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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 819

post #12271 of 14966
Those new ads look seriously amateurish, like someone took five minutes to throw something together in photoshop. I may be biased against anything new from the brand, but this is objectively lazy work. The execution is just so unimaginative.
post #12272 of 14966

I don't like them but i can see how this is a difficult place to be. Doesn't want to completely re-brand by the look of things (staying with minimal black and white campaign shots) But obviously his photography will not be as good a Hedi's. 

post #12273 of 14966

boring fashion 101. I would've much rather seen a return to YSL, than the failure of this reimagined SL wordmark. it forgets its reference to rive gauche, and tries to pretend that its re-modernizing SL. 

 

the front page of ysl has an extended video of the new vacarello insta video. fuck those guys not even giving the palladium campaigns a minute.

post #12274 of 14966
It's hilarious to me that there's so much negativity around Vaccarello for being "boring", "basic", etc. when it's being compared to Hedi SLP, which (even though I am a fan) is one of the most boring, basic, derivative, etc etc designer brands out.

I personally like the Vaccarello images. Without showing clothes, we know he's retaining the brand, but the look of the models and the style of the shoot (being naked and everything) suggests to me that he's starting the brand with a completely fresh perspective, and likely carrying over the study of the human body and clothes that accentuate it, which is a huge feature in his womenswear. I'm excited to see those kinds of design codes (if that's what we get) come through in his menswear.
post #12275 of 14966

that hedi directly copies things, I think, is what makes him great. rather than the condescension of most fashion, which attempts to tell people how to dress, hedi takes what people are actually wearing and gives both the culture and the pieces the respect they deserve.

 

obviously, there's the access problem. yes the stuff is really expensive, and so not everyone can afford it. but it doesn't matter, because you can be just as cool (if not more) by thrifting or whatever.

 

this is another reason why he is so divisive. the standard fashion crowd think they have access to a privileged realm of taste, and then hedi comes around and just lifts thing from the cool kids making a mockery of the industry. and coupled with his photography, it's clear that it doesn't matter if you wear his clothes.

post #12276 of 14966

My SS16 Leather Wyatts' right foot zipper just tore on me on my 3rd wear, had a slight hitch with the zipper in the spot that it tore from the beginning but I thought it might have just been a tight fitting shoe, guess I was wrong.  Anyone had this happen to them before?  I've emailed SLP to see whether they do repairs and am awaiting a response that'll probably tell me 'no' 

 

In the case of a 'no' I figure that my cobbler should be able to fix them, although the interior zipper is completely frayed so who knows.

  

post #12277 of 14966
Yikes!

Did you buy in store? If something like that happened to me, I feel confident that my SA would help me get that taken care of.
post #12278 of 14966
Quote:
Originally Posted by echau View Post

Yikes!

Did you buy in store? If something like that happened to me, I feel confident that my SA would help me get that taken care of.

this.

I've been told to bring my Wyatts back if something happens down the road.
post #12279 of 14966
Quote:
Originally Posted by gustavobradley View Post

It's hilarious to me that there's so much negativity around Vaccarello for being "boring", "basic", etc. when it's being compared to Hedi SLP, which (even though I am a fan) is one of the most boring, basic, derivative, etc etc designer brands out.

I personally like the Vaccarello images. Without showing clothes, we know he's retaining the brand, but the look of the models and the style of the shoot (being naked and everything) suggests to me that he's starting the brand with a completely fresh perspective, and likely carrying over the study of the human body and clothes that accentuate it, which is a huge feature in his womenswear. I'm excited to see those kinds of design codes (if that's what we get) come through in his menswear.

Yes, guys. Please let the man show his first collection and then make judgements. It's an awkward place to be - taking over after a recent major brand reposition.

They can't really go back and redo the design of the stores and consumer impression so soon so many elements will necessarily need to carry over. Also, there are more similarities between AV and HS than you might think at first.

Hedi did great work at YSL but that era ended. I admire that so many of you ride so hard for Hedi. If there were ever a definition of groupie many of you would detail it to the letter. If I were ever in a fist fight I would def want you guys on my side. You've kept it 100 for him since the beginning with an unwavering cult-like devotion. But it's just corny for you to not realize or admit that there are great designers doing great work all over. That's just lame folks.

Relax, it's just clothes.
Edited by harlemriver - 6/17/16 at 9:11am
post #12280 of 14966
Quote:
Originally Posted by therattler View Post
 

this is another reason why he is so divisive. the standard fashion crowd think they have access to a privileged realm of taste, and then hedi comes around and just lifts thing from the cool kids making a mockery of the industry. and coupled with his photography, it's clear that it doesn't matter if you wear his clothes.

 

It isn't about his democratization of designer clothes or anything like that, I don't think. It's because he's putting in "less" work than other, far more talented designers and charging much higher prices for them. It's not so much about lifting things from the cool kids (designers constantly reference "youth culture" in their work) as it is making literal copies of pieces. If you look at a designer like Raf, for example, many of his collections reference youth and "the cool kids", but do so in a way that twists it in such a way. 

