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Thoughts on Gloverall Monty Not Being 100% Wool?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

What are some of your thoughts on the Gloverall Original Monty not being 100% wool?  The website lists it as being 90% wool and 10% polyamide.  I can't keep  from thinking that this somehow cheapens or lessens the quality and authenticity of the garment.  Surely Nigel Cabourn and Umit Benan wouldn't put a synthetic in any of their wool overcoats...right? 

 

And herein lies the conundrum: I love the Gloverall Monty.  I love everything about it--the history, the cut, drape, style, jute rope and wood toggles (and the fact that there are 3 toggles for 2012 rather than 4), the length, the colors and perhaps most importantly, the fact that it comes in my size (36). 

 

But that polyamide is niggling the hell out of me in the back of my mind.  I know I won't be able to feel or see this additional material, but that doesn't erase the fact that it's an alien, synthetic element in an otherwise natural fiber. 

 

Why is it even there?  Durability?  I can't see that being the case, since there are many 60+ year old wool garments that are in fine shape without anything added to it.  Wool is one of the strongest fibers in the world.  Cost?  So what if a 100% wool coat costs more to make.  Make it right, with quality (natural) materials and there will be people that will pay what you say it costs.

 

I want this coat, I really do.  I want to forget about the polyamide but lately I've been having a hard time doing so.  I also like the history of Gloverall, but I hate synthetics and don't want some many-made material in my traditional looking garment.  The bottom line is, in my opinion, that it detracts from it on many levels.   

 

I'm looking for people to talk me in or out of buying this thing.  I want it, but I want it to be 100% wool (which I guess given the current circumstances, is a moot point).  I've already contacted Gloverall and they offer no made-to-order service so for the time being it is what it is.  Alas, the deciding factor in all of this is cost.  I currently lack the money to have a pure wool duffle coat made for me.  So sad.

 

Am I being too sensitive and over analytical about all of this?  Or is my paranoia justifed?

post #2 of 7

polyamide is used in many garments that will get in contact with water.

for instance most swimming trunks will be made entirely of polyamide because this synthetic fibre has the advantage of 'drying' really really quickly.

 

putting it in a small percentage in an overcoat fabric makes sense to me and in general small percentages of synthetic fibres can have very good benefits to a garment but usually get a bad rep.

 

I wrote drying in quotes because polyamide actually absorbs water and stores it in it's amorphous regions before releasing it to the humid air again. after the coat get's wet once, the fibres become even stronger and more durable.

that is why nylon (PA 6) stockings don't get runs as easily after they have been machine washed as opposed to new stockings right out of the packaging.

 

simply put synthetic fibres are a technological accomplishment and if used correctly are an advantage which we didn't have a few decades ago. if you look for function I'd say go for the coat. If you want a delicate luxurious item save up for a 100% cashmere or vicuna. this will be softer but ruined after the first rain shower.

 

source i'm an engineer. no I don't wear stockings myself.

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

Thank you for your reply.  I appreciate you shedding light on the material.  I feel a lot better about purchasing it now.  Did not know about any of which you said.  I certainly will be getting it [somewhat] wet as I plan on getting a beige colored coat and will find myself crouching on the edge of a semi-frozen, corn stubble field hunting ducks and geese at year's end and plan on wearing my Monty to stave off the elements.  Thanks again.  Truly. 

post #4 of 7
Dont buy it. Not because of the nylon, but because (I'm assuming here) you're not five years old in the infants school and you're not Paddington Bear.

I know all about the RN history but that has been eclipsed by its use for kiddies. When I see a grown man in a duffel coat I check to see if he has a pair of mittens on a long string passed through the sleeves so they don't get lost.

Get yourself a pea coat and/or a chesterfield or bridge coat, covert coat or something similar that will augment your manhood.
post #5 of 7
A duffle would not be my first choice for hunting plus I don't think you should be anywhere near firearms.
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 

Opinions are like assholes, ladies.  And yours both suck.  smile.gif

post #7 of 7
I used to be put off by synthetic fabrics but I'm starting to appreciate the technical advantages. I have a Sartorio duffle coat made from 80% wool / 20% polyamide and the fabric is really nice. They obviously didn't choose that particular cloth in order to cut costs. My current favourite jacket is from Ten C and it's made of a 60% polyester / 40% nylon micro knit that is unbelievable.
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