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Does my trouser-maker need a fitter? [pics]

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Below are pictures of bespoke trousers I recently commissioned. I purposefully broke them in by wearing them a few times before appealing to you all for some feedback regarding fit. The fabric is very lightweight wool from Reid & Taylor (thanks Ed!).

Before the "Bespoke Police" jump all over me, yes, these are true bespoke. I had a basted fitting and a paper pattern drafted that is all my own. My tailor is not really a "fitter" but I think he did a good job. I am considering shortening the rise a smidgen, and slightly narrowing the legs. I keep going back and forth on those though, not sure what I should do, but it any event, those would be very minor changes which are more stylistic than anything else.

I should mention, at the same time I had a pleated (single) pair made, and I like those less. They ended up kind of blousy in the front. I think pleats are more difficult to get right, and I don't know enough to put into words how I'd like them to fit, so I guess I'll be going with plain fronts for the time being.

Please let me know if you have any thoughts on how I might be able to improve the next pair. Also, if you should suggest any details that you like for your bespoke trousers. I think I might have him remove the right back pocket, or maybe put a flap on it. I never use it anyway...


post #2 of 16
generally pretty good.

I'd shorten the rise a scootch and probably taper the leg a bit. That leg opening looks awful big.
post #3 of 16
You need to have a button added to your back right pocket.
The besom pocket will not lay flat after repeated dry-cleaning.
Have onseam front pockets for a cleaner, and more classic appearance.
Do not taper your pant legs anymore.
This current skinny pant rage will soon fade, plus it looks horrible
You might consider a watch pocket for the pant front
Highly recommend 2 Forward Pleats on your trouser.
This style pleat is more difficult to get right, but when done correctly,
Creates a much more flattering appearance.
post #4 of 16
Your stance seems a bit unnatural, if not the back rise might need a touch shortening. I personally don't get back pockets on my trousers. I never ue them and nobody ever sees them. Plus, you can have alterations without pockets moving around. I bet the slanted pockets would lay a bit better if they were a touch looser in the waist. Also, I would get the hem in the front shortened slightly. ~0.5"
post #5 of 16
The waist/seat is a tad, hence the gaping side pockets - see a thread that was here at the weekend on this.

Keep the right back pocket whether or not you use it but have a button on it. Check out the pocket jets on RTW trousers, they are usually deeper and that would help the back pockets' appearance markedly.

The legs could do with a little slimming down, the bottoms look far too big. Again check RTW for a sizing.
post #6 of 16
Trousers are nice.
High right hip, would cut your right hip 3/8" higher. The tutorial on gaping pockets is useful here. It's about how the waistband is attached to the trouser, drawing in fullness over the hips and fronts to create enough ease thru the abdomen and seat. Tapering the leg is up to you.
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
I actually posted in that Gaping Pockets thread. Would you mind explaining, in umm, simplier terms, what I should tell my pantmaker? That the front needs to be wider 2" below the waistband? In the Gaping Pockets thread, the solution for RTW was to bring the side-seam forward, at the top only. What would you suggest for custom pants?

Also, what does it mean to cut a hip higher?
post #8 of 16
If you measure your trouser, when you are wearing them, from the top of the waistband to the floor along the outseam, the right will be higher. Your pantmaker knows.

If you have a 36" waist, each side of the trouser waistband would be 18". You cut the top of the trousers, front and back combined, to measure 18 1/2". The extra 1/2" is drawn/shrunk in over the fronts and hips. This creates ease over the hips and lets the pockets relax. This is all technical stuff tailors discuss. You might get funny looks or resistance telling your pantmaker this stuff.
post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poloboy View Post

You need to have a button added to your back right pocket.
The besom pocket will not lay flat after repeated dry-cleaning.
Have onseam front pockets for a cleaner, and more classic appearance.
Do not taper your pant legs anymore.
This current skinny pant rage will soon fade, plus it looks horrible
Highly recommend 2 Forward Pleats on your trouser.
This style pleat is more difficult to get right, but when done correctly,
Creates a much more flattering appearance.

 

The OP looks like a fairly average built man, I don't think pleats would flatter his build...unless he wants to look like a pear. 

post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

If you measure your trouser, when you are wearing them, from the top of the waistband to the floor along the outseam, the right will be higher. Your pantmaker knows.
If you have a 36" waist, each side of the trouser waistband would be 18". You cut the top of the trousers, front and back combined, to measure 18 1/2". The extra 1/2" is drawn/shrunk in over the fronts and hips. This creates ease over the hips and lets the pockets relax. This is all technical stuff tailors discuss. You might get funny looks or resistance telling your pantmaker this stuff.

Ok, I think I understand. Assume I have a 36" waist, and the top of the trousers, under the waistband measures 36.5". The extra 1/2" is taken in in the form of a dart on each side on the front, near the pockets, on flat front pants. Are you saying that for me, the top of the trousers should be increased to say, and extra 3/8" to 35.8"? Each dart would then be a little deeper/longer?
post #11 of 16
I strongly disagree.
Trousers with forward pleats that fit correctly will certainly be more flattering
Than a plain front pant.
The problem that most of the posters on this forum who denigrate the look and fit
Of a pant with forward pleats, have never seen or worn a pair that fits correctly.
Most people only see RTW pants with reverse pleats which are hideous.
The rare RTW forward pleated trouser in the marketplace generally has shallow
pleats that open up, and have too short of a rise.
The correct fit should have a main pleat with a 11/2 inch deep pleat to lay correctly
across the hips, and a longer rise to hang straight down the leg.
When this style is done correctly, there is no comparison to a plain front
pant in terms of style and fit.
There is not the ballooning so many talk about, and in reality, can be quite slimming.
I feel sorry for all of the posters who speak badly about pleated pants, when in
reality, all they are doing is showing there ignorance on the subject.
post #12 of 16
I didn't use the word dart
post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poloboy View Post

I strongly disagree.
Trousers with forward pleats that fit correctly will certainly be more flattering
Than a plain front pant.
The problem that most of the posters on this forum who denigrate the look and fit
Of a pant with forward pleats, have never seen or worn a pair that fits correctly.
Most people only see RTW pants with reverse pleats which are hideous.
The rare RTW forward pleated trouser in the marketplace generally has shallow
pleats that open up, and have too short of a rise.
The correct fit should have a main pleat with a 11/2 inch deep pleat to lay correctly
across the hips, and a longer rise to hang straight down the leg.
When this style is done correctly, there is no comparison to a plain front
pant in terms of style and fit.
There is not the ballooning so many talk about, and in reality, can be quite slimming.
I feel sorry for all of the posters who speak badly about pleated pants, when in
reality, all they are doing is showing there ignorance on the subject.

Well, a picture would probably be helpful, if you're so emphatic about it.

post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I didn't use the word dart

Please to explain? Where does the .5" go in your example, the side seams?
Edited by Renault78law - 9/18/12 at 9:43pm
post #15 of 16

I think it looks good overall, right length for you and the style.

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