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Gathered shirt shoulders

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 
I came across a website of a shirtmaker recently, in which a gathered sleevehead and sleeve was discussed. This feature shows up as ripples on the sleevehead and the seam between the cuff and the sleeve. This effect is accomplished by pulling a bigger sleeve into a bigger armhole, resulting in a somewhat "puffed" shoulder/sleeve finish. Apparently this is called "Spalla con Grinze".



Does anyone have experience with this? Also, would it make a difference if the sewing on the sleevehead/sleeve is machine stitched and not hand stitched?
post #2 of 29
If it were done by machine, the ripples would be flatter since you couldn't as easily control where and how you fed the excess cloth into the sleevehead and where it was stitched.

Will have some with that experience shortly.

That looks like a reasonably good example - who's the maker?
post #3 of 29
http://www.emanuelemaffeis.it/eng/camicie.html

Emanuele Maffeis from Bergamo, Italy is offering this an option too. It actually looks interesting.
post #4 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

If it were done by machine, the ripples would be flatter since you couldn't as easily control where and how you fed the excess cloth into the sleevehead and where it was stitched.
Will have some with that experience shortly.
That looks like a reasonably good example - who's the maker?

Thank you for that. Perhaps flatter ripples would mean that the puff is not too obvious, which might not be a bad thing.

This maker is Ruben Bakker: http://www.rubenbakker.nl/besproken/fotostream/?afg0_page_id=1
post #5 of 29
Thread Starter 
I've only ever seen this done on shirts in plain fabrics. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether such a feature would be suitable for striped or checked fabrics too?
post #6 of 29

I think this is called a shirred sleeve(head)?

 

I have two T&A shirts with shirring where the sleeve meets the cuff.

post #7 of 29
Looks like a real PITA to iron. Though if I were to have a shirt with similar look, it would need to be on a more casual shirt ( and deffinitly a no-iron, wrinkel free ), since I generally keep my jacket on, when wearing one.
post #8 of 29
facepalm.gif

Thankfully, shirts like that don't come in non-iron...
post #9 of 29
I am of the opinion that the less exaggerated variation of this 'waterfall' treatment would be more elegant and less likely to be mistaken as a poorly executed shirt (unless you live in Italy, or on the forum)

Foo's shirt is a good example --

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/mfanblog/matuozzoshirt/shirring1.jpg
post #10 of 29
I don't know. Looks like a tailoring mistake to me or something too girly and blouse like. Most tailors would say they have spent years trying to make sure such mistake do no occur in their sewing.
post #11 of 29
There's no way that looks like a mistake.

Your other criticism might be valid.
post #12 of 29
Quite a regular feature on Borrelli or other high end RTW too.
post #13 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

There's no way that looks like a mistake.
Your other criticism might be valid.

Might you forget that you and I are approaching this topic (and appreciating this sleeve effect) with the eyes of a sartorial veteran?


I think that the choice of whether or not the OP should use this sleeve effect turns on whether the OP is dressing for his own pleasure or for mass appeal. In the former scenario, by all means. In the latter scenario, the test would be 'What a common person would think about such a sleeve'.

However, in all likelihood, most men (I dare not speak for women), might wonder why the wearer failed to iron his shirt (or they might well not notice it, unless it's as obvious as the sleeves in the picture)!
post #14 of 29

I let you be the judge...

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

New bespoke shirts on the rather very extreme side, athletic model without darts and loads of unnecessary handywork decorum.

700
554
375
post #15 of 29
Objectively speaking, the second picture (with reference to the sleeves) looks quite bad. But, opinion is subjective.

The fit of the shirt on the body is good though on the slim side.

Thank you for the pictures -- good to see how it looks when worn.
Edited by bboysdontcryy - 11/16/12 at 2:44am
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