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Frank Shattuck Bespoke Suit - Page 7

post #91 of 109
shirt sleeves are far too short.
the edge stitching is much too heavy and showy.
post #92 of 109
post #93 of 109
My favorite aspect of it, seeing the larger pictures, are the oversized hip patch pockets. Stunning stuff.
post #94 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
the edge stitching is much too heavy and showy.
Flash photography makes that look more pronounced than it really is. All of my Shattuck suits have the same stitching, and it is much less noticeable in real life.
post #95 of 109
Could someone explain to me the advantage of the extra material in the back (as indicated below):



Similarly, what is the advantage of the extra material in the pants (as indicated below):



I am no expert in these matters and I am looking to learn, not criticize.
post #96 of 109
The excess up top is back drape or "fullness"; it allows for freer movement.

The excess in the trousers just means that the back rise is too long relative to the front. I have found this to be a common problem with every tailor I have used.
post #97 of 109
i finally get to see the Shoe Fairy in person!
post #98 of 109
With the suit so new, I suppose an expose of its inner workings is out of the question?
post #99 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by diorshoe View Post
i finally get to see the Shoe Fairy in person!

I always pictured him with grey hair. Guess not!

I love the shaping and fullness in the back. I think I understand what Iammatt meant about my bespoke coat now.
post #100 of 109
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GQgeek View Post
I always pictured him with grey hair. Guess not!

Being a Shoe Fairy does have its advantages.
post #101 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by taxgenius69 View Post
Could someone explain to me the advantage of the extra material in the back (as indicated below):



Similarly, what is the advantage of the extra material in the pants (as indicated below):



I am no expert in these matters and I am looking to learn, not criticize.

You're kinda grumpy aren't you?
post #102 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artisan Fan View Post
You're kinda grumpy aren't you?

What? Those are fair questions.
post #103 of 109
Well, now that you've had the suit for a few months, care to cut it open and show us the guts?
post #104 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

The excess in the trousers just means that the back rise is too long relative to the front. I have found this to be a common problem with every tailor I have used.


I am a bit late to the party but it took me a while to find time to take these pictures. These are the brace trousers of my new Adamo Marrone suit (charcoal grey). The cut is based on an old pair of trousers that came with a frock coat suit dating from circa 1910-20. The pattern has been tweaked to fit me better and the rise at the back made even higher:





I haven't even bothered to put my braces on and yet they sit almost perfectly on me.

In any case there are obviously other factors other than the length of the back rise.
post #105 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post



How high are those pants in the front? From the side view, it looks like they must be hitting your ribcage.

Are you wearing a watch with a metal bracelet as opposed to, if not a pocket watch, at least one with a leather strap?!?
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