 

But I feel at the same time that Hedi's marketing strategy and direction for the brand does deserve acclaim, considering how he basically resurrected it, etc. 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by harlemriver View Post


Yes, guys. Please let the man show his first collection and then make judgements. It's an awkward place to be - taking over after a recent major brand reposition.

They can't really go back and redo the design of the stores and consumer impression so soon so many elements will necessarily need to carry over. Also, there are more similarities between AV and HS than you might think at first.

Hedi did great work at YSL but that era ended. I admire that so many of you ride so hard for Hedi. If there were ever a definition of groupie many of you would detail it to the letter. If I were ever in a fist fight I would def want you guys on my side. You've keep it 100 for him since the beginning with an unwavering cult-like devotion. But it's just corny for you to not realize or admit that there are great designers doing great work all over. That's just lame folks.

Relax, it's just clothes.

 

Exactly. It seems like a lot of you guys look at the fashion world with blinders on, and can't fathom thinking other designers are any good. Or maybe some people just like wearing expensive clothes and don't care either way.

 

But if you look at Vaccarello's womenswear (IMO the most pure representation of him as a designer) I think it's pretty obvious that there are some similarities between him and what Hedi has done. 

post #12281 of 14966
Maybe I'm biased, but I can't imagine that someone objectively would think those Vaccarello teaser ads were of the same quality as Hedi's even for initial shoots. That said, I'm more interested in the clothes than the photography, whereas Hedi seemed to want to signal his growth as a designer in his ability to touch all aspects of the brand, from the name, boutiques, website, packaging, photography (especially), and of course, the aesthetic of the clothes and lines. His core aesthetic of heroin rock is a constant.

Obviously there will be some fanboy-ism in this thread, as there was back in the day for Dior. Hedi has a certain charisma to him, which other designers don't quite enjoy. I think a lot of people attracted to his aesthetic can empathize with his OCD personality for lack of a better term.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to see what Vaccarello does.
post #12282 of 14966

im the first to admit that I don't care at all for any other fashion designers. coming for the world that hedi inhabits, it's just cool that he took my wardrobe staples and elevated them. and its also cool to see an actual reference to certain subcultures properly. so often when others try, its lame and heavy handed. kinda like Gucci's latest take on british skinheads. fuck it, too far removed and i'd never wear it. that said of course there are tons of talented designers around. but i'm indifferent.

 

also I'd ask, why does everything need to be 'twisted'? referenced, but presented as new? the idea that something has references, betrays any real originality anyways.

 

the idea that hedi put in less work is ridiculous. as with any creative endeavor, the best blatant copies sometimes obscure the amount of labour that goes into selecting the perfect reference and laboring over how to tweak it etc. that criticism sounds like grandpa denouncing hip hop for sampling.

post #12283 of 14966
Quote:
Originally Posted by therattler View Post
 

im the first to admit that I don't care at all for any other fashion designers. coming for the world that hedi inhabits, it's just cool that he took my wardrobe staples and elevated them. and its also cool to see an actual reference to certain subcultures properly. so often when others try, its lame and heavy handed. kinda like Gucci's latest take on british skinheads. fuck it, too far removed and i'd never wear it. that said of course there are tons of talented designers around. but i'm indifferent.

 

also I'd ask, why does everything need to be 'twisted'? referenced, but presented as new? the idea that something has references, betrays any real originality anyways.

 

the idea that hedi put in less work is ridiculous. as with any creative endeavor, the best blatant copies sometimes obscure the amount of labour that goes into selecting the perfect reference and laboring over how to tweak it etc. that criticism sounds like grandpa denouncing hip hop for sampling.

 

It actually helps to know that that's where you're coming from, and I totally get it. That's what first drew me in to SLP - it was stuff I was either already wearing or had always wanted to wear, but "better". 

 

IMO in the designer fashion world, where you pay a premium for the artistic merit of the clothes (at least in most cases), I'd like to see the designer flex creative muscles and present something that I know I couldn't find from any other label or design team. Not everything needs to be twisted, but in the price range that SLP charges, it's more of an expectation. I don't know what you mean by "betraying originality"?

 

I didn't mean it in a sense of actual man hours - I meant creatively. It takes presumably a lot less work to take something like a leather jacket and say "ok, we're going to make an exact copy of this, but use x material and y fit" than to take the same garment and say "how can I deconstruct/recreate/otherwise alter this garment to create something new?". 

 

Sampling was a bad example, since that's referencing an existing track and twisting it to make something new :tounge:

post #12284 of 14966
Hedi designs beautiful footwear and clothes. I think it is because he has a good eye for proportions and that allows him to perfect existing styles.
post #12285 of 14966

its just the old argument that says originality is impossible as soon as you start references other things. and ill go all the way here, and say there may be a lot of bikers on the market, but there really is only one L17, for example. it stands out in a more nuanced way than a lot of the other designers out there. which is another thing that someone like me, who is indifferent to designer stuff generally, is drawn to.

 

often i think a lot of the attempts of other designers to rethink certain designs, bikers again for example, is unnecessary. pretty cool that the permanent collection can be an anchor for all of the seasonal items, as well as a permanent wardrobe for years to come. and if thats the case, as it is with me, the high price tag isn't as big a deal.

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