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Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. - Page 712

post #10666 of 15051
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyc wid it View Post

My SLP stuff is all pretty mild.
Olive MA-1, PC teddy, mid gray double breasted overcoat from I think FW14?, SS16 knee patch denim, nightriders, Hedi 30 high (calf and suede), old D01 coated from one of the early seasons, Wyatts (suede forgot which season but old, black calf chain), Santiags (suede), black/white SL10, white lows. I'll probably pick up an L17, maybe a shirt or two and a scarf and call it a day.

I find SLP knitwear in general to be pretty underwhelming. Minimal interest in the T's.

@jwoowoo does it better than most. Not just in SLP.

My advice is to not be fixated on just the permanent collection when you start stocking up on slp items when Hedi leaves. I look more at pieces outside of permanent collection and just ask myself "is this wearable for multiple seasons?" Just my 2 cents, this may be obvious to everyone already. Example of this below. The jacket is from 2014 and is not permanent collection, but it still can be worn for multiple seasons and is a NICE piece. Just a classic shearling A-2 bomber with really nice leather and shearling colllar color. Cut on the jacket is aso perfect. Only thing permanent collection in that fit is the black D02's.

VjNateE.jpg
post #10667 of 15051
I wish that brown suede jacket got made. ffffuuuu.gif
post #10668 of 15051
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwoowoo View Post


My advice is to not be fixated on just the permanent collection when you start stocking up on slp items when Hedi leaves. I look more at pieces outside of permanent collection and just ask myself "is this wearable for multiple seasons?" Just my 2 cents, this may be obvious to everyone already. Example of this below. The jacket is from 2014 and is not permanent collection, but it still can be worn for multiple seasons and is a NICE piece. Just a classic shearling A-2 bomber with really nice leather and shearling colllar color. Cut on the jacket is aso perfect. Only thing permanent collection in that fit is the black D02's.

VjNateE.jpg

 

Nice! love how you match the wool collar with your shoes!

 

something about this bothers me though...I think it's the jods but it's probably just me

 

while most people love slp high jods.....I actually think the cropped jods look so much better than the high jods

post #10669 of 15051

now that changes for the future are confirmed, thinking of picking up the patch military jacket.  Anyone seen this seasons as far as the fit? I like the previous gold trim one but I can't find one in my size or a decent price at that. 

post #10670 of 15051
If you're talking about the one that is $1890: it's really oversized, size down.
post #10671 of 15051
I've seen it, and agree with cyc above. It has the oversize look. I would recommend sizing down similar to the idea behind the varsity.
post #10672 of 15051
post #10673 of 15051
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyc wid it View Post

If you're talking about the one that is $1890: it's really oversized, size down.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

I've seen it, and agree with cyc above. It has the oversize look. I would recommend sizing down similar to the idea behind the varsity.

 

thanks.  I'll track down a small then and see how it fits. 

post #10674 of 15051
I have a modicum of interest on how Vaccarello will do. Assuming he keeps the SLP line and aesthetic...and the permanent collection sticks around a season or two, who knows, maybe he'll surprise us? I'm completely unfamiliar with Versace, and perhaps he will alter the aesthetic from there (sleazy?) to SLP accordingly.

I'm curious how YSL made the business decision, as it seems that the issue with Hedi was not creative freedom but rather money. Revenues for YSL have been growing at an exponentially higher rate than the fashion houses, so I suppose the question comes down to a few things:

  • How much of that growth is Hedi specific?
  • How much of that growth translated into profits?
  • How much of that growth can be sustained, since there isn't a clear competitor occupying a same position, etc.
post #10675 of 15051

operating profits quadrupled. there's a bloomberg analysis or something. i wonder if hedi even wanted to stay, or if he always planned to leave at the end of the contract.

post #10676 of 15051
Don't forget that they were paying a lot for Hedi (et al) too... Aside from that, a lot of people were unhappy with the direction he was taking things, especially women's. I'd imagine Vaccarello will focus a lot more on women's RTW.
post #10677 of 15051
Quote:
Originally Posted by therattler View Post

operating profits quadrupled. there's a bloomberg analysis or something. i wonder if hedi even wanted to stay, or if he always planned to leave at the end of the contract.

There's a part of me that thinks this was the reasoning, that he always planned to leave the company or at least decided he would after a few years of being back at it.

I just can't make any sense of them not wanting to keep him with business being as good as it is.

"Hedi Slimane has led the house to spectacular results. In the three years since he took the creative reins, the brand has more than doubled annual sales revenue to €707 million in 2014 (about $787 million), up from €353 million in 2011." This number have also gone up since; "Saint Laurent recorded revenues of 974 million euros, or $1.08 billion, last year with a network of 142 stores."
Also SLP has hit their highest operating margin ever at 20%.


Also, this article is a rather funny read; https://hbr.org/2016/04/hedi-slimane-the-steve-jobs-of-fashion
post #10678 of 15051
prudy, udo, looking good.
post #10679 of 15051
Quote:
Originally Posted by echau View Post

@OakGhost, I strongly debated the JE Summer Rider, and I'm sure it's an amazing piece, but I decided I want a L01 so I'm gonna go for that. Just gotta convince myself it'll get use down here in Houston. I might get to wear it 5 times a year.

I'm a hypocrite. I said I was gonna get the L01, but got this instead:

post #10680 of 15051
I'm very optimistic about Vaccarello at SLP. Taking his womenswear as reference, it seems like his stuff carries the same kind of "sleazy" essence as Hedi SLP, but in a way that's more "realized" (it's pretty clear that women's RTW was an afterthought for the Hedi team).

I don't think Versus Versace is super representative of what his men's work at SLP will be. I assume a lot of his signatures will remain, but he'll be taking a different direction given the different messages and philosophies of Yves, (presumably) Hedi, and the house as a whole.
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