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Pick stitching - Does Samuelsohn pick stitch the lapels of their blazers and suit jackets

post #1 of 12
9/17/12 at 1:13am
Thread Starter 

To me, pick stitching is the sine qua non of a truly elegant garment.   Plus closing the vents, for a vent less look for the jacket.

 

Second question, for those of us who live in the boondocks, how can we get a complete list of the measurements required by Samuelsohn to make a custom made tuxedo (also where other than Samuelsohn does one go to get  a 3 button brocade vest with lapel to wear with the tux?

 

Enquiring minds want to know.

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post #2 of 12
9/17/12 at 3:55am
spam[1].gif ?


Pick stitch can look effective but I hope you realise that is is machine done in many instances and not the mark of anything more than a process in manufacture.

A vent-less jacket is the exact opposite of your apparent desire - in elegant (save an evening dress where it is normal - still it is a personal choice.

Why not ask Samueljohn what they require rather than ask here?
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post #3 of 12
9/17/12 at 7:28am
As far as I know, all non-fused coats have pick-stitching along the front edge, the only difference is whether it is done in a way that is visible or not. The pick-stitching is necessary to keep the edge from rolling and the seam slightly rolled to the inside so it's not visible.

I won't get into my opinion on brocade vests, as I'm not sure everyone shares my hatred for them...confused.gif
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post #4 of 12
9/17/12 at 7:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

As far as I know, all non-fused coats have pick-stitching along the front edge,

Not true.
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post #5 of 12
9/17/12 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

Not true.
I stand corrected smile.gif

How do you keep the seam edge rolled to the inside without pick-stitching?
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post #6 of 12
9/17/12 at 4:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Ross View Post

To me, pick stitching is the sine qua non of a truly elegant garment.  

What. the. fuck.
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post #7 of 12
9/17/12 at 4:51pm

it is always apparent in gbr's replies that he simultaneously hates that people ask questions here, but can't help but answer them.

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post #8 of 12
9/17/12 at 6:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

I stand corrected smile.gif
How do you keep the seam edge rolled to the inside without pick-stitching?

A good press will keep the edges in place, until a dry cleaner or a person with a steamer gets a hold of it and all bets are off. Of course, it's useful to have it but some people object to the look of it so often garments are made without it.
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post #9 of 12
9/17/12 at 6:46pm
From my Samuelsohn wardrobe, 4 lapels have pick stitching and 1 does not.

On a suit and a SC, the picking is along the whole of the lapel. On two other suits, the picking is only on the upper/back part of the lapel (what is that called??) while on the lower part of the lapel you can see the stitching on the back side but not the front.
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post #10 of 12
9/17/12 at 8:03pm

My Samuelsohn navy blazer has pick stitching throughout the body. Really sturdy stuff and been with me for almost 3 years now.

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post #11 of 12
9/17/12 at 8:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sullivan025 View Post

My Samuelsohn navy blazer has pick stitching throughout the body. Really sturdy stuff and been with me for almost 3 years now.

Patiently waiting for my new Sammy mtm's.  Wool 12oz navy SC and a 14oz POW check drool.gif  Went with brown horn on both and 3.75' lapels.

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post #12 of 12
9/18/12 at 9:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

A good press will keep the edges in place, until a dry cleaner or a person with a steamer gets a hold of it and all bets are off. Of course, it's useful to have it but some people object to the look of it so often garments are made without it.
It is possible to do it in a way that is invisible though, isn't it? If you don't pull it as tight then it doesn't make the obvious dips along the edge. And what about things like pocket-flaps? On most of my coats if you look at the rear-side of the flaps you can see there is prick-stitching around the edge, to stop it rolling, but that is not actually visible from the outside.
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