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Arctic Climate to Tropical Climate: Suiting Woes

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 

Couple of things to consider here.  I've recently taken to canvassed sportcoats, thick waistcoats, and properly-waisted and suspendered wool slacks as my daily wardrobe.  Living in the middle of Canada where three of the four seasons are winter, the majority of my wardrobe is of heavier wools and/or double-breasted.  The snag to this is that I'll eventually be moving to and living in the mostly tropical climate of Japan.  Will any of my wools be okay in the humid 35-degree centigrade summers, like maybe the loosely woven tweeds?  Do I need to move to a primarily linen wardrobe?  Should I drop down to waistcoats alone instead of sportcoats alone or any combination of the two?  Should I commit the sin of short-sleeved shirts with sportcoats or the possibly even graver sin of the short-sleeved sportcoat?  I'd prefer not to dip into polyesters or blends, and cotton blazers/pants don't look very nice on my thin figure.  Super 100s+ are also out, and shorts are completely incompatible with my wardrobe choices.  Any advice from the more experienced men here?

 

As a side note, it's likely that I won't be able to find anything in my size when I get there.  At six-foot, it's hard enough finding 30/34 pants with a decent rise (part of the reason I went to unhemmed slacks) or 14.5/35 shirts here in Canada, let alone in Japan where the average height is shorter.

post #2 of 18

Again with the short-sleeved sport coat.

 

It is an abomination. Never, under and circumstances, is that sort of thing acceptable.

post #3 of 18
Plenty of people live in hot/humid climates without completely abandoning their dignity. I suggest you do the same. Yes to linen. As to nothing being your size--heard of internet shopping?
post #4 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

Should I drop down to waistcoats alone instead of sportcoats alone or any combination of the two?  Should I commit the sin of short-sleeved shirts with sportcoats

You're worried about short sleeves but you're willing to wear just a vest???
post #5 of 18

As harsh as this seems, it gets very hot for a good portion of the year in NC, and I can tell you that this is probably your best solution:

post #6 of 18
This is an eternal problem with suiting; yes there are lighter, looser wools out there that would be more comfortable in heat, but that comes at the price of a less clean appearance- they'll show wrinkles and tailoring/fitting flaws MUCH more than heavier, thicker wools. If you're not going bespoke this problem will be magnified. Plus, at the end of the day, a buttoned suit with tie is going to be awful in summer heat no matter how light the fabric. I wear 21 oz suiting, which is incredibly heavy, but I feel is worth it for the best appearance possible. Suits look inelegant above 80 degrees in my opinion, since they look stiff and uncomfortable... at those temperatures I go for clean fitting trousers and dress shirts.

Don't do lone waistcoats unless you're a bartender, if you want suspenders:

post #7 of 18

im in the same situation, but reverse, tropical climate to semi arctic

post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenn View Post

This is an eternal problem with suiting; yes there are lighter, looser wools out there that would be more comfortable in heat, but that comes at the price of a less clean appearance- they'll show wrinkles and tailoring/fitting flaws MUCH more than heavier, thicker wools. If you're not going bespoke this problem will be magnified. Plus, at the end of the day, a buttoned suit with tie is going to be awful in summer heat no matter how light the fabric. I wear 21 oz suiting, which is incredibly heavy, but I feel is worth it for the best appearance possible. Suits look inelegant above 80 degrees in my opinion, since they look stiff and uncomfortable... at those temperatures I go for clean fitting trousers and dress shirts.
Don't do lone waistcoats unless you're a bartender, if you want suspenders:

Bah... Lone waistcoats are great as long as they're not charcoal or black. 

 

But wow, man. 21 oz? Where do you even GET that? And isn't it kind of overkill? I have this great pair of tweed trousers, I'd have to say 14 oz, and they never wrinkle. Ever. Ever. I have a 7.5 oz pair of trousers from express that I've literally worn 22 times since I had them pressed. Hung them up in the bathroom when I showered and I was fine. They finally got wrinkled when I took them in to have them tapered, but...

 

Do you expect your suits to stop a bullet for you?

post #9 of 18
Linen-wool blends are a hard-to-find option that likely would look sturdier than pure linen and pure cotton. (Though observant Jews aren't supposed to wear linen-wool mixes.) Tropical weight wool blended with linen might be ideal, if it exists. Darker colors - which would fit in well with Japanese tastes - tend to hide some of the problems with lightweight fabrics. Any jacket still probably needs at least a half-lining to look professional. There are ways to compensate slightly with lighter-weight shirts, undershirts, etc.
post #10 of 18
Thread Starter 

Where would I go about finding linen pants with a 12.5"-14" rise (at a reasonable price, reasonable being <$125), though?  The closest I've found through online shopping is Tommy Bahama, which is at the upper end of the price spectrum and the only non-cargo pants they offer are drawstring waist and non-sized.  Their other offerings are cargo pants or shorts, which I do not want to touch with any length of pole.

post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

Where would I go about finding linen pants with a 12.5"-14" rise (at a reasonable price, reasonable being <$125), though?  The closest I've found through online shopping is Tommy Bahama, which is at the upper end of the price spectrum and the only non-cargo pants they offer are drawstring waist and non-sized.  Their other offerings are cargo pants or shorts, which I do not want to touch with any length of pole.

Try Tasso Elba. The quality's not the best, but it should be within your price range. Also, drawstring waist is acceptable for linen.

post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

Where would I go about finding linen pants with a 12.5"-14" rise (at a reasonable price, reasonable being <$125), though?  The closest I've found through online shopping is Tommy Bahama, which is at the upper end of the price spectrum and the only non-cargo pants they offer are drawstring waist and non-sized.  Their other offerings are cargo pants or shorts, which I do not want to touch with any length of pole.

Perhaps try Luxire (see affiliate thread). They seem to be able to MTM anything...
post #13 of 18
Tropical climate in Japan? WTF? Are you getting exiled to Iwo Jima or one of those south east islets?

If that's the case, dress like the locals.

BTW, Japanese home islands are far from tropical climate and even Okinawa is only sub tropical.

Just buy your clothing there if its the main lands. You should be okay for your size.
post #14 of 18
There are tons of tropical weight wool suits out there. They have their drawbacks but in truly hot climates they remain a great choice.

Minnis makes a fabric called 'fresco' that has a somewhat open/loose weave and is very breathable.

Unlined or partially lined jackets can actually make you cooler than a shirt alone as they breath AND provide shade.

When it is REALLY hot your biggest enemy is the tie. As knotting up at the collar blocks up the 'ventilation opening' at the neck.

Wool socks can actually be cooler than cotton, as wool is better at wicking the moisture away.

The 'high tech' undershirts are also very effective at wicking moisture and cooling you a bit.
post #15 of 18

We do have heat in houses these days so you're wearing things too heavy even for Calgary.Midweight worsted suits are the norm and if it's very cold then silk or cotton tights underneath.

You're going to need new clothes for Toyko in Summer.Tropical weight wool or wool blends are the coolest.They can also be woven lighter than cotton or linen(wrinkles too much anyway, wool doesn't)

Dump the silly braces too and wear slip on shoes unless you want to look like a rube.

Light short sleeve shirts, no tie unless required.

Lightweight cotton slacks for sportswear and featherweight denim if you can find them.(7-8 oz)or wear them

Lightweight cotton /linen socks or even a light high worsted wool content sock.

I would't wear a jacket there in Summer but a lightweight wool/silk/linen blend may be ok.

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