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London - MTM/Semi-bespoke suit advice needed (Budget: Below £1k)

Benzoid

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Hi everyone,

I'm new to SF and would like to seek some constructive advice. My budget is below £1k (preferably £800) and am aiming for MTM/Semi-bespoke tailor in London. I did my research and settled on a few places:

1) Alexandra Wood

2) Cad and the Dandy

3) Suit Supply.

I did look at Ede & Ravencroft who are having a sale on their MTM range (starting at £695) but that only entitles me to a consultation with a 'specialist', is cut from a tailoring block and is probably machine stitched. Steed also came in as a close contender (£850 I believe at a start for semi-bespoke) but I am not exactly appreciative of their style.

Ideally, the 2 piece suit which I want should be charcoal grey, constructed out of Super 100s-110s (anything above does not justify the cost for me), medium weight, modern slim fit and half/fully canvassed. I am very anxious to avoid a fused suit and full machine stitching.

In addition, the suit would be for every-day work.

Alexandra Wood appears to have an edge over the others at the moment, but I'm still trying to tweeze more information out of them. They do have quite an impressive clientele. However, I am not keen to break the bank and my key indicator is value i.e. which price gives me the most bang for buck with delicate tailoring to boot.

My questions are essentially twofold:

1) Out of the 3 tailors listed above (not sure if I would include Suitsupply as a tailor but there we go), which would you recommend? Note that I am currently in the process of visiting all 3. I also understand that Alexandra Wood is relatively unknown on this forum (did a search and there were too few relevant posts).

2) Are there any other tailors which you would strongly recommend apart from those listed?

Many thanks!
 

add911_11

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Is this like your first suit in your life?
 

Benzoid

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I made a MTM in Singapore before (but it was a poor construct, fused, badly cut and was outsourced to India/China) which cost only £175. So it's definitely not my first suit, but perhaps it's the first in my foray towards the semi-bespoke/bespoke quality.
 

terrorsquad

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What about Graham Browne?have seen some good results from them.
 

Benzoid

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I have heard mixed reviews about Grahame Browne but will check them out. Their prices may be slightly higher than £1k though?

I did use the search function and if it is not clear, I must emphasize that my main comparator would be Alexandra Wood (who, in my personal opinion, may be offering a slightly better deal) for which there is no proper precedent and/or comparison.

Welcoming constructive opinions.
 

Ich_Dien

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I have heard mixed reviews about Grahame Browne but will check them out. Their prices may be slightly higher than £1k though?

I did use the search function and if it is not clear, I must emphasize that my main comparator would be Alexandra Wood (who, in my personal opinion, may be offering a slightly better deal) for which there is no proper precedent and/or comparison.

Welcoming constructive opinions.



If you want advice then you should be looking around Graham Browne, Sims & MacDonald, Connock & Lockie etc. All of these have been covered in the past over the years, and although you are mentioning one (AW) I have not heard of myself - there are several well documented options that exist already. However, the £1000 mark certainly doesn't buy what it used to a few years ago and in my opinion there is no good "deal" so to speak around that price in London.

The search function is a constructive opinion - this topic has been covered extensively before. It is also plastered all over the front page not to start a thread like this without searching.
 
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Fred49

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Try Richard Anderson's line of RTW. I saw it in the shop on my last visit and tried on a few pieces. It fits wonderfully.
 

Benzoid

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Many thanks for all the advice given above! I will be heading down to Richard Anderson at the end of this week as well to pay them a visit.

I did check out Sims and Connock although they seem a bit too pricey for my option! Graham Browne is looking very attractive to me now as well as they seem to do quite a good conservative suit in the view of SF members.

Should be paying a visit to at least 4-5 tailors before I make my choice as I'm rather demanding on information.
 

DWRR

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I'd hand on my heart recommend Cad and the Dandy. They made my wedding suit and it is the most splendid thing.
 

bboysdontcryy

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If you want advice then you should be looking around Graham Browne, Sims & MacDonald, Connock & Lockie etc. All of these have been covered in the past over the years, and although you are mentioning one (AW) I have not heard of myself - there are several well documented options that exist already. However, the £1000 mark certainly doesn't buy what it used to a few years ago and in my opinion there is no good "deal" so to speak around that price in London.
The search function is a constructive opinion - this topic has been covered extensively before. It is also plastered all over the front page not to start a thread like this without searching.


I'm actually a little skeptical about graham Browne. Heard many good things about them, and decided to take a chance with them. Provided them with fabric, and had them make a suit.

I might be wrong but I think they cut from a house block (if not always, then at least on mine) -- Here's why -- When they took my measurements, not only did they NOT ask me to remove my suit which happened to be very well fitted, but they only took maybe 4 measurements (shoulders, arm length, chest etc).

How do you cut a pattern for somebody with only 4 measurements? First red flag.

When I went in for the basted fitting, the coat they put on me was 2 sizes too large. Whilst I understand that tailors usually have the basted garment larger, but this is 2 sizes too large with droopy armholes to boot. Second red flag that shows the coat was in all likelihood cut from a house block.

Ditto the trousers. Two sizes too large and terribly cut with creases everywhere. And what I was irked about was that he had the gall to ask me 'How do you feel about the trousers' as if he thought that nothing more needed to be done, and it seemed that he wasn't going to do anything to them unless I pointed out the problems.

Now, if it's clear that the trousers were near perfect, fine, but it was terrible. When pinning the jacket and trousers, he offered no input and didn't offer to correct glaring mistakes until I pointed them out. I was fortunate to have had many garments made up before so I was lucky to know what to ask for, and what needed to be corrected.

Hence, I honestly would not recommend a first-timer, or somebody venturing for the first time into bespoke menswear to try out Graham Browne. I'd recommend you stick to a more reputable company where the cutter is able to provide more guidance. People who get stuff done there probably either know what they want, or are contented with an ill-fitting suit (using the general standards of members of this forum as a benchmark for a well-cut suit).
 
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bboysdontcryy

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This pictorial review on Graham Browne puts the house in a terrible light-- http://www.styleforum.net/t/250290/graham-browne-bespoke-tailor-my-first-suit

I dare wager that Russell or whoever the cutter was then asked if the suit was okay, to which the poor chap who probably had no experience bespeaking a suit (and thus, no opinions of sorts) answered yes. The onus, really, is for the cutter to cut a suit that fits well, and not just rely on directions from the customer, especially when it's clear that the customer has had no experience.

Simon Crompton of thepermanentstyle probably knew what he wanted, and Graham Browne stood to gain from publicity as well, thus the well cut suits. If it's your virginal foray (and you don't know much about bespeaking a suit), don't go to Graham Browne.
 
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Benzoid

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Oh dear, I actually read both that thread and Simon's review before knowing about Graham Browne. Should have known better and stayed far away from there then.

Seems like Cad and the Dandy is a more trusted service.
 

Macallan

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I think you should re-consider Ede & Ravenscroft's MTM option - it is machine-stitched; however, from their RTW you get a good idea of the fit and if you like their style, you would be better of going to E&R rathen then get someone to copy their style.

If you visit Cad & The Dandy, go to the Savile Row location - more cloth options. I would recommend them as an option and they fit within your budget for a semi-bespoke and bespoke suit.
 

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