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Elite Suits - Official Affiliate Thread - Page 16

post #226 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Geez fellas, way to act like a bunch of tools....

Elite may not be your cup of tea (and they arent mine either fwiw) but at least have just a little bit of respect for the advertisers on this site, that are trying to run a business and respect that Simon pays money to have this thread active. If you don't like it just move on to the next thread.

What about the guys who pay good money and come out looking like that?

Or about the people who come to SF looking for the unbiased (and usually unvarnished) assessment of people who aren't trying to sell anything?

It's fairly obvious that Simon has just about zero interest in constructive criticism - others have tried.

I don't feel any special deference towards an affiliate not least of all because I think that sort of thing helped make Ask Andy what it is today.
post #227 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I think people who actually purchased from Simon should be the ones to comment on the fit/quality of the suits; alot of the comments in this thread have crossed over into trolling.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Simon was trying to make the point that his suits are manufactured by tailors who put in more man hours than what is put into a typical Tom Ford suit.
It's been acknowledged that TF suits are made in a factory, whereas Simon's suits are made in a small tailoring shop.

So I think instead of making a general statement like "our suits are better than Tom Ford suits", it would be more accurate to say "It takes xx hours to create our suits, compared to Tom Ford suits which take xxx hours".

I with Simon the best of luck in his endeavour, and look forward to seeing more fit pics from customers.

 

If there were actual customers willing to post in here, provide comments and pictures, that would be great. They are notably absent, so all we have is Simon's salesmanship to comment on.

post #228 of 435
The Ehaberdasher affiliate thread is interesting too as some customers identified issues with their suits as well, but it didn't degenerate into a troll fest like we're seeing here. (Correct me if I'm incorrect about my recollection about Ehab suit issues).
post #229 of 435

A few of my pictures have already made its way into this thread but I placed an order for a blue windowpane double breasted suit and a petrol-blue single breasted with Simon the other day. I'll post some pictures when they arrive. 

post #230 of 435
I know nothing about Simon or Elite, but I too feel that many posts on this thread have been harsh to the point of rudeness. Criticism is one thing, anonymous vituperation is another.
post #231 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendragon View Post

I know nothing about Simon or Elite, but I too feel that many posts on this thread have been harsh to the point of rudeness. Criticism is one thing, anonymous vituperation is another.

"Idiocy" is a more fitting word than "rudeness."...but this is an internet forum. What do you expect? The fact that it's a Classic Menswear thread doesn't make the people less juvenile.

post #232 of 435
Thread Starter 

After reading my posting on the Tom Ford suit and subsequent comments I have to admit that perhaps I could have phrased it better. So how about I rewrite it as follows.

 

In my opinion (and more importantly the customer's) our suit was made from a superior fabric and had a better overall standard of tailoring than the original although there were some advanced tailoring techniques used on the original Tom Ford suit that were not used on ours.

 

However, the customer did not want an exact copy. He already has one Tom Ford suit he didn't want simply another. This suit retained some of the features, omitted others and changed some of them completely hence why I said "Inspired by Tom Ford" not a copy of the suit

 

If you read my blog it's easy to determine I'm not a big fan of designer label suits and to be frank this was no exception. It is an extremely nice suit but there is nothing in the materials used or the tailoring that comes anywhere near justifying the price tag. The $2 label on the suit is worth far more at retail level than the suit itself. Designers such as Tom Ford and others are extremely rich for a reason in that they add massive markups to their garments and operate on huge margins. By the time it reaches the customer they are paying many times the actual cost of making the suit. If I was going to pay the money charged by the local distributor for this suit I'd instead have a suit made by John Cutler who is considered one of the world's great tailors

 

The tailors we use to make our high end suits do nothing else but make suits for bespoke tailors all over the world. In today's global economy fewer and fewer tailors actually make their own suits and rather outsource their tailoring to either Asia or less frequently northern Europe. These are often suits that cost $3,000, $5,000 or even more. In many cases the suits are made to baste stage, shipped to the tailor for the fitting then shipped back for completion.

 

These tailors must undergo regular training to ensure they keep up to date with the latest trends. They are usually trained by the same companies that train tailors on Savile Row and in some cases the tailors are sent to spend some time working on the Row itself. There is little that is brand new in tailoring but if a special technique suddenly becomes popular due to it being a feature on a designer label suit, you can be sure that the tailors are trained quickly in how to do it as they will be asked for it. As an example only, if the customer had requested Milanese buttonholes and the tailor didn't readily understand what it was I would have pulled the order straight away and sent it to one that does.

