Commissioning MTM strong (roped?) shoulder suit

Hello to the forum,

I am relatively new to posting but was wondering if some of you might be able to offer assistance with helping me track down a tailor that would be well suited to putting together a suit with the qualities below. As of today I am debating whether going with A. Giliberto or Haramjani brothers. I am looking for the advice of any of you that has had suits made by one of them or by anyone that you think might be able to make a structured (roped?) shoulder a la Tom Ford.

Reason why I don't just get TF: Cost
Budget: around 1.5k (I know NY is expensive but I'm a young guy and don't have the resources or lifestyle to justify 5k on a suit. I just want a well constructed garment that will help me look better when I'm wearing it not just as good)
Age: 24
Height: 5'9"
Weight: 165 (dont weight myself often)
Suit purpose: Special formal occasions or meeting clients
Reason why this is appropriate: I have fairly standard 38-39R shoulders but a prominent seat with wide hip bones
Cloth: Nothing too fancy a nice dark blue
Lapel Size: Nothing too skinny and nothing Tom Ford huge like
Slim Fit: waist suppression, 7.5-7.75 leg opening (I know it seems narrow but trust me the width of my hip bone makes me have to play with proportions

Other suit requests if relevant:
Fit: slim (i.e. maybe stay away from tailors that like to make roomier suits)
Side tab adjusters on pants
Double vent
Have been told that more "open quarters" on the jacket would help mask the size of my hipbone, and and two darts on the seat of my pants would help my pants fit better


Hopefully one of you can point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance and if I have inadvertently violated any forum rule please pardon in advance.

Best,

A young guy looking for some wisdom

Also worth mentioning is that I live in NY

i would go with giliberto.
they will fit you there.cut the suit and give you several fittings.

Hemrajani does nice work, but if it is not what you want. getting it right will be time consuming.

Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn.



jcep said:

meeting clients
7.5-7.75 leg openin

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not a good idea

Thanks Carl and Topos. For my reference, have any of you seen a suit in this style made by any of these tailors? I know they both make suits for a few clients in different styles (Giliberto allegedly even for presidents and Greenfield stores like Band of Outsiders and Rag & Bone) but I am concerned that this type of shoulder is made by Zegna and that the expertise necessary to replicate this would be beyond these tailors' respective skills or, more likely, my pricepoint.

Appreciate the input Quadcammer, I have heard that from tailors before. Could you elaborate? I can submit pics if necessary but I am basically an endomorph with a large hip, thighs, seat so this is the only way I have found to get a masculine V shape

I understand the desire for the v-shape, but a 7.5 leg opening will look very strange unless you have very small feet and get the break perfect (i.e. none) with adequate slant to the hem.

For a going out or whatever suit, no biggie. To meet with clients, I think you'll want 8" at least.



jcep said:

T I can submit pics if necessary but I am basically an endomorph with a large hip, thighs, seat so this is the only way I have found to get a masculine V shape

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The V starts at the outside of your shoulders. Down your waist. Then ends at your V which is in your pants

I see your point, however this would not address my problem with having proportionally large thighs. I'm relatively fit but this problem area makes a tapered pant somewhat of a necessity because with a straight leg pant my legs look like tree trunks. In any case thank you for taking the time to offer your suggestion.

Seriously, dont you think big thighs+small leg openning look un-proportioned? It actually reminds me some carrots. Don't take it wrong, but I do believe normal leg openning will benefit you.

Where did you get the idea for that small leg openings? If you have pants like that, put up a picture.

Quadcammer said:

not a good idea

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I literally lol-ed at this.

Quadcammer said:

I understand the desire for the v-shape, but a 7.5 leg opening will look very strange unless you have very small feet and get the break perfect (i.e. none) with adequate slant to the hem.
For a going out or whatever suit, no biggie. To meet with clients, I think you'll want 8" at least.

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You think that a .5 inch difference in leg opening is going to make or break him? Come on...At that size, it's either going to be a problem, or it's not.

I have big thighs. Levi's 501s that are big in the waist are skin tight in the thighs. I also have relatively large ankles.. Wearing smaller/tighter pants doesn't hide your legs. It draws attention to them.

It seems you want a slimmer cut suit. Lean chest. Slimmer legs. I have little doubt it'll put all the things you don't like on display.



VinnyMac said:

You think that a .5 inch difference in leg opening is going to make or break him? Come on...At that size, it's either going to be a problem, or it's not.

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meh i hear you, but if thats the look he wants, baby steps may help