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Gathered shirt shoulders

CrimsonWave

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I came across a website of a shirtmaker recently, in which a gathered sleevehead and sleeve was discussed. This feature shows up as ripples on the sleevehead and the seam between the cuff and the sleeve. This effect is accomplished by pulling a bigger sleeve into a bigger armhole, resulting in a somewhat "puffed" shoulder/sleeve finish. Apparently this is called "Spalla con Grinze".

1000


Does anyone have experience with this? Also, would it make a difference if the sewing on the sleevehead/sleeve is machine stitched and not hand stitched?
 

Cantabrigian

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If it were done by machine, the ripples would be flatter since you couldn't as easily control where and how you fed the excess cloth into the sleevehead and where it was stitched.

Will have some with that experience shortly.

That looks like a reasonably good example - who's the maker?
 

CrimsonWave

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If it were done by machine, the ripples would be flatter since you couldn't as easily control where and how you fed the excess cloth into the sleevehead and where it was stitched.
Will have some with that experience shortly.
That looks like a reasonably good example - who's the maker?


Thank you for that. Perhaps flatter ripples would mean that the puff is not too obvious, which might not be a bad thing.

This maker is Ruben Bakker: http://www.rubenbakker.nl/besproken/fotostream/?afg0_page_id=1
 

CrimsonWave

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I've only ever seen this done on shirts in plain fabrics. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether such a feature would be suitable for striped or checked fabrics too?
 

Zarium

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I think this is called a shirred sleeve(head)?

I have two T&A shirts with shirring where the sleeve meets the cuff.
 
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Roger Everett

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Looks like a real PITA to iron. Though if I were to have a shirt with similar look, it would need to be on a more casual shirt ( and deffinitly a no-iron, wrinkel free ), since I generally keep my jacket on, when wearing one.
 
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bboysdontcryy

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Tropicalist

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I don't know. Looks like a tailoring mistake to me or something too girly and blouse like. Most tailors would say they have spent years trying to make sure such mistake do no occur in their sewing.
 

Cantabrigian

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There's no way that looks like a mistake.

Your other criticism might be valid.
 

Ich_Dien

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Quite a regular feature on Borrelli or other high end RTW too.
 

bboysdontcryy

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There's no way that looks like a mistake.
Your other criticism might be valid.


Might you forget that you and I are approaching this topic (and appreciating this sleeve effect) with the eyes of a sartorial veteran?


I think that the choice of whether or not the OP should use this sleeve effect turns on whether the OP is dressing for his own pleasure or for mass appeal. In the former scenario, by all means. In the latter scenario, the test would be 'What a common person would think about such a sleeve'.

However, in all likelihood, most men (I dare not speak for women), might wonder why the wearer failed to iron his shirt (or they might well not notice it, unless it's as obvious as the sleeves in the picture)!
 
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