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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 495

post #7411 of 14957

Thing is, I've never once seen a custom made suit / coat / leather jacket that even came close. If you want the Saint Laurent look, then just buy Saint Laurent and deal with the sleeves being a bit long. Plus having sleeves as short as some of the runway looks can be a pain when you bend your arms for a bit and they ride half way up your arm. Also, for those in colder climates, we lose a lot of heat through the wrist, and I'm often glad of a little extra length, especially in winter clothes. Another thing to bear in mind is that the sleeves on the models often aren't quite as short as they sometimes look in runway photos because the models are in motion (sleeves will hang longer when standing stationary than when in motion). 

post #7412 of 14957

Ended up buying the black suede Wyatt boot. Never seen these before. Color is nice and rich. Suede seems softer and less stiff than usual. Anyone know more about them?
post #7413 of 14957
I don't think a bespoke or MTM suit would really capture the SLP vibe. Those who make suits are usually old British or Italian guys and they just don't get the aesthetic. People have tried and failed. Just lose weight or get the SLP tailored to your body type.
post #7414 of 14957
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

I don't think a bespoke or MTM suit would really capture the SLP vibe. Those who make suits are usually old British or Italian guys and they just don't get the aesthetic. People have tried and failed. Just lose weight or get the SLP tailored to your body type.

There are some contemporary minded Savile Row tailors that are targeting a demographic of guys that are into SLP etc. rather than the old British/Italian aesthetic. E.g. Kilgour:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




post #7415 of 14957
@sh0ebox I had ssense send me actual pics of the wyatts in the warehouse that would be shipping out when purchased. Do you think they are the same as yours featured in your album? I have to say that the ssense ones look tanner and more beige although it could just be a difference in photography. Thoughts?






Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0ebox View Post

@JAREDMINK666 - I recently sold a pair of SS15 suede Wyatts in the "nut" color, which matched the stock photo you included (very bottom photo), although they appear darker in stock photo due to the white backdrop.

See my album for pictures I took of the actual boots I sold: http://imgur.com/a/wV7bV
post #7416 of 14957
Quote:
Originally Posted by sh0ebox View Post


...you feel the markup for the goods sold by SLP is negligible. There is no reason that a leather jacket should cost north of $4000 aside from the label that it carries. You pay largely for the label and less for the actual quality of goods themselves when you get to these kinds of prices. The quality of the garments may be great still, don't get me wrong... but IMO they are not 10x better than, say, a Schott leather despite the 10x cost difference (disregarding the clear difference in fit/aesthetic).

 

There is certainly some markup, but not to an extent that I find absurd. This, obviously, will depend to an extent on individual boundaries concerning income, priorities, etc. But there's a little more to that, which leads me to the second point:

 

I think there is absolutely more to an SLP or other noted fashion house (not "fast" fashion) than a label. I disagree that you pay mostly for the label. You also pay for, as I said, the design and other tangible attributes. But there's more to that as well, leading to the third point:

 

You pay for exclusivity and cultural capital. Much as I adore the Frankfurt School theorists, culture -is- capital and the purchase of an SLP, a limited-edition Aston Martin, or other such objects involves the exchange of money for both tangibles (design, cut, "quality") and intangibles. What matters is whether the intangibles matter to -you-.

 

In a more common context this is also a frequent point of difference between Apple enthusiasts and, well, everyone else. Certainly I love their usability and other utilitarian aspects, but I also love their sheer elegance and design. I think that's worth paying for, and so I do. 

 

So TLDR I don't think you're being fair when you talk about SLP and the like merely in terms of materiality.

post #7417 of 14957
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAREDMINK666 View Post

@sh0ebox I had ssense send me actual pics of the wyatts in the warehouse that would be shipping out when purchased. Do you think they are the same as yours featured in your album? I have to say that the ssense ones look tanner and more beige although it could just be a difference in photography. Thoughts?


It looks about the same but I'm not entirely certain... Might be a little richer tan than the pair I had. Can they tell you the item code on the box?
post #7418 of 14957
Quote:
Originally Posted by Death24xASecond View Post

There is certainly some markup, but not to an extent that I find absurd. This, obviously, will depend to an extent on individual boundaries concerning income, priorities, etc. But there's a little more to that, which leads me to the second point:

I think there is absolutely more to an SLP or other noted fashion house (not "fast" fashion) than a label. I disagree that you pay mostly for the label. You also pay for, as I said, the design and other tangible attributes. But there's more to that as well, leading to the third point:

You pay for exclusivity and cultural capital. Much as I adore the Frankfurt School theorists, culture -is- capital and the purchase of an SLP, a limited-edition Aston Martin, or other such objects involves the exchange of money for both tangibles (design, cut, "quality") and intangibles. What matters is whether the intangibles matter to -you-.

In a more common context this is also a frequent point of difference between Apple enthusiasts and, well, everyone else. Certainly I love their usability and other utilitarian aspects, but I also love their sheer elegance and design. I think that's worth paying for, and so I do. 

So TLDR I don't think you're being fair when you talk about SLP and the like merely in terms of materiality.

I definitely agree on paying for the culture and exclusivity associated with the brand. That is something I considered part of the "label" as opposed to literally speaking of just the "name brand," but trying to keep things simple.

