Strolling around the tailors Shinkuku station (there are at least 5-6 of them with easy walking distance from each other) last night I found something rather rare for Tokyo MTO tailors (who mainly carter to the CBD salarymen crowd); a mid-weight domestic-made wool in a darker tan/mustard color, similar to the classic color for corduroy. Damn cheap too, and as they wanted to get rid of the last bolt, I was offered it at half price (just below 20.000 yen for a 2 piece – yes, Tokyo can be cheap sometimes).
As I'm starting teaching next month, I've been contemplating a “teachers suit”. My Japanese colleagues will wear anything from solid black 3-pieces to jeans/ shirts or T-shirts to sweats (at least PE teachers do, both in classroom and in the gymnasium), so I really don't need to worry about my workplace.
The tailor in questions (Tailor Fukuoka) has 5 models to chose from; given my rather gaunt build, I pretty much down to picking between the “British slim” and the “Italian slim”.
I tried on several sample jackets and the British slim is clearly a better (snugger) fit with slim armholes.
As can be expected tough, it gives a bit “stiffer” impression compared to the slightly looser italian-inspiried cut.
The makeup I'm considering going with the “British slim” model and then add a few touches to soften up the impression a bit.
1. Little to no padding in the shoulders (I have sloped shoulders but not totally sure what is best here).
2. All patch pockets.
3. Elbow patches in dark or mid-brown brown suede.
4. Notched lapels, single breasted 3-button-rolled.
5. Considering leather buttons (will this too funky on a suit you think?)
Will be worn with turtlenecks and suede shoes a good deal of the time.
Cloth has the ribbed structure as the cloth in the photo below (color is different, of course).