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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 581

post #8701 of 16286

Like @kieran84 said, I just don't see a giant conglomerate like Kering giving sole control over items designed and funded in-house to anyone, no matter how good his contract is. Hedi may have negotiated ownership of some odd details here and there, but I'm guessing it's minor stuff only.

 

If they were going to give him sole control over everything he's designed, surely they would have insisted he sign a longer contract, if they had any foresight.

post #8702 of 16286

Yeah, it'd be crazy. The only work he could maybe have ownership of, if these claims of an IP clause are legitimate, could possibly be the photos he took for ads, but even that seems like a stretch.

post #8703 of 16286
Quote:
Originally Posted by kieran84 View Post
 

I know almost nothing about the legal side of this, but from a common sense point of view, it would surely be impossible to take something as common as a two button notch lapel blazer and stake some kind of claim over it because of the particular cut / proportion.


You're right. Clothing doesn't fall under the requirements of patentable 'novelty' in the arts or sciences. nor does it come under a literary, artistic or musical work for copyright. things are said to be artists when they are graphics, or potentially as a sculptures (think of belt buckles) so long as they're attributes are regarded as aesthetic as compared to utilitarian.

 

the fashion industry would not be able to survive if ip rights attached to everything. on the other hand, a lot of people think that the lack of protection actually enables a greater creative field as well as incentives.

post #8704 of 16286
Quote:
Originally Posted by b19pen15 View Post
 

Yeah, it'd be crazy. The only work he could maybe have ownership of, if these claims of an IP clause are legitimate, could possibly be the photos he took for ads, but even that seems like a stretch.

 

that's a really good point. he may have negotiated that the house pay a license to use his photos for ads. but I doubt it.

 

the only reasonable thing I could think of would be use of his name on his work going forward. but that's only obliquely an ip issue. if you're interested look up an authors moral right under copyright legislation.

post #8705 of 16286
you know what fashion's going to be like after hedi leaves? let me introduce you to valentino's "funky dragon" collection

http://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/men/valentino-dragon-embroidered-jacket-item-11298388.aspx?storeid=9336&ffref=lp_pic_29_4_

i think obviously kering will retain designs. whether they use them is another question.
post #8706 of 16286

^ looks like I might finally be able to save some money after this year...

post #8707 of 16286

only same as putting a dinosaur on the back.

 

or a dog or a shark on the front.

post #8708 of 16286

yeah but that dino piece was pretty special in person. the embroidery was nuts. plus the Mexican blanket style looked so cool over top of the flannels. the difference is in the nuance.

post #8709 of 16286





Seller said it's the FW13 version. Can anyone help me to check the authenticity? Thanks
post #8710 of 16286
Quote:
Originally Posted by neonrider View Post

on the contrary, every single person i've talked to in london and paris and nyc who should know whether hedi is out has indeed confirmed that hedi is out, and no longer even regularly at sl la atelier. notably, kering did not deny the latter rumor, only the first one. chanel c-level changes are an obvious sign that karl is shaking things up. i'd ignore the newbies in this thread (as usual). the only fan fiction here is by styleforum types.

now, i'm not saying it's "true". but whether or not it is true is certainly and obviously worthy of discussion, given that this thread did not exist before and won't exist much afterwards. especially worthier than "r my oversized skinny jeannzzz too biggg??!" shitposts.

and yes, apparently hedi does indeed have an ip clause.

on a bigger level, one of the things that's eminently boring about style forum is the realists. the guys who only want to deal in facts, logic, "reality". this is usually also why they have such predictably boring style. style, of course, is about none of those things. realism in style invariably ends up with "which color margiela birdshits should i buy, guyzz?!", i.e. consensus seeking.

I really have no dog in this fight and to be honest, I could care less what homie does, whether he stay at Saint Laurent or go back to photography. But I do however think all the guessing is getting a little out of hand. Like SA's are going to leave the minute Hedi leaves Saint Laurent (when most of them were there before he was) and so on. Also, Hedi is a very secretive guy who keeps most everything to himself or in a very tight knit group. I don't see why every SA at every Saint Laurent store would be privy to the guys every thought and next move. But whatevs.
The fashion talk is nice however, it would just be nice to read something with a bit more substance. Maybe to the tune of designers becoming celebrities and detracting from what they actually design, the fast pace of fashion and how it's killing and burning out designers, or Hedi's ability to tap into culture and bringing a new movement within the fashion sector (like it or not). There's a lot out there to talk about surrounding these rumors that doesn't read like alien abductions.

One last thing, focusing on the sentence I bolded above. It's funny how contrary it all is because this is exactly the thing Hedi is known for. Designing real clothes for real people all based on garments that have already been done before. I mean the guy isn't exactly recreating the wheel here, he's putting out skinny jeans and motorcycle leather jackets. I'd say that's about as grounded in reality as one can get.

The real appeal of Hedi has always been his ability to tap into culture and make it all seem effortless. He really does practice what he preaches and it comes out in his clothing and has since his days at Dior Homme. It's what has made Saint Laurent a commercial success, because well, it's commercial clothing, and then it's put through the filter of what is actually happening in the streets.

But any way, I wish the guy the best of luck. He's an incredible creative and a great art director and curator of culture.
post #8711 of 16286
Quote:
Originally Posted by therattler View Post

yeah but that dino piece was pretty special in person. the embroidery was nuts. plus the Mexican blanket style looked so cool over top of the flannels. the difference is in the nuance.

All of these pieces were pretty awful. The moon landing stuff etc. Margiela has had t-shirts with similar embroidery if that's what's getting you all excited.
post #8712 of 16286

#hedileavesileave

post #8713 of 16286
Quote:
Originally Posted by winston86dit View Post

Like SA's are going to leave the minute Hedi leaves Saint Laurent (when most of them were there before he was) and so on. Also, Hedi is a very secretive guy who keeps most everything to himself or in a very tight knit group. I don't see why every SA at every Saint Laurent store would be privy to the guys every thought and next move.


You should probably visit an actual boutique before your spit nonsense. Most of the people claiming to leave were probably hired by Hedi personally. I know of about 7 employees in LA alone that Kering got rid of that were hired by Hedi.
post #8714 of 16286
lol, nobody's talking about sa's.

i highly doubt winston86 has actually worn or handled much saint laurent. far from "reproducing street fashion", hedi elevated it in pretty startling ways at ysl, much more so than at dior. who else thought of (much less made) things like blake soled motorcycle boots before...biker jackets made with the same precision and construction techniques as high end suits (check your L01 and L17)...destroyed jeans where the shredding itself became an art not an afterthought (the numerous techniques in your destroyeds)...flannels made from ultra luxe fabrics (not just super thick workwear fabrics)...bomber jackets redone with couture techniques...and that's just to name a very few things that happened on the men's side?

all that is indeed highly innovative in the stagnant world of men's fashion, not just interpretative. this stuff never existed before, not in thrift stores, not anywhere. one can claim, as fashion insiders like to do, that all that's "just a reproduction", but it's pretty clearly lazy thinking from people who don't really handle or own this stuff. needless to say, i don't think many of us would spend this kind of money on it if it was just a repro. it's truer of designers like margiela who did in fact often just aim to replicate vintage pieces, or designers like craig green and jw anderson who essentially copy various street styles without really elevating or innovating much.

but like i often say, and as @therattler points out, nuance is not exactly the strong point of styleforum.
post #8715 of 16286
can't wait for the clearout sale they have on all the permanent items after hedi leaves... gonna pick up a leather, destroyed jeans, and some jodphurs for cheep
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