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Styleforum Centralia Knitting Mills Varsity Jackets - New

post #1 of 42
Thread Starter 
I am arranging a group-buy and wanted to start a new thread so people are not confused. I took the information from shoreman1782 who managed the last group buy and he has been so kind as to give his input about the process so anyone interested just pm and will send you a gmail shared spreadsheet that will be used to take orders. Clearly this is a smaller company, which is not used to really small runs such as this so we want to be cognizant as we set expectations. Additionally, it's important to note that in northshore's experience, skookum used about a 6-inch allowance in the chest, so a size 42 jacket measured approx. 24 inches pit to pit (that allowance MAY scale down in smaller sizes, best to ask Centralia). I will communicate with Centralia to confirm these facts.

To place an order:
Pm with your email address or email me at with questions or if you would like to join the order.

As has been discussed on a few occasions before, Centralia Knitting Mills has been making dandy woolen products in Washington state since 1939, and they make a sweet varsity/letterman jacket. The American-made quality, never-changed-never-needed-to-change styling, and tradition of heritage have a lot of appeal for Styleforum types. Lines like Engineered Garments have (reportedly) used CKM as a maker for knitwear, and their custom varsity/letterman jackets fetch $300+ on Rakuten. They use 24 oz. boiled melton wool (all virgin) and full-grain leather to craft jackets that are little different today than they were 30 years ago or more.

The specs:

"¢\t24 oz. boiled melton wool body
"¢\tFull-grain leather raglan sleeves
"¢\t"Swiss knit" wool foldover collar, cuffs, and hem
"¢\tSnap button front
"¢\tLeather trim at pockets
"¢\tNylon lining
"¢\tAthletic cut for ease of movement"”Centralia is not Balenciaga or ToJ. Sizing down may give you a less full cut, but unfortunately I will not be able to accept returns. I stole a size chart from a .jp site to give people an idea of sizes.

SizeShoulder \tchest\t length\t sleeve
36(s) \t44cm\t54cm \t61cm \t62cm
38(m) \t46\t57\t64 \t63
40(l) \t49 \t59 \t68 \t65


38(m)\t18\t22.5 \t25\t25
40(l) \t19.5\t23 \t26 \t25.5
42(xl) \t20\t24.5\t27.5\t26.5

Larger sizes and extralong arms are available.

The fare:
Expected final price, including CONUS shipping, will be $175.
If you would like international shipping, contact me and we'll figure something out.

We are trying to finalize orders sooner than later (order deadline October 17) so, with the estimated 6-week lead time, the jackets should be ready in early December.

Color options are below the form, rendered as well as possible with my crappy point and shoot.

SIZE (numerical):
SNAP COLOR (snaps generally match body color):
KNIT COLOR (collar, cuffs, hem):
STRIPE STYLE (Single, Double, Triple; feathered or not)
WEARER HEIGHT (yes, CKM requests):
WEARER WEIGHT(yes, CKM requests):

Wool colors:

Leather colors:

Knit trim swatch sheet (for sweaters, but just for reference--knit trim colors correspond roughly with melton colors)

Sample CKM jackets

post #2 of 42
Do you know if it's possible to get the sort of "melange" wool for the ribbing? As seen on Archival Clothing Sweaters and some Japanese Skookum make-ups?
post #3 of 42
Anyone got links to the jap sites selling these varsities? Need more color references.
post #4 of 42
Also, if we go stripes on the cuffs/collar, does it have to be a black stripe?

EDIT: never mind. Missed some fine print. Still curious what exactly "feathered" means though.
Edited by dixonmanor - 10/10/12 at 4:06pm
post #5 of 42
I got my jacket in the last group buy. I'll see if I can find the pics and if I can give you guys some advice.
post #6 of 42
Originally Posted by Flieger View Post

I got my jacket in the last group buy. I'll see if I can find the pics and if I can give you guys some advice.

That be great. My main concern is fit on if the XS will fit someone 5'5 around 150lbs. I assume I can always get the sleeves slimmed down afterwards if the body works.
post #7 of 42
Thread Starter 
thanks flieger..if u pm with questions or email them to me I can call Skokum and get a sense of it, but I don't want to call till I have at least 6 people who are in..right now we are at 3
post #8 of 42
some .jp colourways

skookum スタジャン

skookum 通販


some pretty wild customs full leather, buffalo nickel buttons and so on

I would however assume any other body shapes, full melton, marl ribbing, zippers etc ..

will add cost and may be difficult unless we all order the same thing but id be curious about further options
post #9 of 42
Thanks for the links Eccles, found a damn near exact colorway I'm leaning towards, air force blue body, cream sleeves, solid gold ribbing. (left one, linked pic).

Regretted not jumping on board the first time round.
post #10 of 42
Let's get some more people signed up! Excited to finally get my hands on one of these jackets...
post #11 of 42
Thread Starter 
still only got two people on it
post #12 of 42
Well, I'm in, just see-sawing back and forth between color combos... Will have my order submitted in the next day or so.
post #13 of 42
I'm in just sent you an email. hoping to re create a gant rugger varsity i missed out on a few years back.
post #14 of 42
Thread Starter 
We are finally at 6 so looks like we will be a go. I will circulate an email within the next day or so to discuss next steps, including any additional comments, finalizing order specifics, payments and expectations.
post #15 of 42
I'm still waiting on some sizing advice before I commit. Wondering if an XS will be too short for someone 5'5 and if the arms will be slimmer fit
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