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MTOing a "teachers suit". - Page 2

post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post

Whatever you do, don't add elbow patches from the start. If they actually wear through, fine, add elbow patches. But not before.

 

Why not? If they look acceptable late then do they not look acceptable early?

post #17 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

I think Azabu Tailor is a little expensive for what you get, but at the same time, it's not that expensive overall. I saw a site but can't remember the name doing blowouts on MTM from name brand bolts. I will try to dig it up. I think they were in the 30,000Y range for 2P.

 

Big Vision has a sale until October 14th with Loro Piana, Dunhill, Scabard and a few others at half price, which comes down to 42.500 yen for a domestic made, Loro Piana cloth 2-piece. Considering that too - in fact, both suits will (almost) fit within my budget, but Italian Super 120 summer wool is hardly daily beater workwear for me in terms of durability.

post #18 of 20
I am a fan of Big Vision, but wonder if it is fair to compare the mid-weight domestic-made wool you found at Fukuoka to Big Vision's Loro Piana, Dunhill, Scabal in super 140's. Big Vision has something similar to the Fukuoka last bolt. Usually just in front of the door you can find bolts of fabric for starter suits at Y19,000. Most of the fabrics are wool/poly blends, but some of them are 100% wool. They are almost always domestically made fabrics, names like Daido, Spaulding, Beverly Hills Polo Club, etc., and often are the last length of material. Because you are thin, you should be able to take advantage of this. The last I checked, these suits were made overseas and did not offer some of the features available on the domestically produced ones.

Since you have researched the usual suspects, you probably know that most of them clear out the winter cloth in February and the summer cloth in August. If you are not in a hurry, and bide your time, you should be able to find something as good or better than the Fukuoka bolt for Y29,000. I suppose that is one way of suggesting that if you are hesitating on the Fukuoka fabric, and your budget is higher than the Y20,000 I am relatively confident that better fabric will come along.

I agree that Styleforvm has never been about need, but I also have stumbled upon lengths of cloth that seemed like such a good deal (navy blue Richard James Super 140's with electric purple stripes for Y14,000, anyone?) but in the end languished in the closet.

It sounds like you have two conservative suits, so your next job interview, wedding, and funeral are each taken care of. The teachers suit sounds great, though I wouldn't go with leather buttons or with suede elbow patches.

Bic
post #19 of 20
Thread Starter 
Big Vision has something similar to the Fukuoka last bolt. Usually just in front of the door you can find bolts of fabric for starter suits at Y19,000. Most of the fabrics are wool/poly blends, but some of them are 100% wool. They are almost always domestically made fabrics, names like Daido, Spaulding, Beverly Hills Polo Club, etc., and often are the last length of material. Because you are thin, you should be able to take advantage of this. 

 

I've checked out 4 Big Vision stores so far (mostly because they have stores almost everywhere in Tokyo), but the problem is that the domestic fabric needs to fill a tall order of specs: 

 

1. No polyester

2. Not grey, black or navy

3. Not striped (I look freakish in stripes)

4. A bit of texture

5. A check pattern to give some visual width (optional)

 

These criteria sadly eliminate the vast majority of fabrics. What suprised me at Fukuoka was that they carried brown, tan and even pale green solids,in gabardine 100% wool, which fills all my criteria except the optional last. 

 

 

 

Since you have researched the usual suspects, you probably know that most of them clear out the winter cloth in February and the summer cloth in August. If you are not in a hurry, and bide your time, you should be able to find something as good or better than the Fukuoka bolt for Y29,000. I suppose that is one way of suggesting that if you are hesitating on the Fukuoka fabric, and your budget is higher than the Y20,000 I am relatively confident that better fabric will come along.
 
Frankly I'm beging to doubt that I'll find much more that fills my specs above as I've checked out over 10 tailor shops by now. The only other decent option I've found was this (sorry for the crappy picture):

 

This is the best Big Vision could currently offer - it's the brown and white Loro Piana Super 120's with purple windowpane. It's currently offered for half the above listed price, so 42.500 yen.  
 
I've never experienced the February sales however, so I'd love to hear anything you can tell me about them. Do they bring out new cloth for sales or is it just clearance of leftovers?
 
In any case, considering how men in Tokyo dress I doubt Fukuoka will be getting rid of all their green/brown/tan gabardine any time soon, so I'll take your advice and keep looking. Again, thanks a lot for the useful input!
post #20 of 20
Thread Starter 

As for the design of the suit itself, I'm starting to discover how flattering the right DB suit is by adding that extra width that I badly need.

 

In fact, I wore my only DB sportscoat when doing todays rounds at the tailors, and quite a few of them complemented on it and suggested that I go with a DB design as well. 

 

A DB suit might sound a little too imposing for a classroom situation, but in brown or tan in a soft model without shoulder padding, and supressed waist to eliminate boxiness I don't think it will be too stiff. I would pair it mostly with cotton turtlenecks and later with one of those merino wool turtlenecks Uniqlo are comming out with this fall.

 

Something along these lines (without the tie and the shirt).

 

 

 

 

Worn like this (but with no pinstripes ofc):

 

 

 

 

I teach French and world history, if that helps to understand the look I'm going for. :) 

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