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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 554

post #8296 of 16903
FWIW word on the inside is Hedi is going back to Dior. As awkward as that situation may seem, they're in desperate need of a replacement for Raf and are ready to give him 100% control (which is all what Hedi wants). If confirmed it will be interesting to see in what direction he takes DH (past like SLP or forward like his previous tenure). As for the future of SLP, Kering is faced with two choices: take a hack a la KVA (i.e Vaccarello) that will coat tail on Hedi's footprint or take on a confirmed designer (few of which are available, one in particular i heard is being strongly considered) that will again do a 180 with the house, such as reverting the name back to YSL, bring in a whole new aesthetic etc... regardless of the choices being made, it's safe to assume FW16 will be the last SLP collection as you know it. Hedi purists will have to follow Hedi wherever he goes as no substitute designer will fill-in his shoes properly.. Personally I think it would be time for Hedi to start his own label, he has a big enough audience and his ego seems too strong to be contained inside a big house and it's ever growing demands/pressure..
post #8297 of 16903

Replace Raf? but he did womenswear? and i thought KVA was pretty focused on Dior thats why he closed his own label which no one gave a shit about except the people who love his overlaced sneaker.

 

lol if hedi goes dior again i won't be affording much except maybe a shirt

 

i never visited slp boutique in my life and i want to before hedi leaves the house :(

 

if he goes there then he has to do resort and also haute couture

 

wy doesn't he make an appearance post show anymore :(

post #8298 of 16903
Mix of seasons...




FW15 silk bandana scarf
SS14 teddy blazer
SS13 babycat
FW15 zip detail denim
FW15 French 65 boot
post #8299 of 16903
i think the vaccarello rumor is BY the vaccarello camp. no one in their right mind would equate slimane with vaccarello, that's like equating a maserati with a tricked out racing mufflered blingtastic golf.

it would be nice if hedi went back to dior, because the quality of their production facilities is waaay higher, all my old dior pieces still hold up beautifully, especially the leathers are on a different level. but given that last time they fucked him over by demanding his name as a term of contract renewal and he walked like any sane person would, i'd be pretty surprised if he went back (i wouldn't. would you?).

also let's not forget it's only been *three short years* at ysl. it seems like forever, but honestly, just a few years ago, he'd never designed a women's line, or an accessories line, and was largely a forgotten designer with a dwindling cult following....that the fashion establishment hated with a vengeance. they set him up for failure universally at the time (go back and read some of the articles), and STILL won't give him credit for success, because it's only been three years. yet in these three years he's done a superhuman shitload at ysl, not just design, but rebranding, marketing, strategy, shows, production. that's a big investment for him to give up, too, because it would take a long time at dior to get all that stuff set up and right again.

the fashion establishment will never let hedi have his own label. he's the most accomplished and successful designer in the world today by a long way, but he still can't find the backing financially or politically--that's crazy, right? contrast him with people like haider ackermann or jw anderson, who have accomplished maybe a tenth of what hedi has, not just commercially, but also artistically, culturally, socially. i'd put that hate down to pure hardcore racism (why else does the fashion establishment hate him so much, so reflexively, so automatically? what else COULD he do to win their respect? he's reinvigorated not one but two historic brands, creating cult following after cult following, selling tons of clothes, winning the larger creative world's respect almost universally. let's be honest about all this: no other designer in the world has done any of this, certainly not those the fashion establishment DOES champion. so again, why the hate? why if not love or adulation, then at least basic respect for his accomplishments?), but racism's a subject for another discussion, and probably not one that this forum can handle, no offense to anyone.

lol there's my essay of the day, sorry, i don't mean to write them smile.gif

prudy that goddamned leather looks great man, you rock it perfectly. and thanks for fit pics of the new destroyeds.
Edited by neonrider - 1/15/16 at 9:29am
post #8300 of 16903
you've got to put into context the predicament french houses are in right now. raf leaving dior, elbaz getting ousted from lanvin, wang getting quickly replaced at balenciaga..etc.. it's a game of musical chairs and something quite unlike what we've known in the past. designers aren't as invulnerable as people may think. in between they're inflated ego & the power conglemorates pushing their agenda in boardrooms, things can get quite explosive & no one is immune, not even Hedi. I could see him going back to Dior if given carte blanche on both mens/womenswear and why not even backing for his own line. yes there is bad blood but if Hedi can remain in LA he'll be ok. Dior did set his career on fire for 7-8 years. He went back to YSL 13 years later, why not back to Dior. again the way things are going in high fashion right now, anything is possible imo..
post #8301 of 16903

Few thoughts. I don't see the Dior thing at all. Despite the changed landscape, it still appears as a regression. Hedi seemed to imply that the only reason he came to YSL was because of his relationship with Yves and Pierre themselves. Dior can't offer anything other than potentially a good business deal, which Hedi has never seemed to care about. And what, are they going to can KVA?

