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What are the greatest menswear brands of all time? - Page 21

post #301 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

That's actually an unfair characterization of Fuuma. He has pretty eclectic taste, ranging from Paul Harnden (whose aesthetic, incidentally, he understands more than most, who try to make him a hobo-ninja) to Engineered Garments (pretty ubiquitous at this point) to Margiela (seriously, it was sorta niche in 2001. In 2012, not so much.)

Well I was just calling it as I saw it there. It does seem as if there is something he has against RL especially with the statement, "I would never buy or wear something RL". I know he has that whole "hobo-ninja" thing going on and that's cool, but nothing from RL? Not even a pair of white jeans? C'mon, there's some serious bias up in there.
post #302 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

That's actually an unfair characterization of Fuuma. He has pretty eclectic taste, ranging from Paul Harnden (whose aesthetic, incidentally, he understands more than most, who try to make him a hobo-ninja) to Engineered Garments (pretty ubiquitous at this point) to Margiela (seriously, it was sorta niche in 2001. In 2012, not so much.)

i was not intending to characterize him in that way in general. as i understand it, he does have a very broad understanding of things. i was commenting merely on his stance in this particular instance. the fact that i understood him to have an eclectic taste, was part of why i was confused by his very staunch stance against their aesthetic in entirety, with almost no explanation, at least that i saw.
post #303 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

That's actually an unfair characterization of Fuuma. He has pretty eclectic taste, ranging from Paul Harnden (whose aesthetic, incidentally, he understands more than most, who try to make him a hobo-ninja) to Engineered Garments (pretty ubiquitous at this point) to Margiela (seriously, it was sorta niche in 2001. In 2012, not so much.)

I also wear some Balenciaga, YSL, Lanvin, Véronique Branquinho, Stephan Schneider, Malo, Borrelli, APC, Helmut Lang, Dior Homme, Comme des Garçons, Junya, Uniqlo, Paul Stuart, Nigel Cabourn, Rick Owens, SNS Herning, Corthay, Vass, Massaro, Thom Browne, Cloak, Yohji, April77, Prada, Jil Sander. Just to name a few.
post #304 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by NORE View Post

Well I was just calling it as I saw it there. It does seem as if there is something he has against RL especially with the statement, "I would never buy or wear something RL". I know he has that whole "hobo-ninja" thing going on and that's cool, but nothing from RL? Not even a pair of white jeans? C'mon, there's some serious bias up in there.

I seriously dislike the brand and everything it stands for: I find the universe it has created repulsive, the designs derivative, watered down and opportunistic (tail-riding), the man himself to look like an idiot and have awful taste and the audience to be, well, bros and post-bros. What you associate with a brand or an item or a look is as important if not more than the item itself: no one is stupid enough to buy bespoke for the cut or quality, the intangibles are really what matter. I am not necessarily talking about marketing here although it tries to influence this, but the fantasy world we create around objects, looks, references etc.
post #305 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Picture definitely needed. I have not seen this. If you give me a picture of this, I will try to dig up this silk Etro shirt with black and purple paisley and ridiculous point collars - cut oversized (as silk satin shirts should be, clearly) and stick a picture of it up in this bitch.

I'll try to wear it, not sure I can still fit it though as it is slimmer than dior homme was in the same size. You can't really see what the pattern is in pictures though, you hafta be up close, I imagine it as some sort of homo-signifier in Italy and Triad coded wear in HK, all rolled into one tasteful package.
post #306 of 500
well, despite the fact i do not agree with you, i do appreciate you giving some more explanation. i understand where you are coming from, and i can respect that.

smile.gif
post #307 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

it is well liked by MC people but this just speaks to the mediocrity of most of the posters here.

Nice.
post #308 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

I seriously dislike the brand and everything it stands for: I find the universe it has created repulsive, the designs derivative, watered down and opportunistic (tail-riding), the man himself to look like an idiot and have awful taste and the audience to be, well, bros and post-bros. What you associate with a brand or an item or a look is as important if not more than the item itself: no one is stupid enough to buy bespoke for the cut or quality, the intangibles are really what matter. I am not necessarily talking about marketing here although it tries to influence this, but the fantasy world we create around objects, looks, references etc.

I disagree with you about his being derivative, btw, though certainly, some of this lines, especially the luxury lines, like Purple Label and Black Label, and the Rugby line. were certainly Johnny come latelies. He actually was well ahead of a lot of trends, and can be credited with starting at least one.

He made colorful and wide ties during a period when ties were slim and somber, and really, ushed in that trend starting in the early 70s. His RRL line was on the Americana kick in the late 1990s, when no one else was doing it. The motorcycle in the boutique, the vintage, western thing, that all seems pretty ubiquitous now, but no designer or retailer was doing that when the first RRL stores opened, then closed, before the world caught on (and really Europe was behind both Japan and North America on this one), and it became a success.

