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New sport coat...please help with fit

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

First off this is my first post...been lurking and learning for a while before I signed up.  Lots of helpful folks on the board and I want to thank you for the knowledge shared.

 

I am very new to professional dress growing up in the Southern California surf / skate scene it was always baggy board shorts...tees and jeans.  Two things have inspired me to step up my appearance...over the last year or so I have lost over 50lbs and have been transitioning out of the lab and into project management. 

 

I have a very difficult body type to fit; broad shoulders, fairly trim waist (getting trimmer) and fairly large hip flexors and legs...thanks to 20 years of surfing and soccer.  With a ~9 inch drop any jacket or shirt that I try on if it fits in the shoulders it balloons in the waist and with pants if it fits in the hips / thighs it balloons in the waist etc.  My measurements (tape) if it helps: chest 42.5, waist 34, height 5'9", weight 168 lbs 

 

I picked up a sport coat with the recent BB clearance / FF sale and have a few questions about the fit.  This just arrived in the mail and has not been tailored or pressed.  Also please excuse the crappy phone / bathroom pics and shirt / shorts as I was in a hurry.  It is a Fitzgerald Fit Saxxon Herringbone with Deco in 44R.

 

With my newbie eye it seems to fit decent in the shoulders, sleeves need to come up, a bit of excess fabric between shoulders and waist needs to come in quite a bit?  Another concern is the amount of excess material in the chest area it seems to bunch up quite a bit under the arms and the chest.  It is also very baggy and loose around the middle. When the jacket is brought in at the waist how hard is it to remove this excess fabric, smooth out the chest and under the arms or will the tailor simply bring in the waist leaving me with batwings?

 

The rest... (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please give any thoughts you have and thanks for the help!

post #2 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swiper View Post

First off this is my first post...been lurking and learning for a while before I signed up.  Lots of helpful folks on the board and I want to thank you for the knowledge shared.

I am very new to professional dress growing up in the Southern California surf / skate scene it was always baggy board shorts...tees and jeans.  Two things have inspired me to step up my appearance...over the last year or so I have lost over 50lbs and have been transitioning out of the lab and into project management. 

I have a very difficult body type to fit; broad shoulders, fairly trim waist (getting trimmer) and fairly large hip flexors and legs...thanks to 20 years of surfing and soccer.  With a ~9 inch drop any jacket or shirt that I try on if it fits in the shoulders it balloons in the waist and with pants if it fits in the hips / thighs it balloons in the waist etc.  My measurements (tape) if it helps: chest 42.5, waist 34, height 5'9", weight 168 lbs 

I picked up a sport coat with the recent BB clearance / FF sale and have a few questions about the fit.  This just arrived in the mail and has not been tailored or pressed.  Also please excuse the crappy phone / bathroom pics and shirt / shorts as I was in a hurry.  It is a Fitzgerald Fit Saxxon Herringbone with Deco in 44R.

With my newbie eye it seems to fit decent in the shoulders, sleeves need to come up, a bit of excess fabric between shoulders and waist needs to come in quite a bit?  Another concern is the amount of excess material in the chest area it seems to bunch up quite a bit under the arms and the chest.  It is also very baggy and loose around the middle. When the jacket is brought in at the waist how hard is it to remove this excess fabric, smooth out the chest and under the arms or will the tailor simply bring in the waist leaving me with batwings?

The rest... (Click to show)














Please give any thoughts you have and thanks for the help!

Congratulations! From the photo it looks like you scored
I would suggest having the waist shaped. You'll have to
find an excellent tailor because the work you require
demands a high level of skill. My tailor would do the job
to perfection. Where are you based?
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks...so you think the fit is workable then?

I am in Southern California.
post #4 of 11

It's difficult to tell what's going on with the length when your shirt is untucked.  For fit pics you should always dress up as if you were actually going to wear it, otherwise we can't tell what it would look like when you're wearing it.

post #5 of 11
Firstly, the area around the waist looks MASSIVE. If you bought a regular fit sport coat to fit your shoulders and are truly a drop 9, as you have found, you are gonna be swimming in it.

Did you try on the next smaller size? Shoulder fit looks ok, but could probably be tightened up a bit. Sleeves are long as you mentioned. Length is impossible to tell.

