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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 936

post #14026 of 15056
Quote:
Originally Posted by bawlin View Post

Hedi himself posts in this thread. My SA at 57th told me so.

I guess I should use this opportunity to reveal that I'm Hedi Slimane. I'm going to miss you guys. Start wearing Gucci and get back into Balmain since it's becoming relevant again.

 

- Hedi

post #14027 of 15056
Quote:
Originally Posted by b19pen15 View Post
 

I guess I should use this opportunity to reveal that I'm Hedi Slimane. I'm going to miss you guys. Start wearing Gucci and get back into Balmain since it's becoming relevant again.

 

- Hedi


​I believe you cuz I can believe that hedi would use the username b19pen15

post #14028 of 15056
Nah, Hedi is the fake Slann.
post #14029 of 15056
Pretty uninspiring stuff

I don't get how it's daring or incredibly sexy to just have a see-through or very low cut top or a top that stops below the tits. There's no nuance it. It's like operating with the formula, more skin = more sexy in the cutting room.
post #14030 of 15056

post #14031 of 15056

I liked how AV is putting out those oxford/derbies for women but that's about it. Do you guys predict that this new direction will sell well?

 

Edit: regardless how well it sells, I just can't get behind the core message and themes (mature women, sleezy, trashy). Hedi exposed the nipple too but it was done in a more "oh it is an accidental slip/I'm young and carefree" vs "I'm feeling I'm empowered and wanting to free my nipples". I much prefer the more youthful Saint Laurent under Hedi's creative direction. Missing some babydoll dresses :( but really I'm starting to think this better reflects the attitudes of some people who wear designer clothes (snobby, arrogant, tasteless) only because it is designer. 

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BK41dJ3Ad_0/?taken-by=b.e.e.b.a.d.a.b.o.u.m <--disgusting/crude but I can see how some will see this is sexy (although this is just a model's own personal actions I feel it reflects a bit about the new change in direction of YSL under AV's creative direction)


Edited by thorns - 9/27/16 at 11:59pm
post #14032 of 15056
Quote:
Originally Posted by thorns View Post
 

I liked how AV is putting out those oxford/derbies for women but that's about it. Do you guys predict that this new direction will sell well?


I think the YSL Heels will sell well as novelty and they are re-purposing Hedi design bags which will continue to sell but that should be about it. Most of the items for women SS17 will be astronomical and out of reach to most which is part of their strategy till they transition over completely. 

 

After Dior Homme profited immensely off of Hedi's biggest sellers for nearly 7 years, he got smart and put his name on patents on all his designs for '13 & '14 (this doesn't mean he owns the patents, simply he is recognized as the creator and YSL isn't able to patent any of his designs from that period). 

 

YSL didn't realize this until 2015 and only got around to getting patents for something like 15 items that Hedi designed which wasn't easy to acquire and mostly includes the fringe items and accessories. Each patent costs around $10k just to file plus Hedi gets royalties on everything he has designed, which costs a fortune and digs into Kering's profits. 

 

My guess is that most of the permanent collection items will continue to get tweaked and re-worked enough to the point where they are unique enough to be 100% profitable for YSL. 

post #14033 of 15056

is logo-mania back? One of the reasons I loved Hedi's first few bags was the lack of ostensiable branding (duffle 12 etc.). 

post #14034 of 15056
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanner View Post
 


I think the YSL Heels will sell well as novelty and they are re-purposing Hedi design bags which will continue to sell but that should be about it. Most of the items for women SS17 will be astronomical and out of reach to most which is part of their strategy till they transition over completely. 

 

After Dior Homme profited immensely off of Hedi's biggest sellers for nearly 7 years, he got smart and put his name on patents on all his designs for '13 & '14 (this doesn't mean he owns the patents, simply he is recognized as the creator and YSL isn't able to patent any of his designs from that period). 

 

YSL didn't realize this until 2015 and only got around to getting patents for something like 15 items that Hedi designed which wasn't easy to acquire and mostly includes the fringe items and accessories. Each patent costs around $10k just to file plus Hedi gets royalties on everything he has designed, which costs a fortune and digs into Kering's profits. 

 

My guess is that most of the permanent collection items will continue to get tweaked and re-worked enough to the point where they are unique enough to be 100% profitable for YSL. 


This sounds to me like in-house counsel trying to justify their position in the company. A design patent works only to go after people trying to knock off the item. And, 10k for a few items isn't really much money. Lawyers will tell their clients to get these patents to 'round out' their IP portfolio. Basically, they can sue HM and Zara if their clones are substantially similar. But, given the frenetic pace of the fast fashion industry, copies are already sold and then out of season by the time the design patent is granted. Litigation here is a total crapshoot, though at the very least it gives companies a reason to send an expensive cease and desist letter.

 

I don't think many of the permanent collection items would pass the validity test for a design patent--they're not ornamental enough and so unlikely to possess the 'individual character' distinct from the 'relevant prior art', think of a blazer or an L01 for example. Seems to me Hedi just wants his name on everything (not sure about the royalties point).

 

Something interesting to think about, given the acrimony, is how Kering could be pursuing its IP rights aggressively to prevent any potential overlap that Hedi might bring to a new house. This is a bit conspiratorial, but I've seen much worse go on.

post #14035 of 15056

But the real question is - will they sell the sequined heart nipple sticker together with the dress???

post #14036 of 15056

will match it with my tiara and £100 pin badge

post #14037 of 15056
Maxfield isn't honoring the Wyatts on FarFetch FYI
post #14038 of 15056
Quote:
Originally Posted by epryor View Post

Maxfield isn't honoring the Wyatts on FarFetch FYI

damn too good to be true

post #14039 of 15056
Maxfield fucking sucks.
post #14040 of 15056
They said their sales are run by farfetched exclusively. That it's not in store? Are you trying in store or did you order on farfetched?
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