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Elite Suits - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 20

post #286 of 444
Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon at Elite View Post


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 


 

Is it possible to specify and have the button height adjusted on your MTM patterns? That suit looks pretty good, but the jacket would look way less bottom-heavy if the button was at the height of the ticket pocket.

 

I have no idea why this strange shift to high buttons is so prevalent. It makes the shoulders look smaller and the love handles larger. It doesn't make anyone look better.

post #287 of 444
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebarne View Post

Here is a photo of a curtained/pleated waistband. I believe they use a 3 button closure as well. I know Zanella is a 3 button.

Your photo never appeared but I think this is what you're after

 

 

I doubt if it could be done on the cheaper suits but I have a couple of curtain waistbands in suits made by our specialist bespoke tailors so yes we can do it.

post #288 of 444
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post

Is it possible to specify and have the button height adjusted on your MTM patterns? That suit looks pretty good, but the jacket would look way less bottom-heavy if the button was at the height of the ticket pocket.

 

I have no idea why this strange shift to high buttons is so prevalent. It makes the shoulders look smaller and the love handles larger. It doesn't make anyone look better.

 

Most MTM outlets, both online and instore, use the big suit factories. They have a house pattern and won't change it as it means pulling the suit off the production line and adjusting it individually and that adds to the cost.

 

All our full canvas suits, from the Beijing Collection and up, are individually made by trained tailors in their own workshops. This is as far away from factory made as you can get. A tiny workshop with one cutting bench and a single specialist tailors sewing machine and all they make is full canvas suits. As each suit is individually made anyway, deviations from the standard pattern do not cause any problems as there is no production line anyway.

 

The suit pictured is from the Milan Collection and is a full canvas suit made from a nice Italian milled wool. As it's made by our personal tailoring service described above then small adjustments from the standard pattern are possible. So lowering the button stance or increasing the lapel size can be done.

 

What I would suggest then when you do your measurements you use an existing suit to determine your jacket length and then tell us how far from the bottom of the suit you want the top button.

post #289 of 444

Ah, perfect.

 

I've been eyeing off the milan/huddersfield combo as a tax-return present to myself. As long as i can tweak a couple of things, i'm totally in.

 

Do you know which fabric that Milan is in? Is it plain dark blue (M087)?

 

Just waiting on my test shirt before i pull the trigger on the big order.

post #290 of 444
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post

Ah, perfect.

 

I've been eyeing off the milan/huddersfield combo as a tax-return present to myself. As long as i can tweak a couple of things, i'm totally in.

 

Do you know which fabric that Milan is in? Is it plain dark blue (M087)?

 

Just waiting on my test shirt before i pull the trigger on the big order.

It's a new fabric not listed on the site. We have access to over 2,000 different fabrics and only a small selection are listed at any one time. We have stock available of it though.

 

Don't wait too long. Prices are going to rise very soon

post #291 of 444
Thread Starter 

The last three Milan/English bespoke wool suit packages have been sold to customers in England, Australia and Canada.

 

I'm a little surprised that there haven't been more purchases from US based customers. With recent currency fluctuations stateside buyers are effectively getting almost a 10% discount across the whole range of suits. That brings the price down to just over $1,100 for the package or a touch over $550 per suit.

 

When you look around at what's available elsewhere I think $550 for a hand made full canvas suit made from a quality Italian milled fabric is a great deal in itself but look what you get for the other $550.

 

A suit made from cloth milled in Huddersfield UK considered by the world over as the home of fine suiting wool. HIgh quality Australian merino wool from some of the world's greatest clothmakers. Choose between Holland & Sherry, Clissolds or Huddersfield Cloth each of whom supply the worlds greatest bespoke tailors including Savile Row. I mean have a look at this for example. A super 150's "Cool Wool" from one of the best mills in the world that normally wholesales to the trade at over $200 a metre.

 

The suit is not only full hand made but hand stitched with over 4,000 individual hand made stitches by a specialist bespoke tailor. This is worlds best tailoring and with both high quality tailoring and wool it results in a suit that you would expect to pay many thousands for at your local tailor.

 

So two suits. The Milan for everyday wear and a suit any man would be proud to wear for those times when you need to look your absolute best.When you consider that you can easily pay $1,000 for two factory made fused suits elsewhere this is a true bargain.