Honestly, if you attempt to add in waist suppresion to get that to fit nicely, I think it would end up looking odd.

you may want to consider trimmed fit offerings like the fitz or a different brand all together.
post #6 of 11
I have the same issues you do with a drop of anywhere between 9 and 11 inches and I also have a bubble butt. Adding all these aspects together makes it quite challenging to fit a jacket properly.

If one of the resident tailors doesn't pop in here you could try cross-posting in this thread. (I have a couple of posts around #1800)

I have a 42R BB sport coat that needed the same type of alterations you do. I had the shoulders taken in, waist suppressed, roll at the bottom of the collar taken out and the sleeves shortened. I'm also going to take it back to have it let out across the hips a bit and the quarters opened a bit. The results so far are in the thread I linked.
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post

Firstly, the area around the waist looks MASSIVE. If you bought a regular fit sport coat to fit your shoulders and are truly a drop 9, as you have found, you are gonna be swimming in it.
Did you try on the next smaller size? Shoulder fit looks ok, but could probably be tightened up a bit. Sleeves are long as you mentioned. Length is impossible to tell.
Honestly, if you attempt to add in waist suppresion to get that to fit nicely, I think it would end up looking odd.
you may want to consider trimmed fit offerings like the fitz or a different brand all together.

I did not try it on before purchase...I bought online...reason below 

 

Having dropped so much weight I needed to buy all new clothes from scratch and needed an interview suit or two.  In June I went in to BB and tried on all the different coats and found that with my shoulders the Fitz felt the best.  44R is what two of the SA's both suggested.  I tried the suits but the trousers with the 44 were I think 38 and the tailor looked and said "no go"  At this point they suggested the "suiting essentials"  They took all of my measurements and I ordered two suits in 44R, 33W.  I probably should have taken more time and been better educated for the suit purchase but I had no clothes that fit and am looking for new work opportunities and need a suit yesterday.  And since I am still dropping weight did not want to spend a ton of money on a expensive suit at this point.

 

So given the above, I saw this Fitz SC online and figured it should fit relatively similar to the Fitz suit jacket.  Not knowing enough about proper suit fit I was hoping to get an honest opinion on whether I should keep this and tailor it or return it.  From all I have read the length is OK...just covers my rear.  My main concern is the shoulders and chest / waist excess fabric.

 

I was lounging in soccer shorts and a tee when the delivery came so i just threw on a shirt and tried on the jacket I know it isn't "fit pic" worthy but young kids and dinner time don't mix with getting properly dressed smile.gif  

 

Thanks for all the replies.

post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by James77 View Post

I have the same issues you do with a drop of anywhere between 9 and 11 inches and I also have a bubble butt. Adding all these aspects together makes it quite challenging to fit a jacket properly.
If one of the resident tailors doesn't pop in here you could try cross-posting in this thread. (I have a couple of posts around #1800)
I have a 42R BB sport coat that needed the same type of alterations you do. I had the shoulders taken in, waist suppressed, roll at the bottom of the collar taken out and the sleeves shortened. I'm also going to take it back to have it let out across the hips a bit and the quarters opened a bit. The results so far are in the thread I linked.

 Thanks for the link...i'll check it out

post #9 of 11
shop for an athletic cut that has a 7 or 8 inch drop from chest to waist. It will still be big around the waist but not as big.
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

shop for an athletic cut that has a 7 or 8 inch drop from chest to waist. It will still be big around the waist but not as big.

How does one determine the drop of a jacket?  Is it only by trying on?

 

Thanks

post #11 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

Congratulations! From the photo it looks like you scored
I would suggest having the waist shaped. You'll have to
find an excellent tailor because the work you require
demands a high level of skill. My tailor would do the job
to perfection. Where are you based?

Try Enzo Caruso in Santa Monica. He's highly recommended by SF members.
He actually does bespoke.

"I've been happy with Enzo Caruso out in Santa Monica. He does good work, and I trust his advice about what needs to be done to achieve a good fit--he never tries to push unnecessary services, and he'll warn against alteration requests that he thinks aren't likely to work out. Very friendly guy as well. I've seen some complaints about his turnaround time on bespoke clothing, but at least with regard to alterations whenever I've needed something done by a deadline he's been able to do it. He does charge a little more than your typical "We do alterations!" type of place, but IMO it's worth it if you're doing anything more ambitious than hemming pants."- from SF last year
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