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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 32

post #466 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by JodyHighroller View Post
 

I think Dior Homme "looked to the future" because Hedi (at the time) liked minimalistic electronic music and the Berlin scene. Something intangible with an industrial, future outlook and technological feel to it. Consequently his pieces looked futuristic, straight-forward, minimal.

 

 

I've heard Dior Homme called many things, but minimal? Would you consider the Napoleon jacket minimal, with the epaulets, the cuffs, and the zippers? Really, almost everything from Dior Homme is incredibly ornate, save some certain items from before AW2003. 

post #467 of 1122
KVA dh is very minimalist, even heidi dh was minimalist apart from the 'runway/flagship' pieces.
post #468 of 1122
DH is extremely minimalist now. That's basically KVA's touch to Hedi's super-slim rock aesthetic there.

This was a fascinating discussion, btw!
post #469 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

DH is extremely minimalist now. That's basically KVA's touch to Hedi's super-slim rock aesthetic there.

This was a fascinating discussion, btw!

Agreed on the second part lol
post #470 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaPro View Post

KVA dh is very minimalist, even heidi dh was minimalist apart from the 'runway/flagship' pieces.

 

True, KVA truely brought radical minimalism to Dior and Raf continues very nicely (after minimalism practice at Jil Sander). 

But I also think that earlier Hedi's slim, modern silouette at DH or just the monochrome pallet already were pretty simple in contrast to the 90ies with handsome, muscular models in flashy Versace or D&G.

Hedi's black and white photography been minimal. Especially his first half at DH was more Berlin cypertechno, androgynous. After he got on the rock train.

Just my two cents...

post #471 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by JodyHighroller View Post

It's arguable but I would consider most big fashion houses conservative with incremental "change" like LV, gucci, hermes, Zegna, versace, chanel, mmm because they stick to signature silouettes, themes and patterns. Of course there might be ups and downs but customers buy these rather for the brand image and less for the current designer's influence.

On the other hand, yes, you are right the allmighty dollar rules and some fashion houses just flip flop for hype profit and let a designer completly remodel their aestehetic like Givenchy.
YSL did not really have a long tradition in fashion for men, so that might be a reason for going with Hedi and giving him "total creative responsability".

Sorry, I should've been clear that I was talking about menswear specifically. Women's is different. For one thing there's an actual design heritage to draw on, unlike men's in many cases, as you suggested, so the houses take preserving some of those codes more seriously.
post #472 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by JodyHighroller View Post
 

Kanye's point...". Rap is the new rock 'n roll."

 

I think country is more popular than both rock and hip-hop (in the US). Maybe Hedi should do a cowboy collection next.

post #473 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illithid Dude View Post

Hedi is a fantastic designer, as evidenced by his work at Dior Homme. The issue is not with him, but with rock. Hedi's first rock inspired collection was Victim of the Crime. This was also the first collection to start to become less conceptual, and more styles. Prior to this collection, Hedi went through two phases, the first phase being where he deconstructed masculinity, and the second being when he was involved in the Berlin electronic scene. Both these concepts, masculinity and electronic music, are very abstract, and his clothing reflected that in their design. Rock, however, is a much more concrete reference, both in content (rock often having lyrics, using physical instruments) and in delivery (established fashion codes of rock, i.e. grunge, glam, punk). As such, Hedi went from trying to extrapolate what clothing inspired by an abstract concept would be like, to creating clothing off of an already existing reference and history. If Hedi were to start listening to electronic music again, or try to advance some other idea through his clothing, then I think you'd find that Saint Laurent would become less literal, less 'styled', and more unique and creative.


The issue is not with rock. The issue is that Hedi is so infatuated with his source material that he's seemingly unable or unwilling to distance himself from it and to move beyond it to offer a fresh perspective, which leaves us with pastiche collections where thrift stores pieces are given the Haute couture treatment as if this ultimate overindulgence should somehow make up for a flagrant lack of substance.