My statement was more meant to get to the root of what I felt was implied by thorns' original comment, which is that it is very much possible for someone to create a jacket that fits the way an SLP jacket would fit but with slightly shorter sleeves and using the same or similar quality of materials without spending as much as you would for SLP. Sure, you don't get all the intangibles that are associated with owning the brand piece... But I don't think many sacrifices would be made aside from that. Whether that's worth the extra cost, as you stated, is something to be judged on an individual basis. I by no means am averse to spending on things I desire and seem worthy of the price (SLP included), but I know people have different thresholds and it really depends what they are trying to accomplish.
post #7419 of 14957

Thing is, as I've mentioned above, I've seen a lot of custom made items and nothing ever comes close in terms of fit - Hedi is where he is for a reason and one of those reasons is his skill in tailoring and eye for proportion.

 

As for the poster that mentioned Kilgour, in the circles I'm in at least, Kilgour is still considered pretty conservative, and those jackets are all nothing like the Saint Laurent aesthetic - they are all long, with big shoulders, and cut like an hour glass in the waist - nothing at all like the Saint Laurent cuts.

post #7420 of 14957
Quote:
Originally Posted by kieran84 View Post

Thing is, as I've mentioned above, I've seen a lot of custom made items and nothing ever comes close in terms of fit - Hedi is where he is for a reason and one of those reasons is his skill in tailoring and eye for proportion.

As for the poster that mentioned Kilgour, in the circles I'm in at least, Kilgour is still considered pretty conservative, and those jackets are all nothing like the Saint Laurent aesthetic - they are all long, with big shoulders, and cut like an hour glass in the waist - nothing at all like the Saint Laurent cuts.

I'd echo Kieran's sentiments 100%. Not even close to the SLP aesthetic. I'm not saying Kilgour is bad, just different and not for most of the people who take interest in Hedi's (or Raf's!) designs of the past 10 years or so.

The closest I have found, and I have looked hard because I wear a lot of suits, is Napoli on Madison Ave. You have to beat them down for a while, but they eventually almost get it, in that they'll do 6" leg openings, that kind of thing and their suits are unstructured, so less padding. That said, the patterns are still off, the fabric is almost too silky or something just seems not right.

Dior Homme does MTM in their midtown boutique, and if you ask for the "slim" classic cut model as a base (not the skinny lapel wide body, but rather original Hedi design), they can do a lot with it, such as shortening the length while keeping the pockets a little higher so the proportions are all right. This will set you back in the 5K - 7K range, so may be overkill if you're just looking for a fashionable, high-quality suit and not a bespoke OCD person.
post #7421 of 14957
@slann01

Just pm'd you a question.. Check it out. Thanks!
post #7422 of 14957

 

Please somebody help me find/or sell me these in 42.5

post #7423 of 14957

Did someone just compare SLP to Aston Martin?

 

Last I checked, they don't sell Aston Martin's in mega-malls. SLP is about as limited as Mercedes Benz. I can't tell you how many times I see people wearing Wyatt's and L01 or L17 and a flannel every single day. SLP is easily the new Louis Vuitton. As much as I like Hedi's designs and SLP, there is nothing unique about SLP and very little design actually going through. Even comparing SLP to Apple is a bit of a stretch. Most of the jackets don't even have pockets to put your hands in (I realize this may be a 'design' choice).

 

SLP might not be overpriced when you compare to an artisan designer or whatever current hyped brand is out at the moment, i.e. Yeezy, Off-White, etc. It might even seem like a bargain when you compare to Dior or Balmain, however the last two are of much higher quality and really do contain more design and functionality so that's maybe an unfair comparison (and I don't like any of the brands mentioned FYI). 

 

The reality is that SLP is Fast Fashion now. It may not be H&M or Zara, but it's pretty damn close.

This is not the same as saying Rick Owens is fast fashion because All Saints and Zara are putting out his designs because when you compare, you can instantly feel the difference.  

 

First few seasons aside, SLP does feel the same as any of the other major high street brands now. I'm not trying to shit on SLP either, I've easily spent around $25k on rodeo this year alone, but you are really just paying for the leather tag and silver chain. And if you think the brand quality has gone down lately, just wait until the couture stuff starts appearing and all the design and material investment goes into that.  

 

BTW, COS jeans, T-shirts and outerwear are made in the same factory as SLP MII and Portugal. Most SLP production is now in Portugal but they still get away with putting made in italy because of the hand stitched leather tag and chain. 

post #7424 of 14957

Come on now. You've spent twenty-five thousand dollars on Saint Laurent this year alone but believe it to feel the same as high street? Something doesn't add up there. 

post #7425 of 14957
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanner View Post
 

The reality is that SLP is Fast Fashion now. It may not be H&M or Zara, but it's pretty damn close.

 

First few seasons aside, SLP does feel the same as any of the other major high street brands now. I'm not trying to shit on SLP either, I've easily spent around $25k on rodeo this year alone, but you are really just paying for the leather tag and silver chain.

 

Ha! Please elaborate. Why not just spend a fraction at Zara? I'd happily spend much less to achieve the aesthetic. But, look back to the discussion about that Chromeo dude in the Mr Porter photos before SLP and then wearing all SLP. However subtle the difference may be it's obvious as soon as you compare the two.

 

I scoured London for a pair of Chelsea's that I could wear everyday that were equally as cool, but not as expensive.  Nothing: other high end stuff, is as Hedi says 'too designed', and the rest have stupid round clown toes that my dad would wear. Same with blazers, no one else does equivalent proportions.

 

Also, what is 'little design'? The difference is subtlety and restraint, which requires just as much effort as any gaudy ornamental nonsense.

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