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What are the greatest menswear brands of all time? - Page 24

post #346 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klobber View Post

In the confusing subterranean region of menswear classification, I can understand how some people can despise Ralph Lauren as a brand. A common and reasonable complaint / dislike will no doubt revolve around aesthetic creativity and the corresponding brand image burned onto the retina and stored in the inner sanctum. They are not a brand for the non conformist or the individualist.
A clothing line in many a sense tells a story and the essence of a good collection is to captivate, entertain, and whisk oneself into that parallel world of fantasy. There is more to clothing than mere "look", "whimsy", "attitude" or "presenting oneself". One only has to look at Prada / Lanvin / Dior / YSL and see how their story unfolds season after season. Like a good movie, it intertwines numerous sub plots intricately to form a masterpiece. While Ralph Lauren are by no means a one trick pony, it is clear that season after season the story repeats over and over. Ralph Lauren do the basics well, but appear to be completely captured / bound by their own image engine.
To me they are nothing but a minor update on Brooks Brothers with a few more niche areas covered. That is not to say Brooks Brothers themselves are horribly one dimensional - an argument could be placed where Black Fleece holds a brighter torch of sartorial creativity than anything pumping out the Black Label and Purple Label lines.
From another viewpoint, if ones motive is to dress well in a casual American / Pseudo British style, I can think of few brands that nail this area quite like Ralph Lauren. However, for those that hang out in different circles, Ralph Lauren clothing may as well be skeet blanket material.
From my perspective: I dress conservatively 5 days a week for 10 hours a day. Given that this is a societal limitation imposed and not my pure free will, I do find that Ralph Lauren belongs in the upper echelons of menswear brands. Basically they are the best out there regarding copper bottomed semi classic menswear. Given a free reign however, I would gladly dump Ralph Lauren for something where artistic integrity rules over streamlined conformity
That said, we have to define menswear properly - is it mere clothing and economy of scale or does artistic merit have its virtuous place? If the former, Ralph Lauren are the greatest brand ever. If the latter, Ralph Lauren are a standardized and well drilled machine that can do only one function (albeit doing it well). Whatever the case, Ralph will continue to steamroller through the industry for the foreseeable future. They are a brand that splits opinion. From one perspective, genius. From another perspective, limited.

Best post on this thread.

I do believe RL belongs on the list, but no way, no how at number 1.
post #347 of 500
i honestly think that whoever actually makes the #1 spot is meaningless, as there will never be consensus. and listing a #1 will only lead to whining. but maybe that is good press. wink.gif

i almost think there should be 5 groups of 10, each listed alphabetically.
post #348 of 500
That's a good question, must there be a ranking system to the article? Or can it be a list, in no particular order?
post #349 of 500
One brand which I don't think has been mentioned yet, but which I believe deserves consideration is Kilgour (or Kilgour, French, Stanbury as was). I think they deserve inclusion on three grounds:

1. For making Astaire's tailcoat for Top Hat. Astaire is the man who most people think of when they picture a man in tails, and KFS made them

2. For making (at least one of) the suits for North by Northwest. The provenance of this suit has been argued over endlessly, and yes I am aware of the close-up showing a Quintino label, but Grant went through some five suits during filming so Kilgour's claim to have made the original seems valid to me

3. For the whole Carlo Brandelli re-branding exercise. This may seem tired now, and it was very commercial, but it was very influential. It introduced Savile Row to a new generation, led the way on RTW, and created an aesthetic which blended traditional SR virtues with what was happening in fashion at the time. This was banding of the highest order

R-O-T
post #350 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i honestly think that whoever actually makes the #1 spot is meaningless, as there will never be consensus. and listing a #1 will only lead to whining. but maybe that is good press. wink.gif
i almost think there should be 5 groups of 10, each listed alphabetically.

I have been soul searching for a number 1, there simply is no such thing.

I have realized there cannot be either. In other ranking areas such as sport, what is the number 1 best soccer team of all time, the best basketball team, the best tennis player, the best NFL team so on and so forth? Despite a slight derail, the point is, if it is impossible to conclusively rank a greatest ever sportsman / team, what chance do we have with clothing?

Even if the ranking was formed by one person, his own alter ego two years down the line could formulate a new favorite. Bottom line none of these rankings / metrics are constant, they will always be subject to the very basic fact that most people can change their minds as tastes evolve or devolve.

One thing for sure, this thread is epic and offered some of the most interesting and well thought out discussions from all members taking part here.