Not that I necessarily disagree with your analysis overall...


Quote:
Originally Posted by JodyHighroller View Post

[It's arguable but I would consider most big fashion houses conservative with incremental "change" like LV, gucci, hermes, Zegna, versace, chanel, mmm because they stick to signature silouettes, themes and patterns. Of course there might be ups and downs but customers buy these rather for the brand image and less for the current designer's influence.

On the other hand, yes, you are right the allmighty dollar rules and some fashion houses just flip flop for hype profit and let a designer completly remodel their aestehetic like Givenchy.
YSL did not really have a long tradition in fashion for men, so that might be a reason for going with Hedi and giving him "total creative responsability".


Well Hermes and LV (and Gucci to a lesser degree) are luxury goods houses first and foremost so it's a bit different since there's no fashion heritage to uphold per se. The fashion lines are mostly props for the brands' bread and butter. They need to echo the houses' qualities/values and provide the customer with an overarching lifestyle narrative, which seriously minimize the designers' influence.
post #474 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

I think country is more popular than both rock and hip-hop (in the US). Maybe Hedi should do a cowboy collection next.

hedi IS a genius



post #475 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

I think country is more popular than both rock and hip-hop (in the US). Maybe Hedi should do a cowboy collection next.


Tom Ford already did it.
post #476 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImaPro View Post

KVA dh is very minimalist, even heidi dh was minimalist apart from the 'runway/flagship' pieces.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

DH is extremely minimalist now. That's basically KVA's touch to Hedi's super-slim rock aesthetic there.

This was a fascinating discussion, btw!
 
Well, yes, KVA Dior is minimlaistic, but since we were talking about Hedi Slimane as a designer, I assumed we were talking about Dior during Hedi's reign. KVA Dior is everything Hedi's Dior was not- baggy, minimalistic, formal. 
post #477 of 1122
Long shot, but does anyone know a place that still has the 15.5 destroyed denim ($675) in sizes? I'm looking for a 33 or 34.
post #478 of 1122
So I ended up getting a pair of Saint Laurent Paris 15.5cm denim as a gift. I went with size 30, which is my regular size and mainly because the measurements seemed really similar to the Naked & Famous Super Skinny Guy stretch denim, which are by far my slimmest jeans. I was definitely wrong. While the waist and the thighs have a decent amount of room, it's the knees where they're super tight and a bit around the calves. I actually cannot bend my knees all the way back in them and even walking up the stairs you could feel that there wasn't as much give in them as far as bending knees. Is this normal given the cut? Or should they have a bit moreroom around the knees. They're definitely a fair amount slimmer than the Dior Homme 17.5 cm cut as well.



Naked and Famous Super Skinny Guys (Mind the white socks!!)



Dior Homme 17.5cm Stretch Denim



With all of this being said, the Super Skinny Guys and the 17.5s feel almost like pajamas afterwards compared to the 15.5 cms. Is this how they're supposed to fit in the sense of being THAT tight? The waist on the 31 cm seems like it would be too big/loose on me when looking in the measurements and the legs don't seem like they would be more than .5cm bigger. How much will these even stretch?
post #479 of 1122
That's how it's supposed to fit, similar to "cigarette leg" Acne Ace denim. They will stretch and get softer overtime but not too much.

N&F skinny guy and Dior 17.5 cm are skinny on the thigh but have straight leg from the knee down. Two very different styles.
post #480 of 1122
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheObserver View Post

That's how it's supposed to fit, similar to "cigarette leg" Acne Ace denim. They will stretch and get softer overtime but not too much.

N&F skinny guy and Dior 17.5 cm are skinny on the thigh but have straight leg from the knee down. Two very different styles.


Fair play mate! Yeah, I'm only making those comparisons because those are the slimmest jeans I have otherwise. Will they stretch a bit to the point where walking up the stairs will feel normal at least do you think??
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