I perversely like brands that other people hate, though, whether it's Fuuma's disdain for "mediocrity", or MCs disdain for "branding", or the Styleforum's (and really, all of fashion's) disdain for the truly tacky. I see something magificently douchey about Christian Audigier's bizarre American Dream, and I think that Louis Vuitton's monogram was a stroke of genius, and I enjoy Ralph Lauren's wonderfully new money version of old money taste.
post #309 of 500
i would agree with that. while i personally would not wear some of the items you mentioned, i do see them all having a place, and i see how they work for, and even look good on, others. just like i cant imagine myself wearing the gladiator print prada shirt, that fuuma described, but i recognize that on him, he may be killing it.
post #310 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

I seriously dislike the brand and everything it stands for: I find the universe it has created repulsive, the designs derivative, watered down and opportunistic (tail-riding), the man himself to look like an idiot and have awful taste and the audience to be, well, bros and post-bros. What you associate with a brand or an item or a look is as important if not more than the item itself: no one is stupid enough to buy bespoke for the cut or quality, the intangibles are really what matter. I am not necessarily talking about marketing here although it tries to influence this, but the fantasy world we create around objects, looks, references etc.

I get that. I can respect that. Still doesn't disprove that RL is the all-time menswear brand of, well, ever. I am not a Jew or Aryan or a WASP et.al. and do not wish to be. Yet there is an area within the RL universe that still speaks to me and helps me express my individuality. With quality bang-for-buck garments & accessories. He offers many items that only a few people would wear with confidence, and I don't mean the obscene logo'd stuff. For instance, for every thumbs-up I get on here for my looks, I get 30 down. There is no denying the man has done something incredible.

Check this out: I wear almost exclusively RL clothing. I have yet to see myself walking down the street or anywhere for that matter. There are just so many items to choose from that makes this possible.
post #311 of 500
Even though I may disagree with some particulars, I think Fuuma's added a lot to the discussion, because most of us didn't really even question RL on the list. Even those who don't wear much of his stuff (like me), still saw his place immediately. As such, whether you agree with Fuuma's style, nevertheless his point is valid and it's good to get us thinking. We all just assume RL is the greatest around here, without asking or wondering why.

Fuuma, I'll see your Prada with the Follow Me Embroidery Shirt. I also had the linen gauze 04 (I think) Prada handsewn shirt with a big hawk or something on the back. It's in a closet somewhere, though the Follow Me was given to a japanese friend on whom it looked much better.
post #312 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc View Post

Even though I may disagree with some particulars, I think Fuuma's added a lot to the discussion, because most of us didn't really even question RL on the list. Even those who don't wear much of his stuff (like me), still saw his place immediately. As such, whether you agree with Fuuma's style, nevertheless his point is valid and it's good to get us thinking. We all just assume RL is the greatest around here, without asking or wondering why.
Fuuma, I'll see your Prada with the Follow Me Embroidery Shirt. I also had the linen gauze 04 (I think) Prada handsewn shirt with a big hawk or something on the back. It's in a closet somewhere, though the Follow Me was given to a japanese friend on whom it looked much better.

That is because it's a no brainer. Some have tried to attack the name change, the fact that he borrowed from other brands, etc. but at the end of the day, he is the man. There is no competition in the context of greatest menswear brand of all time and I think that is the point being lost here. Not the greatest contribution to menswear, or the most handwork or the best fabrics. The greatest taking everything into consideration. If anyone can disprove that and show me another greater brand of all time I will immediately do what I mentioned in another thread and walk away from all of my RL stuff. Serious.
post #313 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc View Post

Even though I may disagree with some particulars, I think Fuuma's added a lot to the discussion, because most of us didn't really even question RL on the list. Even those who don't wear much of his stuff (like me), still saw his place immediately. As such, whether you agree with Fuuma's style, nevertheless his point is valid and it's good to get us thinking. We all just assume RL is the greatest around here, without asking or wondering why.
Fuuma, I'll see your Prada with the Follow Me Embroidery Shirt. I also had the linen gauze 04 (I think) Prada handsewn shirt with a big hawk or something on the back. It's in a closet somewhere, though the Follow Me was given to a japanese friend on whom it looked much better.

ill +1 that. and despite my dislike for some of what he said, i will admit, sometimes a little shock value is needed to spark conversation, especially if it is contrarian. again, i still dont agree with much of what he said, but he succeeded in bringing to the table another point of view, that caused people to question the status-quo.
post #314 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by NORE View Post

That is because it's a no brainer. Some have tried to attack the name change, the fact that he borrowed from other brands, etc. but at the end of the day, he is the man. There is no competition in the context of greatest menswear brand of all time and I think that is the point being lost here. Not the greatest contribution to menswear, or the most handwork or the best fabrics. The greatest taking everything into consideration. If anyone can disprove that and show me another greater brand of all time I will immediately do what I mentioned in another thread and walk away from all of my RL stuff. Serious.

Nobody is doing that, and it's a list of FIFTY brands. So, there's room.

RL has had MORE than his share of chat/hype on this thread, and nearly every facet of his 'greatness' has been discussed (more than once). It's refreshing and useful, therefore, to get a counter opinion.

I swear you MC girlz act like RL is your grandmother, chosen religious deity, or that 90% of your networth in tied up in RL Polo shares. lol8[1].gif j/k
post #315 of 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc View Post

RL has had MORE than his share of chat/hype on this thread, and nearly every facet of his 'greatness' has been discussed (more than once).

Not unless I missed the long discussion of black America's long love affair with Polo, and how the up-market hip-hop fashion thing being driven by Kanye and Jay-Z has it's roots in gangs breaking into NY Polo stores to boost hundreds of bathrobes and go ice skating in them. YSL, BB, MMM; none of them have anything like the LoLifes.
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