 

Would Hedi even want his own label? He thrives playing with specific references. A blank slate might not actually suit the vision that we all respond to. Obviously beyond the fashion itself, the entire rebranding is so compelling because of its context within the history of YSL itself. Not that I don't think he could do it. But I do wonder if his own label is the best for his idiosyncratic talents.

 

@neonrider Racism is interesting. And, as you say, it's probably not worth getting into on here. My personal take re: resistance, is that it comes from a little more nuanced place. Hedi refuses to play by the logic of the industry. As you mentioned before the permanent collection is probably the most overt example of this. By never 'producing' anything new, he runs against the grain and gets called merely a stylist. And by relentlessly referencing (from the average critics myopia) a similar scene which is built on the refusal of so-called good taste, aristocratic ideals, he constantly antagonizes those who think they are the ones supposed to be catered to. INn a way he refuses the gift of fashion, which as in any context, is particularly offensive to the giver. Interestingly, articles seem to suggest that good sales are a vulgar way to judge his worth--telling isn't it?

 

-------------------------------

 

@Prudy love that scarf. I wear mine just folded into a rectangle--goes with everything: blazer, leather, coats. I am on the lookout for one of the longer crinkled red ones though ...

post #8302 of 16903
Quote:
Originally Posted by therattler View Post

Few thoughts. I don't see the Dior thing at all. Despite the changed landscape, it still appears as a regression. Hedi seemed to imply that the only reason he came to YSL was because of his relationship with Yves and Pierre themselves. Dior can't offer anything other than potentially a good business deal, which Hedi has never seemed to care about. And what, are they going to can KVA?

I wouldn't be so quick to rule out Dior. He had a good thing going on over there and wasn't exactly thrilled on the idea of leaving it behind to be hacked off by KvA (who btw yes could get canned at the snap of a finger and go back to doing Kris by Kris), it is all about business and "creative control" in the end. If Hedi can have it his way (stay in LA, revamp womenswear, do couture stuff etc..) I could see him going back. It seems the SLP fans have a hard time letting go of the idea of him leaving YSL. it's for sure a very unexpected move, especially after all the hoopla over the couture atelier and the restoration of that trillion dollar showroom mansion etc.. but there have been stranger severances happen in just recent times..
post #8303 of 16903
Am I crazy to think the Feb show will go on just as a fuck you to the Parisian/Euro fashion community and nothing else will come from it? Makes no sense for Hedi to leave... Either way I'm open to new Dior leathers from Hedi icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #8304 of 16903
I don't really care where Hedi ends up as I don't think he'll settle, but if he leaves YSL I will be a bit sad as I think he and Yves are such a good match. I'm as much of a Yves fan as I am a Hedi fan.

post #8305 of 16903

Great fit Prudy, as always. Really love the bandana, is it the long scarf version - not the square one?

Also here's a pic I took today, cloak, muffler and boots by SLP, lemme know if you like it :)

 

post #8306 of 16903
@slann01 thanks man, you too - looks great. Scarf is the long version. You should grab one of the black capes, that style suits you. I think LVR had one on sale, size 44 wink.gif
post #8307 of 16903

There were a few different versions of the bandana scarf. One was square. One a large rectangle. And one was a really long thin rectangle.

 

I desperately want that muffler in grey @slann01 have been looking for months.

post #8308 of 16903

Anyone know anything about this jacket - 

 

 

I'd seen it floating around for ages but have never seen anyone wear it and there is little to no info at all on it. It's on sale at farfetch for $2100 

post #8309 of 16903

I imagine moving to LA also allows the freedom to use any models, what with Paris's regulations on BMI. May be a small factor in it.

post #8310 of 16903
Quote:
Originally Posted by therattler View Post

 

@neonrider Racism is interesting.

Can either of you give a one sentence summary of the possible racism? I'm completely at a loss on what that could be.

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