Originally posted in MC; was recc'd to post here instead.
Wanted to put together a look that can be worn in the evenings to cocktail lounges, hotel bars, rooftop spots, etc. Was hoping to play off texture contrasts.
If it matters: I'm 6’ 175lb, tan skin tone, black near-shoulder-length wavy hair. My build is not really stocky; nor am I super tall & waif-like.
Sports Coat
-Going Bespoke vs MTM.
-Style: Upscale sport coat with some evening-wear smoking/dinner jacket elements thrown in just for fun.
-Fabric: Velvet.
-Construction: Relatively unstructured, soft shoulders; more Neapolitan styling; (+) waist suppression, relatively higher arm holes.
-Jacket Length: should end to just cover my butt.
-Color: Midnight Blue.
-Peaked Lapels vs Shawl Collar? (Not sure if peaked lapels will work well with a jacket that has softer shoulders; hence shawl collar might be the better option.)
-Guidance on Lapel width? (unsure what width shawl collar to specify for a sport coat like this; guessing half way out to shoulder might be too wide?)
-Lapel Facings: Grosgrain. But should color be Midnight Blue or Black? (assuming SC is done up in midnight blue).
-Vents: 2 side vents vs Unvented?
-Leaning towards 2 side vents; may look better for rare times when hands are in pockets.
-Although Unvented might produce a more sleek silhouette.
-Unsure which option would be better as I rarely put hands in pockets (especially when wearing Jeans.)
-Jacket Button & Stance
-Leaning towards Linked button (or 1-button.)
-(If Shawl Collar, perhaps a lower button stance would look better?)
-Button located at belly button (or perhaps slightly below it?)
-(Am guessing button stance is user-dependent on torso length?)
-Waist Pockets
-Straight (not slanted.)
-Besom.
-Sewn shut.
-Trimmed with whatever facing is on lapel.
-Breast Pocket: welt.
-Jacket Cuffs: Turnback Cuffs.
-Functional button holes (4).
Shirt
-MTM.
-High-collared Dress Shirt.
-Worn without Tie; top buttons open.
-Color: White.
-Collar
-worn open.
-no button down.
-should be crisp and stand tall/high (not too tall for head size though).
-collar must stay within jacket lapels.
-What style?
-Point? Medium Spread vs Not a lot of spread?
-Definitely not a cutaway.
-Cuff: Barrel vs Mitred vs Cocktail vs other?
-(not sure what may pair well with turnback cuff of Velvet SC.)
-Covered button placket.
-No pockets.
-Slim Fit.
-Worn tucked in.
Pocket Square
-White Silk
-No TV fold
Jeans
-Slim fit raw denim.
-Not cuffed.
-Dark Indigo or Black? (Already own a pair of indigo APC NS chain stitched at self edge to address excessive stacking issues; thinking about picking up another brand's pair in black if I can build a look around it.) (Not sure which brand's cut would be most flattering for me just yet.)
Boots
-Black Leather Dress Boot.
-Toe Box: Sleek & Pointed or Rounded? (Might a sleeker, more-pointed toe look out of place with raw denim jeans?)
-If going with Black boot, would that mean jean choice ought to be Black raw denim? (if assumption that a black boot doesn’t pair as well with indigo raw denim jeans is accurate?)
-Prefer Boots to other styles of shoes for this look. (Although would be interested to hear thoughts on if upcoming Carmina Python Austerity Brogue from Epaulet could be paired with this look? ... my gut reaction is to say No, as it might be too over-the-top & flashy.)
Apologies if my questions are coming off as spam. I'm just looking for some help; any advice would be appreciated.
