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Thom Browne dig in Playboy Advisor

ChicagoRon

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Anyone see this? A reader asked about the new trend of too-tight jackets and too-short pants, and Playboy credited Browne as its champion. They followed by quoting a Details article where the author "Didn't fully understand" the trend but said "Browne should be commended for taking a routine activity such as putting on a suit and making it different".

From Playboy...."Huh? You would certainly stand out if you cut off your coat sleeves or put denim patches on your knees, but that doesn't mean you look good."
 

Artisan Fan

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Good for them Browne makes silly suits for silly people.
 

RJman

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Originally Posted by Artisan Fan
Good for them Browne makes silly suits for silly people.
At least his suits are artisan made.
 

Fuuma

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Originally Posted by Artisan Fan
Good for them Browne makes silly suits for silly people.

You're quite an open-minded fellow, aren't you? This must have been mentioned a thousand times already but Tom Browne presents his aesthetics the same way most designers with runway shows do; he distillates what he consider the essential ideas behind a collection and accentuates those characteristics to present his work in a stylized, coherent and highly dramatic manner. You don’t have to wear the clothes the same way, and most people don’t, but his styling helps drive home his take on modern suiting (shorter trousers, shorter jacket, tight fit, 60s aesthetic, etc.).
 

teddieriley

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Originally Posted by Artisan Fan
Good for them Browne makes silly suits for silly people.

It seems like our own Get Smart has been known to wear Thome Browne from time to time or at least sport a similar style. I would have never considered him "silly" in any way.
 

Get Smart

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Originally Posted by Artisan Fan
Good for them Browne makes silly suits for silly people.

I doubt you'd say that if you ever saw his real life garments (actually you probably still would as I'm sure you'll find something 'wrong').....despite the silliness of his runway shows, the gear you see at stores is simply incredible. Very well made, and the prices are out of reach of most, but if you have it and are willing to spend it, you're getting a topnotch garment. and dont give me the tired rhetoric of you can get Kiton/Attolini/Brioni for the same retail price because the guys who want TB don't want Kiton/etal

cheers Teddie!
 

RJman

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Originally Posted by Get Smart
...despite the silliness of his runway shows, the gear you see at stores is simply incredible. Very well made, and the prices are out of reach of most, but if you have it and are willing to spend it, you're getting a topnotch garment.
I believe I read here it's made by Rocco Siffredi?
 

zjpj83

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Originally Posted by RJman
At least his suits are artisan made.
You mean my fully canvased bee keeper costume with hand stitching is a nice piece of clothing? Sweet!!!
 

Artisan Fan

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I doubt you'd say that if you ever saw his real life garments (actually you probably still would as I'm sure you'll find something 'wrong').....despite the silliness of his runway shows, the gear you see at stores is simply incredible. Very well made, and the prices are out of reach of most, but if you have it and are willing to spend it, you're getting a topnotch garment. and dont give me the tired rhetoric of you can get Kiton/Attolini/Brioni for the same retail price because the guys who want TB don't want Kiton/etal
It's fine if people want to buy these suits but I stand by my comments as I believe these high water pants are a black and white sartorial mistake.

Silly suits can be well made but at the end of the day one might still look like a flood survivor.
 

bigbadbuff

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Originally Posted by Get Smart
I doubt you'd say that if you ever saw his real life garments (actually you probably still would as I'm sure you'll find something 'wrong').....despite the silliness of his runway shows, the gear you see at stores is simply incredible.

I will second this. I was very surprised to find that, upon seeing 'real' TB items, I loved them. And for reference I HATE the way he prefers his suit cuts, but there is no arguing the rest of it.
 

SGladwell

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Originally Posted by Get Smart
I doubt you'd say that if you ever saw his real life garments (actually you probably still would as I'm sure you'll find something 'wrong').....despite the silliness of his runway shows, the gear you see at stores is simply incredible. Very well made, and the prices are out of reach of most, but if you have it and are willing to spend it, you're getting a topnotch garment.

I did recently see some TB stuff, and I don't think I can agree with that. Ignoring that I don't like the basic style - I guess my personal style is basically classic Austro-Anglo-Italian menswear + nice jeans and the occasional sneaker, though I also dig minimalist houses like HL, JS, and Strenesse - I honestly didn't find the construction that exceptional. Just focusing on construction, I'd be hard pressed to call TB's stuff any better than Hickey Freeman mainline stuff. Or maybe Corneliani. A little more handwork here and there, but from what I've seen I don't believe that with TB one is getting a Saint Andrews/Belvest/Zegna/Martin Greenfield-level garment looking only at construction.
 

LabelKing

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Originally Posted by RJman
I believe I read here it's made by Rocco Siffredi?
"One of those endearingly Italian names" is what someone at Neiman Marcus told me about Thom Browne's manufacturer.
 

Get Smart

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Originally Posted by RJman
I believe I read here it's made by Rocco Siffredi?

Rocco does some very nice work. and he's quite the 'animal trainer'
 

Get Smart

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Originally Posted by Artisan Fan
I believe these high water pants are a black and white sartorial mistake. .
his RTW suits come unfinished at the trouser hem....you can make them as long or short as you want *I was at Barneys today adn they had a mannequin set up on the first floor wearing one of those silly outfits from his latest fashion show (with the train, shorts etc) saying "Thom Browne spring 07 4th floor" and when you go up there, you see that his REAL clothes are actually very normal and well cut.
 

ghulkhan

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yea his runway shows are ridiculous, you cant wear much of it. But a lot of designers have stuff on the runway most would never wear because it looks ridiculous. In person, Thom Brownes cltohes are regular clothing, theyre not outthere like in the shows. They are pretty amazing. For his suits, you can cut the pants however long you want just like GS said.
In an interview, Thom Browne said, he likes to promote the ankle revealing in his suit because thats him, but tahts not for everyone. People can cut them whatever lenght they want and are free to express themselves in anyway they like.
 

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