & proportion not definitive measurements. Sure once you have worked out what works for you then use that as a base - but we still need to refer to the naked eye to see if the balance & proportion is there.
This is where it helps if you have a tailor or a 2nd or 3rd person that you trust to be the impartial eye as the 1st person tends to see the inflection not reflection from the right perspective.
I hope this has not been too tedious, but it is easier than responding to emails etc.
FYI - Not all my cuffs are 2”. They actually vary from 1.75” to 2” & the opening varies from 15” to 16”. See, nothing is definitive.
Enjoy & walk TALL & the other day I saw a man with 4” maybe 5” cuffs - I should have asked him about them.
From personal experience, I like a larger cuff *like 2 inches* - it makes your pantalones more refined (if you're conservative or even business casual) and it does help with drape.
At the end of the day, it's a matter of personal preference, really. If you go "no break", a smaller leg opening will prevent fabric flapping around, but again you need to take proportion into account.
I second Nicola's above comment - you are not going to be able to find a perfect four seasons cloth for Toronto, and you should really be looking at seasonal cloths if you're going to be serious.
That being said, if I were going to go for all seasons in TO, I'd probably chose a worsted cloth in a middle-weight. What was mentioned before is reasonable (10 ounce). You would have to layer up though. Check out Dugdale Bros. Their cloths are very hard-wearing. Note that worsteds tend to be a bit scratchier, but are textured. If you do end up using the suit as separates (I do, although it is SF blashphemy), a textured cloth is going to look much better than any supers wool. It's the shiny wools that make separates look like, well, separates.
In terms of who you should buy from, I think Suit Supply is opening up a store in TO. I live in Aus, but in the event that I I do visit TO again, I would check it out as I'm interested in their outerwear. Otherwise, travelling tailors can work, but the best advice I can give is to find a local tailor you can work with and develop a relationship with.
One more piece of advice from personal experience, avoid purchasing clothes in the mindset that "this needs to be 100% super versatile". Sometimes you end up making poorer judgements with this hardliner, and end up with something totally unwearable. Define the function of your purchase, and form quickly follows.