Thom Browne's clothing, and mens' "fashion", in general, has always been quite puzzling for me.
What I'd like to know is: What is so new, so innovative, to justify the hoopla surrounding a new designer? So Browne is known for his tighter and shorter cuts. For this he gets to charge $$$ and even wins the annual designer award. Where is the actual INNOVATION? Maybe this is applicable to the whole fashion industry in general: tweaking with the old and classic, but generally nothing new.
As an aside, I always find the new announcements about new "designers" in the mens's magazines (GQ, Esquire,..etc) quite amusing. Invariably the purpose/goal of the new designer is to make more "wearable clothing" Funny thing is, it looks all the same, simply with different labels.