 

Value like this should not be missed so Start Here then add your choice for our "Almost Bespoke" range in the Holland & Sherry, Clissolds or Huddersfield fabrics and only pay a little over $1,100 US dollars for two beautiful suits

post #292 of 444

I have received my handmade double breasted suit and the replacement trousers. I just finished giving them a quick steam. Fit pictures and review to come tomorrow. 

post #293 of 444
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stebbin View Post

I have received my handmade double breasted suit and the replacement trousers. I just finished giving them a quick steam. Fit pictures and review to come tomorrow. 

...looking forward to it. This could "open the flood gates" for those who are on the fence.

post #294 of 444

I gave the suit a quick press and here are some photos. The fabric is a very dark blue wool with a red overcheck and it has a "Buckingham" selvedge. I purchased a slightly different grade of handmade suit where some of the internal stitches are made by machine but the external ones are done by hand and the quality in the workmanship far exceeded the $200 Milan suit that I received earlier. I went with a Tom Fordeque double breasted design with very wide lapels and pocket flaps. Unfortunately, the tailors had the internal jigger button in the wrong position. Five minutes with some thread and needlework fixed that. 

 

 

It was nice to see the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel.  

 

 

Front of the suit. It was nice to see that the tailors had accommodated one of my shoulders, which is slightly lower than the other. The shoulders are quite lightly padded. As for the sleeves, the shirt I had on had slightly shorter cuffs so there isn't very much showing in the photo. However, this suit will go brilliantly with some of my other shirts. . 

 

There is a patch at the bottom of the jacket where I missed while pressing the suit. But otherwise, not too bad. 
 

 

The order was arrived with the replacement pair of trousers from my earlier Milan suit and it was nice to see the tailors had adjusted the rise so the wrinkles are not so apparent. It was also supposed to ship with a shirt which was noticeably absent. I have emailed Simon about this. However, what I quite like about the suit is the handiwork. The lining was a nice thick silk/bemberg material, the buttons were horn and the stitching was very beautifully done. They also used contrast lining for the sleeves, which was a nice touch. 

 

 

 

It's slightly frustrating the order took so long to arrive but it was well worthwhile. 

post #295 of 444
Not bad and the fabric looks very nice. I'd perhaps shorten the sleeves 1cm. Nice wide lapels.

The pockets look really big though, bigger than anything I've ever seen and your eyes are drawn straight to them. I'd get them re-cut 1-1.5cm shorter.
post #296 of 444
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Not bad and the fabric looks very nice. I'd perhaps shorten the sleeves 1cm. Nice wide lapels.

The pockets look really big though, bigger than anything I've ever seen and your eyes are drawn straight to them. I'd get them re-cut 1-1.5cm shorter.

 

I agree. They are massive! The shoulders look a bit wrinkled too, although it's hard to see from these shots. Overall though, this looks infinitely better than anything that was posted earlier in this thread.

post #297 of 444
Thanks for the post; the suit looks good (especially like the fabric).

How do the armholes feel? Would you consider slimming them?

I think the pockets look cool.
post #298 of 444
I've been to Simon's website, and it's a little difficult to navigate. What's his absolute top of the line suit?
post #299 of 444
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Thanks for the post; the suit looks good (especially like the fabric).

How do the armholes feel? Would you consider slimming them?

I think the pockets look cool.

Armholes are great, quite high but also very comfortable.  It's a big difference from some earlier suits where they just modified an existing pattern and I ended up with suits where I cannot really cross my arms comfortably. They've really nailed this one. As for the sleeves, I have been working out recently and had been looking for something a bit fuller in the arms. This suit works out quite well. I might go ahead and have a tailor trim the pockets at some point but it's not really a big issue and I think it looks alright for this suit, which is already quite bold. 

post #300 of 444
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stebbin View Post

I gave the suit a quick press and here are some photos. The fabric is a very dark blue wool with a red overcheck and it has a "Buckingham" selvedge. I purchased a slightly different grade of handmade suit where some of the internal stitches are made by machine but the external ones are done by hand and the quality in the workmanship far exceeded the $200 Milan suit that I received earlier. I went with a Tom Fordeque double breasted design with very wide lapels and pocket flaps. Unfortunately, the tailors had the internal jigger button in the wrong position. Five minutes with some thread and needlework fixed that. 


It was nice to see the Milanese buttonhole on the lapel.  




- doesn't seem like a Milanese lapel buttonhole..
- the hand finishing is not bad
- unfortunately the flap pockets and ticket pocket are drawing too much attention
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