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ok, so who makes a completely soft shouldered overcoat avail in NYC? - Page 2

post #16 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee_44106 View Post

Bespoke is not always the answer.

It's the answer far more often that overpriced RTW.
post #17 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by hip_priest View Post

I bought a coat very similar to what you described at Borrelli in August - navy blue, 100% cashmere, no padding on the shoulders. It's very light to wear. I don't know what they have in stock now, but it may be worth giving them a ring.
if buying OTR, then take a look at Loro Piana. They also have a selection of overcoats similar to what you described.
post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
I'm sure you're right-- but time always seems to be against me. I'm working overseas, and only in the USA for a limited time, so will use the coat in November in the city. However, even when I've been living permanently in the USA, haven't liked the look of the bespoke tailors like Ercole and others, just not for me. I DO want to give Napoli Su Misura a try in 2013 tho, like the shape / cut / shoulders they make while avoiding the hourglass look of jackets, etc. till then, i depend on the good cloth and construction of better ready to wear, while I'm making much more $$ than when I'm back home living in the real world/ reality smile.gif

Got an appointment to go see what Seize Sur Vignt has to offer....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

Jesus, dude - why in the world would you spend $5K on an OTR overcoat??
Go to Beckenstein's - choose from dozens of cashmere overcoatings - buy a length and take it to Ercole. He'll do it in a month, provided you let him know your timing / schedule beforehand.
Much better product for $2,500 less.
post #19 of 24
If 5K is truly your budget, then you can go to tailors far pricier than Ercole.

My broader point is that you seem to blow a lot of money on high-end RTW. From the pics I have seen, the clotes have served you well, but they are not exceptional and certainly not worth the money you've spent (no fault of yours, its the nature of RTW). I realize that timing these visits is tough for you, but I strong suggest you take a bit longer to get the requsite fittings in.

Over the long term, you'll be much happier that you went bespoke. There's a reason why the most noted dressers on this forum (Manton, Foo, whnay, Vox etc. etc.) are bespoke customers.
post #20 of 24
As an aside, Will has praised Manolo Costa - he may be worth a look. I've had a few conversations with him and he seems firmly in the soft-shouldered camp. His turnaround is also about 4 weeks.

http://manolocosta.com/

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/07/manolo-costa.html
post #21 of 24
I managed to find an Isaia overcoat with no padding and the shirt shoulder construction at one of their sample sales. But i have yet to see them in the stores maybe you can do MTM from saks/bergdorfs?
post #22 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

If 5K is truly your budget, then you can go to tailors far pricier than Ercole.
My broader point is that you seem to blow a lot of money on high-end RTW. From the pics I have seen, the clotes have served you well, but they are not exceptional and certainly not worth the money you've spent (no fault of yours, its the nature of RTW). I realize that timing these visits is tough for you, but I strong suggest you take a bit longer to get the requsite fittings in.
Over the long term, you'll be much happier that you went bespoke. There's a reason why the most noted dressers on this forum (Manton, Foo, whnay, Vox etc. etc.) are bespoke customers.

Ive always though foxx looked good in his Brioni suits. certainly head and shoulders above a lot of the "bespoke" disasters you see here. Of course we are comparing apples to oranges here and a bespoke tailor in his price range would not make those mistakes.
post #23 of 24
^ There are a couple of bespoke threads that have gained much prominence on the various internet forums. For example, the (in)famous "three tailors" thread on LL. If you guys genuinely think the vast majority of bespoke looks like that, tailors on SR, Naples and elsewhere would not still be in business.
post #24 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric View Post

^ There are a couple of bespoke threads that have gained much prominence on the various internet forums. For example, the (in)famous "three tailors" thread on LL. If you guys genuinely think the vast majority of bespoke looks like that, tailors on SR, Naples and elsewhere would not still be in business.

+1, it's hard to get such bad results from a decent tailor. You would need to have a extraordinarily weird body and a major communication breakdown (probably caused by a misuse of tailoring jargon picked up on the web).
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