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How did Giorgio Armani change menswear? - Page 2

post #16 of 31
Armani made Pat Reilly look great............
post #17 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by FidelCashflow View Post

To be fair lots of brands make some things that are butt ugly at one point or another - if you have a brand 20 years old and you don't have a few misses, you're not taking any risks. I've seen Brioni polyester sportcoats from the 70's that would make your eyes bleed (I can't find pics unfortunately - it was an ebay auction, and it was hilarious.)
One thing to note with Armani - 90% of people who think of Armani thing of Armani Collezioni which is their diffusion label - watered down to be cheaper and accounts for 90% of the Armani clothes you will see out there. Collezioni makes lots of stuff with synthetics which can often be hideous, but even they have a few pieces which are very impressive every now and again. The "real deal" is Giorgio Armani black label which is very nice indeed - on part with E. Zegna. If I could afford to, I'd happily pick up a few black label suits.

You do realize that Armani Collezoni is his collaboration with Zegna right? meaning that the newer Collezoni stuff is Zegna made or at least recently was because this stuff changes very often. But i think you mean 90% is AX, or mani, or whatever else but Collezoni is def not the one that is watering down the brand
post #18 of 31
thanks for that informed point of view Jeffrey. the textures of the fabrics were interesting (not tweed, not worsted) and so was drapiness. the suits felt really good even if they didn't necessarily fit so well.
as far as brand dilution, i think mani was definitely an example, but so is collezioni. i've got some older stuff tagged just giorgio armani from the pre-collezioni days (also from before I finally came to my senses and realized that's not the cut for me), and it's really well made.
i think also that because armani is the guy who got american men interested in wearing suits again, his brand was probably elevated beyond reality ... and when that happens, there's the inevitable "emperor has no clothes" reaction. he's neither as good as he was touted to be nor as bad as current SF wisdom would have it.
post #19 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by foodguy View Post

... and when that happens, there's the inevitable "emperor has no clothes" reaction. he's neither as good as he was touted to be nor as bad as current SF wisdom would have it.

Definitely. I would wear most of those old suits in a heartbeat, and I can see that style coming back in fashion in a decade or so, possibly sooner.
post #20 of 31
Yeah you are right that both are both watering down the brand but Collezoni is still not affordable for many people in that their suits are still high 1k-2.5k while mani/ax/whatever else sell their stuff for like 200 bucks. Take note that black label (the non Fatto A mano) and collezoni are not that far off from each other when it comes to price. if i remember correctly last time i checked at bergdorfs and barneys the starting for the regular black label was about 2.5k while collezoni was in the high 1k's, 1.7k if i remember correctly.
post #21 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivar View Post

Definitely. I would wear most of those old suits in a heartbeat, and I can see that style coming back in fashion in a decade or so, possibly sooner.
embarrassed confession: I've got an old giorgio armani one-button suit, really low gorge, but i wear it occasionally when i get one of those invitations that says something like "black tie cocktail" or similarly nonsensical. the fabric is great and it looks just different enough that i think it's cool. please don't judge me.
post #22 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by foodguy View Post

embarrassed confession: I've got an old giorgio armani one-button suit, really low gorge, but i wear it occasionally when i get one of those invitations that says something like "black tie cocktail" or similarly nonsensical. the fabric is great and it looks just different enough that i think it's cool. please don't judge me.

Looks splendid, I'm sure! Generally, I think a lot of supposedly "dated" garments can look fine if you get the fit right and know how to rock them.
post #23 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivar View Post

Looks splendid, I'm sure! Generally, I think a lot of supposedly "dated" garments can look fine if you get the fit right and know how to rock them.
of if you're so old and out of it nobody expects better!icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #24 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post

You do realize that Armani Collezoni is his collaboration with Zegna right? meaning that the newer Collezoni stuff is Zegna made or at least recently was because this stuff changes very often. But i think you mean 90% is AX, or mani, or whatever else but Collezoni is def not the one that is watering down the brand

Yes - I certainly was referring to Collezioni - the white label collection as being the one watering down the brand.
The suits are fused and they tend to use lots of synthetic fibres especially in their sport coats. The collaboration with Zegna ended years ago, and their current line is certainly not to E. Zegna standards. It's still pricey - waaaay out of my range, but the suits are all fused, that's for sure. That being said, they still do produce some pretty nice stuff every now and again - I just picked up a scarf from them.
post #25 of 31
No more Zegna connection.
post #26 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by FidelCashflow View Post

Yes - I certainly was referring to Collezioni - the white label collection as being the one watering down the brand.
The suits are fused and they tend to use lots of synthetic fibres especially in their sport coats. The collaboration with Zegna ended years ago, and their current line is certainly not to E. Zegna standards. It's still pricey - waaaay out of my range, but the suits are all fused, that's for sure. That being said, they still do produce some pretty nice stuff every now and again - I just picked up a scarf from them.

Are you sure it ended that long ago? A few months ago i saw some suits at Barneys with the Zegna makers tag. Granted it could be old stock though. But i did manage to pull up this post from one of the old threads here, I'm not sure if its still relevant though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnoldh View Post


Quote:


Originally Posted by PaoloM View Post

I know there has been a lot of debate related to Armani, all the lines and quality issues. I am going to just put out some new info I got directly from a Armani Group director.


-Vestimenta, no longer has anything to do with producing Armani, this happened apparently a few years ago. Black Label and sometimes Emporio are produced by Borgo 21. Anything with a Borgo 21 tab means it was produced by the Armani company and not a contracted manufacturer. All black label "Giorgio Armani" products are CANVASSED. Fusing ended when Vestimenta got the boot.


-SiminT (spelling)- is now owned by Armani producing all casual/non formal Emporio Armani products. Just like Borgo 21, the SiminT label means it was made by Armani and not an outside company.


-Armani Collezioni "White Label" will no longer be up for purchase in Black Label stores and production will be cut for quality/quantity control. The 3rd US AC store was opened in what used to be the EA store on Madison in NYC. Dallas and Short Hills closed, but they were open at a time when AC is almost unknown in the US because Dept. stores were barely carrying it. In 2000 a joint venture with Zegna Group (51% Armani, 49% Zegna) for the production and distribution of the Armani Collezioni men's line replacing Mani and Le Collezioni. This ended recently and AC is now produced GFT, a company which Armani bought, so yes a GFT tab means....you get the point.


-Black Label is fully canvassed


-And did I mention the black label is now fully canvassed




post #27 of 31
Went to Harry Rosen and checked out the latest black label collection.

I did the pinch test and couldn't feel a canvass. To be honest, the Collezioni suits look nicer than the black label ones. Black label has a higher buttoning point and shorter jacket, while AC looked more classic.

Can anybody else confirm that black label is fused?
post #28 of 31
American Gigolo probably best captures GAs cultural impact at a certain point in time. However, to appreciate his sense of style via the prism of the classic age of men's style, proceed directly to Untouchables.
post #29 of 31

Best thing for Armani is to try and track down a copy of the book "Images of Man." My university library has it. It's basically the ad shots for every Armani collection up until '92. It's a look. I wouldn't wear most of it, but it's cool in its own dated way.

 

Despos has it right, of course -- it's that Thom Browne thing of taking tailored clothing and reinventing it as high fashion.

 

My only experience with anything new from Armani is the Exchange stuff -- it's a fun place to browse at the mall, because everything's so kitsch and awful. It's like a Jet-Ski you can wear.

post #30 of 31

Watched "Thief" From 1981 staring James Caan, noticed Giorgio Armani was credited as Costume designer.

 

But any way, as mentioned in the thread, it was the relaxed/drapy look he brought back. 

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