Calf or Cordovan? Probably Edward Green

Calf as first choice or Cordovan with double sole and brass buckles

You haven't decided between monk or boot? You should do this first or are you asking for people to convince you one way or the other? Are you doing an MTO or buying RTW? Makes a difference with respect to being able to find cordovan in either. What will you wear the monk or boot with? Suits? Odd jackets & trousers? Casual wear? Double or single monk? Balmoral boot or open lacing? More info would help people give you ideas.

RTW EG shoes and boots in cordovan rare. Leather Soul has the Troon single monk in shell. EG balmoral boots are few and far between in any kind of leather outside of MTO. Leffot has the Epsom (in a black colour way) and Leather Soul has the Shannon in coffee suede. I don't know of any others out there and none in cordovan. There are several EG non-balmoral RTW boots available although not in shell AFAIK: Galway, Nevis & Alderley. I'm not including Chukkas here.

Maybe others can chime in here but you'd do well to elaborate on what you are looking for.

calf.

IMO, cordovan is best for beater shoes in chunky lasts with double soles.

Can you elaborate on why? I'm curious.

It's a waxy leather, a pull up. It's thick and stiff and can take quite a bit off abuse, the tradeoff being that it doesn't breathe particularly well. To me feels like a halfway medium between the stuff that waxy work boots are made out of and normal dress shoes. I think that's part of the reason for it's historical popularity - you can beat the shit out of it, and then give it a brush and it'll look presentable. Certainly the more famous shell models have been casual shoes - the classic #08 longwing is pretty chunky.

I find calf to be more luxurious and elegant for sleek dress shoes - oxfords, sleek monks etc.

OTOH I have seen some nice looking sleek cordovan models - Carmina seems to excel in this department. I can't help but think they'd be as good or better in calf though.
Edited by hendrix - 10/6/12 at 10:27pm

This is StyleForum yo, make it a double monk boot in chisel lasts with #8 shell cordovan leather and beveled sole and cuban heels. bonus points for using gunmetal color shell cordovan.

Westminster is a elegant style - something I would get for myself definitely in calf (they are especially gorgeous on the 888 last in dark oak antique or bronze antique)

Sturdier boots in cordovan - why not?

As others have posted, I'd get the monk in calf and boot in shell with a double sole. The sleek last on the monk will look much better in calf whereas the boot will be better able to handle rough duty in shell with a double sole.

Excellent explanation, thank you.

I say get the EG Hove's or their RL counterpart...there's a pair for sale on the B&S...and the Carmina Balmoral Cordovan boots..
Depending on your size..there's a few pairs of Lindricks for sale on the 'Bay.