 

As just about every other online site and most menswear outlets offering a MTM service as well as many people calling themselves "bespoke tailors" are little more than an order takers for the big Asian suit factories, who supply everything including the fabric and slap together a machine made fused canvas suit, I can fully understand some of the skepticism shown here. Let me assure you that this is as far from mass produced factory tailoring as you can get. We source our own fabrics independently of the tailor including importing some of them directly from England ourselves and use some of Asia's best tailors to make our high end suits. If you go to a bespoke tailor and pay $3,000 or more for a suit there is a good chance it will be actually made by the very same tailors we use or another company in Asia or Europe doing exactly the same thing.

 

Even our basic $399 Beijing Suit is not a mass produced factory made suit. Instead it's made by two trained and experienced tailors who operate independently in their own tiny workshops. One makes nothing else but trousers and the other specialises in making full canvas jackets. Put them together and you have a very good hand made full canvas suit at a price equal to what many of our competitors charge for their mass produced fused canvas suits.

 

A full canvas suit handmade by an experienced tailor in his own workshop as compared to a fused canvas suit slapped together by machines in a massive suit factory. For a start I'd pay more for the full canvas suit made by a real tailor so if they are the same price to me it's a no brainer.

post #233 of 435
Good explanation. I think Armani Collezioni is one of the best examples of expensive branding. It's a diffusion line that costs more than Canali, Corneliani, Pal Zileri and RLBL at retail because it has the word 'Armani' in it; and it's fused in many cases.

I'm not hating on Armani btw; just commenting on how branding can inflate the price of a garment considerably.
post #234 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Good explanation. I think Armani Collezioni is one of the best examples of expensive branding. It's a diffusion line that costs more than Canali, Corneliani, Pal Zileri and RLBL at retail because it has the word 'Armani' in it; and it's fused in many cases.

I'm not hating on Armani btw; just commenting on how branding can inflate the price of a garment considerably.

It absolutely can. That's a big part of the reason for why I'm intrigued by Elite Suits. The website (and Simon) are a bit wordy, but it's also very specific about the details of the fabric, construction and workmanship. There isn't a lot of vague language and sales talk. We know the names associated with the fabrics. We know the production methods. We can judge for ourselves, and at those prices, it's very tempting.

 

As far as some of the pictures go, MOST of the pictures on SF don't show great fit, but when a member who knows a thing or two is involved, usually the results turn out well. The bad fit pictures usually have more to do with the buyer not knowing what the heck he's doing than they do with the actual brands/companies. I'm guessing that that would be the case with Elite Suits as well, and if the company can deliver the fabrics and production methods that are promoted, it could be something great for those of us who care about those things.

post #235 of 435

To anyone who has ordered an on-line MTM suit, is there any ADDITIONAL measurements (gorge, biceps, wrist etc.) that should be taken to ensure a better fit? I understand that the first fit may not be the best fit but if there are measurements that could be taken to alleviate the common issues then I'd like to know.

post #236 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKongoEmpire View Post

To anyone who has ordered an on-line MTM suit, is there any ADDITIONAL measurements (gorge, biceps, wrist etc.) that should be taken to ensure a better fit? I understand that the first fit may not be the best fit but if there are measurements that could be taken to alleviate the common issues then I'd like to know.

I think it is helpful to visit a good tailor who can provide additional comments on your measurements including sleeve pitch, shoulder type and other specifications before ordering. For my first suit, I didn't know that one of my shoulders was slightly lower than the other and it wasn't until I visited a reputable tailor for alterations that I was made aware of that. I think sending a picture to the tailor would also help with getting a more accurate fit. 

post #237 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKongoEmpire View Post

To anyone who has ordered an on-line MTM suit, is there any ADDITIONAL measurements (gorge, biceps, wrist etc.) that should be taken to ensure a better fit? I understand that the first fit may not be the best fit but if there are measurements that could be taken to alleviate the common issues then I'd like to know.

Bicep and wrist are pretty standard measurements. I've found that one thing that makes a difference is when the company takes both the yoke and top of shoulder measurements. It could be because of my straight posture or the fact that I'm a more fit person, but when companies only take the yoke measurement, the shoulders are never right. They're either too big in the back or too small in the front.

 

Giving info about front rise AND back rise and both chest AND back measurements can have the same impact. When companies allow for both front and back measurements, it gives a more custom fit. Of course, I can understand that a lot of people don't want to take the time to get all of those measurements, but it makes a difference to me. Some online mtm companies do it. Some don't.

post #238 of 435
What's the yoke measurement?
post #239 of 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by facet View Post

What's the yoke measurement?

Across the upper back, from shoulder to shoulder. Some companies just call it the "shoulder measurement," but for me, it works best when combined with a measurement from the top of the shoulder.

post #240 of 435
Thank you gentlemen.

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