Originally Posted by VRaivio
My search on SF didn't come up with a detailed answer. I've read elsewhere that Ralph Lauren came up with unstructured (as in no shoulder padding or chest canvas) tailored jackets, another source mentioned Naples' very own Attolini. Italy seems most likely, given their climate, but someone must know a source or two.
While pretty much everybody was looking to copy what was being done on Savile Row at the turn of the 20th century, the Italians copied certain elements from the British and kept others from their own tradition. Domenico Caraceni of Rome wrote a treatise on his "new style" of soft tailoring in 1933, and is thought by many to be the father of Italian tailoring. Rubinacci hired Vincenzo Attolini (who was working for Caraceni) in the 1930s, who then "invented" the soft Neapolitan-style jacket, though he was clearly inspired and influenced by Caraceni's work.