Probable best thread in last six months cheers.gif.
post #351 of 500
My List (not putting in sports brands like nike adidas and reebok)
1. The guy who puts ponies on his shirts
2. Levis
3. Brioni
4. Armani
5. Dior Homme
6. Brooks Brothers
7. Gucci
8. Gianni Versace
9. Prada/ Miu Miu
10. Rick Owens
11. Lacoste
12. Burberry
13. Kiton
14. Oxxford
15. Tommy Hilfiger
16. YSL
17. Zegna
18. Comme des Garcons
19. Yohji Yammamoto
20. Borrelli
21. Nautica
22. Carol Christian Poell
23. Thom Browne
24. Brunello Cucinelli
25. Gianfranco Ferre
26. Helmut Lang
27. Hermes
28. John Lobb
29. Jean Paul Gaultier
30. Salvatore Ferragamo
31. Berluti
32. Jil Sander
33. Martin Margiela
34. Ann Demuelemeester
35. Tom Ford
36.Pierre Cardin
37. Paul Smith
38. Hickey Freeman
39. Cloak (I know it was a short period, but Geller and Plokhov were beautiful together)
40.Belstaff
41. Alden
42. Dolce & Gabbana
43. Diesel
44. Barbour
45. Calvin Klein
46. Hugo Boss
47.Lanvin
48. A.P.C.
49. Stone Island/ C.P. Company
50. FUBU icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Edited by eddievddr10 - 9/27/12 at 10:47pm
post #352 of 500
you listed cucinelli twice. 24 and 36.
post #353 of 500
fixed
post #354 of 500
it's always fun to have one of these topics. wonderful discussions although yeah, definitely rankings should be taken with a pinch of salt.

it's like them Rolling Stones greatest 500 guitarists in which I agree that Jimi Hendrix is numero uno but the rest of the list kept changing in my head throughout the years, barring personal favorites... but I was educated by the list.
post #355 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill View Post

One brand which I don't think has been mentioned yet, but which I believe deserves consideration is Kilgour (or Kilgour, French, Stanbury as was). I think they deserve inclusion on three grounds:
1. For making Astaire's tailcoat for Top Hat. Astaire is the man who most people think of when they picture a man in tails, and KFS made them
2. For making (at least one of) the suits for North by Northwest. The provenance of this suit has been argued over endlessly, and yes I am aware of the close-up showing a Quintino label, but Grant went through some five suits during filming so Kilgour's claim to have made the original seems valid to me
3. For the whole Carlo Brandelli re-branding exercise. This may seem tired now, and it was very commercial, but it was very influential. It introduced Savile Row to a new generation, led the way on RTW, and created an aesthetic which blended traditional SR virtues with what was happening in fashion at the time. This was banding of the highest order
R-O-T


Brands, designers/influencers, and artisans are different animals.  G&G as a brand has much more impact vs. G&G the artisan bespoke shoemaker, Rubanacci as a brand has much more reach than Attolini the artisan cutter, etc.

 

In the example of Kilgour, you are probably paying tribute to the team of artisans that crafted those items using house cuts, but not the actual diffusion brands, be it RTW or Kilgour Shanghai-bespoke operation.

 

EDIT: in some instances the designer will be much greater than the brand he created/worked for, i.e., Tom Ford for Gucci; and in some instances the brand/house is much more important than the artisan, i.e., Vass, John Lobb (both Paris and St James), Oxxford.

post #356 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by kashmir View Post

it's always fun to have one of these topics. wonderful discussions although yeah, definitely rankings should be taken with a pinch of salt.
it's like them Rolling Stones greatest 500 guitarists in which I agree that Jimi Hendrix is numero uno but the rest of the list kept changing in my head throughout the years, barring personal favorites... but I was educated by the list.

 

Except in this thread, some talks about the 500 greatest guitarists, some talks about the 500 greatest guitar albums, some talks about the 500 greatest classic guitarists, some talks about the 500 greatest guitar makers, some talks about the 500 greatest guitars, and some are talking about the 500 greatest guitar album producers.

 

But guitarists, guitars, guitar makers, guitar albums, classical guitars, or guitar album producers are all different beasts.

post #357 of 500

Armani, Ralph Lauren, Brioni, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss..

post #358 of 500
facepalm.gif
post #359 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by JensenH View Post

It is quite obvious debating skill and brand knowledge are not your strongest suits.

My goodness, man. What is wrong with you?
post #360 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Picture definitely needed. I have not seen this. If you give me a picture of this, I will try to dig up this silk Etro shirt with black and purple paisley and ridiculous point collars - cut oversized (as silk satin shirts should be, clearly) and stick a picture of it up in this bitch.

I should try to geta closeup as it hardly shows the pattern here. Oh and your turn my good man.

waywt135.jpg
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