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post #496 of 832

this might be a horribly stupid question, but I tried on a linen suit and the pants were fairly sheer...so that my boxers clearly were visible, and the pocket linings were also visible.  Is that common to all linen suits, or was the one I tried just poorly woven? Sorry in advance.

post #497 of 832
Quote:
Originally Posted by insomniac341 View Post

this might be a horribly stupid question, but I tried on a linen suit and the pants were fairly sheer...so that my boxers clearly were visible, and the pocket linings were also visible.  Is that common to all linen suits, or was the one I tried just poorly woven? Sorry in advance.

It's going to be pretty sheer unless you opt for lining or heavier weight linen, both of which will make it less breathable. The MC guys prefer their heavier linens, but I also think there's a place for the really lightweight ones for the really humid days.

The solution is to wear undies that are lighter and solid coloured, as close as possible match to your skin tone is best.
post #498 of 832
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post



The solution is to wear undies that are lighter and solid coloured, as close as possible match to your skin tone is best.

or alternatively polka dot boxers

post #499 of 832
Where can I find something like this shape, except in a non-polyester blend fabric. (Or should I just not care that this is poly blend?)

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100
post #500 of 832
wear spanx under your linen suit
post #501 of 832
Quote:

A bit late but Dries suits are cut like Raf / Jil pretty sleek but construction doesn't warrant the price in any way
post #502 of 832
Just wondering, but could you elaborate? Is it because the jackets aren't canvassed (actually, are all not canvassed or are there some that are?) Any particular issues? And are you comparing to Jil/Raf with regard to price or some other brands?
post #503 of 832
this billy ried number looks like a good summer suit

post #504 of 832
Thread Starter 

yeah, fabric looks nice and light. 

 

sidebar: I can't stand that wrinkling that happens btwn the collar and shoulder. There's probably some tailor term for this and a reason such as improperly rotated sleeves or maybe just that it's unlined, but I find this fairly common on a lot of stuff and it drives me nuts. it's not a big deal on something really soft or chunky or already wrinkly... but on a jacket that's supposed to be crisp it irks. 

 

did I mention it bugs me?  ;-)

post #505 of 832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oski View Post


From the WAYWT thread: Oski in MMM.
post #506 of 832

A few from my inspiration folder

 

Number (N)ine

 

Soloist/Nepenthes

 

EG

 

 

 

Soloist

 

Phenomenon

 

Our Legacy iirc

post #507 of 832
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

Just wondering, but could you elaborate? Is it because the jackets aren't canvassed (actually, are all not canvassed or are there some that are?) Any particular issues? And are you comparing to Jil/Raf with regard to price or some other brands?

Haven't seen a dries suit recently but past experience with the are that they are cut nice and slim, high armholes and drape quite nicely. But some were fused / some were canvassed, no handiwork, fabric colors nice but feel iffy, and just seem a bit off in a sense in terms of how it feels in my hand. Had a Jil suit I sold and Raf ones too, thought fabrics were a bit better. Just used them as they are more designerish and similar style. For a "designer" suit price is more reasonable but I'd stick to more CM suits, especially as some of the ones can be had on yoox or b&s for quite cheap (450-700 range). I'd kop a dries suit if I liked it for maybe $500 max, but even then I'd feel I'm pushing it. But a suit is all about cut and fit, construction could arguably be second in line so it's how you want to look at it.
post #508 of 832
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

yeah, fabric looks nice and light. 

sidebar: I can't stand that wrinkling that happens btwn the collar and shoulder. There's probably some tailor term for this and a reason such as improperly rotated sleeves or maybe just that it's unlined, but I find this fairly common on a lot of stuff and it drives me nuts. it's not a big deal on something really soft or chunky or already wrinkly... but on a jacket that's supposed to be crisp it irks. 

did I mention it bugs me?  ;-)

Are you talking about the pitch? This is something that just can't be corrected with a big tailoring bill, and then, you put a lot of trust in your guy. The rare time I return something is when the pitch of the sleeve if off. Of course, I mostly wear jersey and otherwise "non-crispy" jackets, so it's not that much of an issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post

Haven't seen a dries suit recently but past experience with the are that they are cut nice and slim, high armholes and drape quite nicely. But some were fused / some were canvassed, no handiwork, fabric colors nice but feel iffy, and just seem a bit off in a sense in terms of how it feels in my hand. Had a Jil suit I sold and Raf ones too, thought fabrics were a bit better. Just used them as they are more designerish and similar style. For a "designer" suit price is more reasonable but I'd stick to more CM suits, especially as some of the ones can be had on yoox or b&s for quite cheap (450-700 range). I'd kop a dries suit if I liked it for maybe $500 max, but even then I'd feel I'm pushing it. But a suit is all about cut and fit, construction could arguably be second in line so it's how you want to look at it.

For me, the fit and material are much more important than construction. You have to ask yourself "Why do I need feature X? Or handiwork?" If it's because you enjoy the details, well, there is no arguing with that. But, to adopt Parker's language, for a non-"crispy" washed denim sports jacket, or whatever, you don't need an impeccable lapel roll. Actually, I'm not even sure what that would look like. And a distressed sportsjacket does not call for hand sewn button holes, while in a CM suit, they are really beautiful.
post #509 of 832

dbl


Edited by recneps56 - 4/14/13 at 12:26pm
post #510 of 832
Thread Starter 

not the sleeve pitch, but whatever this wrinkly spot is. I've noticed on almost every unlined/unpadded jacket I've tried. again... not really an issue with rougher, more casual fabrics. I think it might be the lack of any padding in the shoulder. there's just no structure to keep things smooth across there.

 

 

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