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Hugo Boss Tuxedo: Shoulder/Sleeve Not Right

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

Hi Everyone! This is my first post, but I have been a longtime guest reader and appreciate all the great advice from the contributors.

 

I have been looking for a tuxedo and the Hugo Boss Carey Grant has caught my eye. It's got the peak lapels I want at the right price point. It's not as slim as I'd like it to be, but their in-house tailor said he can take in the jacket and pants to make it fit more like the Hugo (red) line. There is however one problem. The shoulder/sleeve area doesn't look right. Their in-house tailor said he can't do anything about it, but I'd like to get other opinions. When I stand in my normal posture, it wrinkles, but when i put my arms forward, it looks fine.

 

Here are some pics of how it looks when I stand straight up in my normal posture. These pictures are from when I tried it on in the store, so it has not been tailored at all:

 

700

 

700

 

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If anyone also has any other suggestions for nice peak lapel tuxedos priced under $1,000, please feel free to share! Thanks in advance!

post #2 of 15
Thread Starter 

Some additional information that I previously left out: Someone told me that the sleeve needs to be rotated at the shoulder. I found this animation in another thread (credit to tailorgod). Does anyone think that's the problem? If so, is it fixable and is it an easy alteration?

700

Or is the problem with the shoulder? Someone else said it might be a shoulder pad issue.


Edited by bsacc - 11/26/12 at 11:10am
post #3 of 15
You might need to size down.
post #4 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

You might need to size down.


This one was a 38. I tried the 36 and it did the same thing, plus the chest area was too tight.

 

And for both sizes, when I brought my arms forward, the wrinkles disappeared.

post #5 of 15

It looks like the shoulders are too wide, the yoke (across the upper back/rear shoulders) is too wide and too structured and the sleeves don't accomodate the straight position of your arms. Judging from the shoulders (and sleeves), sizing down may be a good option. If that doesn't work, you can have alterations done or find a different cut.

post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

It looks like the shoulders are too wide, the yoke (across the upper back/rear shoulders) is too wide and too structured and the sleeves don't accomodate the straight position of your arms. Judging from the shoulders (and sleeves), sizing down may be a good option. If that doesn't work, you can have alterations done or find a different cut.


I tried one size down and the sleeves did the same thing. The problem with the smaller size was the chest was too small causing the front to stick out a bit. So from a size standpoint, it doesn't make a difference in the sleeves. Maybe you're right that the cut might be the problem confused.gif

post #7 of 15
keep looking for another tux - rotating the shoulder seems like a complicated fix - I'd be surprised if any store would do that alteration for free. you don't want to buy the tux only to find out no one can do it locally or it's expensive
post #8 of 15

I think the main problem is that the shoulders don't follow your natural shoulder line at all. You seem to have sloped, forward shoulders. Need to try other brands...

post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsacc View Post






If anyone also has any other suggestions for nice peak lapel tuxedos priced under $1,000, please feel free to share! Thanks in advance!

That photo alone should tell you to move on.
post #10 of 15
there's seriously something wrong with the sleeves with all the creases.
post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

It looks like the shoulders are too wide, the yoke (across the upper back/rear shoulders) is too wide and too structured and the sleeves don't accomodate the straight position of your arms. Judging from the shoulders (and sleeves), sizing down may be a good option. If that doesn't work, you can have alterations done or find a different cut.

The shoulder pads are kind of big. I'm thinking if I move down to a 36 and have the shoulder pads replaced with smaller ones, it might fit better.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by FidelCashflow View Post

keep looking for another tux - rotating the shoulder seems like a complicated fix - I'd be surprised if any store would do that alteration for free. you don't want to buy the tux only to find out no one can do it locally or it's expensive

Hugo Boss store already said they won't do it. I would have to take it to my own tailor, but even then I'm worried it won't get fixed or look right.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

I think the main problem is that the shoulders don't follow your natural shoulder line at all. You seem to have sloped, forward shoulders. Need to try other brands...

Sloped forward? Actually, when I sloped my shoulders forward it would correct the creases in the sleeve.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicola View Post


That photo alone should tell you to move on.

A good tailoring job can't salvage it, huh?

post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsacc View Post


A good tailoring job can't salvage it, huh?

yup - move on
post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsacc View Post

Sloped forward? Actually, when I sloped my shoulders forward it would correct the creases in the sleeve.

 

I'm talking about the shape of your clavicle, not the angle of your arms. See how your real shoulder seems to be in front of the jacket's shoulder in the picture.

post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsacc View Post

The shoulder pads are kind of big. I'm thinking if I move down to a 36 and have the shoulder pads replaced with smaller ones, it might fit better.

Hugo Boss store already said they won't do it. I would have to take it to my own tailor, but even then I'm worried it won't get fixed or look right.

Sloped forward? Actually, when I sloped my shoulders forward it would correct the creases in the sleeve.

A good tailoring job can't salvage it, huh?

You need forward shoulders. Taking out shoulder pads or decreasing shoulder width won't help you. Actually the shoulders will look better if you try a size or two larger, but you will end up with a very messy back...

As RDiaz said, the shoulders must fit your natural shoulder line.
post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

I'm talking about the shape of your clavicle, not the angle of your arms. See how your real shoulder seems to be in front of the jacket's shoulder in the picture.

I see what you're saying. Thanks for explaining further. A good tailor can't fix that?

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