What are the greatest menswear brands of all time? - Page 24

Originally Posted by Klobber 

In the confusing subterranean region of menswear classification, I can understand how some people can despise Ralph Lauren as a brand. A common and reasonable complaint / dislike will no doubt revolve around aesthetic creativity and the corresponding brand image burned onto the retina and stored in the inner sanctum. They are not a brand for the non conformist or the individualist.
A clothing line in many a sense tells a story and the essence of a good collection is to captivate, entertain, and whisk oneself into that parallel world of fantasy. There is more to clothing than mere "look", "whimsy", "attitude" or "presenting oneself". One only has to look at Prada / Lanvin / Dior / YSL and see how their story unfolds season after season. Like a good movie, it intertwines numerous sub plots intricately to form a masterpiece. While Ralph Lauren are by no means a one trick pony, it is clear that season after season the story repeats over and over. Ralph Lauren do the basics well, but appear to be completely captured / bound by their own image engine.
To me they are nothing but a minor update on Brooks Brothers with a few more niche areas covered. That is not to say Brooks Brothers themselves are horribly one dimensional - an argument could be placed where Black Fleece holds a brighter torch of sartorial creativity than anything pumping out the Black Label and Purple Label lines.
From another viewpoint, if ones motive is to dress well in a casual American / Pseudo British style, I can think of few brands that nail this area quite like Ralph Lauren. However, for those that hang out in different circles, Ralph Lauren clothing may as well be skeet blanket material.
From my perspective: I dress conservatively 5 days a week for 10 hours a day. Given that this is a societal limitation imposed and not my pure free will, I do find that Ralph Lauren belongs in the upper echelons of menswear brands. Basically they are the best out there regarding copper bottomed semi classic menswear. Given a free reign however, I would gladly dump Ralph Lauren for something where artistic integrity rules over streamlined conformity
That said, we have to define menswear properly - is it mere clothing and economy of scale or does artistic merit have its virtuous place? If the former, Ralph Lauren are the greatest brand ever. If the latter, Ralph Lauren are a standardized and well drilled machine that can do only one function (albeit doing it well). Whatever the case, Ralph will continue to steamroller through the industry for the foreseeable future. They are a brand that splits opinion. From one perspective, genius. From another perspective, limited.

Originally Posted by in stitches 

i honestly think that whoever actually makes the #1 spot is meaningless, as there will never be consensus. and listing a #1 will only lead to whining. but maybe that is good press.
i almost think there should be 5 groups of 10, each listed alphabetically.

Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill 

One brand which I don't think has been mentioned yet, but which I believe deserves consideration is Kilgour (or Kilgour, French, Stanbury as was). I think they deserve inclusion on three grounds:
1. For making Astaire's tailcoat for Top Hat. Astaire is the man who most people think of when they picture a man in tails, and KFS made them
2. For making (at least one of) the suits for North by Northwest. The provenance of this suit has been argued over endlessly, and yes I am aware of the close-up showing a Quintino label, but Grant went through some five suits during filming so Kilgour's claim to have made the original seems valid to me
3. For the whole Carlo Brandelli re-branding exercise. This may seem tired now, and it was very commercial, but it was very influential. It introduced Savile Row to a new generation, led the way on RTW, and created an aesthetic which blended traditional SR virtues with what was happening in fashion at the time. This was banding of the highest order
R-O-T

Originally Posted by kashmir 

it's always fun to have one of these topics. wonderful discussions although yeah, definitely rankings should be taken with a pinch of salt.
it's like them Rolling Stones greatest 500 guitarists in which I agree that Jimi Hendrix is numero uno but the rest of the list kept changing in my head throughout the years, barring personal favorites... but I was educated by the list.

Originally Posted by JensenH 

It is quite obvious debating skill and brand knowledge are not your strongest suits.