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Samuelsohn MTM Advice - Page 2

post #16 of 33
Thread Starter 

Just to reply to my earlier question, I e-mailed Samuelsohn directly to see if they could provide information on the differences between the "Gable" style coat (i.e. non-Rosen) and "Ashton" style coat (i.e. J.P. Tilford @ Rosen). He said that he couldn't get into specific measurements, but he said that generally speaking, the ashton had a slightly shorter coat length and slightly trimmer waist compared to the Gable. This makes sense, as they seemed to be similar at a glance. He also indicated that all of the J.P. Tilford models were exclusive to Harry Rosen, and didn't have a "non-Tilford" equivalent. However, as some other SFers have pointed out, some J.P. Tilford pieces are sold through Nordstrom's in the U.S., so I'm still a little unclear how that works.

 

Also, I finally picked up the suit from Harry Rosen; they had entered my phone number incorrectly into their system, which is why I hadn't received a call to pick it up. In my eye, it fits well and I like it a lot. Now to find a sport coat or two, preferrably in the B&S Forum and/or Ebay...

post #17 of 33
If you're brave enough, put the suit on, take a picture and post it for critique..devil.gif.
post #18 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post

2. Since this is my first higher-quality suit, it wasn't my intention to get too many bells and whistles. In fact, surgeons cuffs were really the only thing that I had in mind. I was also planning on getting a basic level cloth. As a result, I questioned myself if the MTM option was really neccesary, at least at this stage of my wardrobe upgrade.

 

3. The OTR model actually fit me quite well as-is. It needed a little lengthening of the right sleeve, and the back to be brought in a tad, but other than that I think it looked pretty good.

 

After mentioning surgeon's cuffs to the SA, he went and confirmed with the in-house tailor that they would be able to add the cuffs to the OTR model for $50 (i.e. the same as they would charge for the cuffs on a MTM).

 

+1.

 

Since I started on SF in May this year, I've used the search button to read a lot of posts, and one of the most frequently asked questions is from someone new to suiting, wishing to immediately go to MTM or bespoke. Hell, I did this 5 years ago when I went MTM with Raja Fashions in 2007!

 

If you get RTW that fits you well, good construction (in terms of fabric, canvassing, etc), with minor alteration, at a reasonable price point, then there is no need at this stage - in terms of wardrobe upgrade and one's suiting knowledge and experience - to immediately go the MTM or bespoke route.

 

I'm 40R in RTW suits that require minor alterations. Previously, I've worn (and still wear) Charles Tyrwhitt suits - good fit but average construction in terms of fused canvassing. One of their suits with a spare of trousers would cost me £300-£400 (£300, I think). At that price level, I can get a half-canvassed suit with standard VBC super 110s - 120s fabric from Suit Supply that fit me (London range) - jacket, shame about the trousers. Upping my budget slightly for a LOT more quality, I bought half-canvassed, tropical wool Ede & Ravenscroft suit in the sale for £400 (normally £600, and each suit comes with spare pair of trousers - required minor sleeve alteration £25) . Ede & Ravenscroft are now my go-to place for suits.

 

Like yourself, I'm similar stature - albeit a bit smaller at 6ft and around 185lbs. So no problems with RTW in terms of fit. So, if you know a couple of brands that provide decent quality for the pricing point, then you can establish a base-point to compare other suiting brands and pricing points in terms of fit and construction. As you build up your suiting knowledge, you will be in a better position to determine what are you getting for the extra money, and whether the trade-off in terms of better construction, fabrics, etc is worth the extra expense (if indeed, you are getting better quality!). Hence, why Suit Supply seems to be the benchmark for a decent suit for the pricing point.

 

You can then do the same for shoes, shirts, ties, etc.


Edited by Putonghua73 - 9/30/12 at 10:58am
post #19 of 33
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the comments Putonghua73. That's what I'm quickly coming to realize: there isn't a single magic bullet solution for where to go for the best bang-for-buck suits. It's really going to depend on each person, their shape, their stylistic preferences, etc. However, I was considering taking a flyer and ordering something from Suitsupply as well, as many speak highly of it. However, I think my next purchase will be a good quality sport jacket (or two), as that's something I'm really in need of.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ebichuman View Post

If you're brave enough, put the suit on, take a picture and post it for critique..devil.gif.

 

That's the plan! My brother borrowed my good camera for a sailing trip, but he's back this week so I'll try to take some time to take a couple shots. The good news is that since it's Harry Rosen, I can get free alterations done if neccesary. Personally, I think it's pretty good, but my eye for fit isn't on the same level as many here, so who knows. If nothing else, my fiancee was impressed. smile.gif Although compared to my current lame, shapeless suits, it would be hard not to see an improvement.

post #20 of 33
Thread Starter 

Okay, here are the photos of my Samuelsohn suit. Let me know if anything jumps out at you. smile.gif

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #21 of 33
Looks better than most suits I see around King and Bay. You chose a relatively traditional cut, that is not as short and slim as some wear it today and I think it suits you will well. The trousers fit well, too, good silhouette and not too short (whenever men choose to wear short, no break, suit pants they better be really slim, otherwise they look silly). I hope some folks with more experience and better eye for detail can chime in as well but from where I stand, it's a very good RTW fit - we'll done. Wear it well and enjoy (with a tie, eh?!) wink.gif
post #22 of 33
Not bad.

The pants are wee bit little long = too much pudling. I suggest shortening so there is only a slight break. Perhaps hem at an angle.

The back could use a little cleaning and the waist taken in a bit.

You also have one shoulder lower than the other but that can't be hidden easily or at all by in store tailor.
post #23 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebichuman View Post

Looks better than most suits I see around King and Bay. You chose a relatively traditional cut, that is not as short and slim as some wear it today and I think it suits you will well. The trousers fit well, too, good silhouette and not too short (whenever men choose to wear short, no break, suit pants they better be really slim, otherwise they look silly). I hope some folks with more experience and better eye for detail can chime in as well but from where I stand, it's a very good RTW fit - we'll done. Wear it well and enjoy (with a tie, eh?!) wink.gif

 

Exactly, I didn't want anything too "fashion forward" for this suit. My intention was to get something pretty conservative that will (hopefully) last me for many years to come. I'll probably be wearing it a few times a month for meetings out of the office, etc. My line of thought was that stuff that's a little more fashion forward (i.e. shorter jacket, slimmer cut, etc) may be better experimented with through cheaper alternatives, such as B&S or online retailers (such as suitsupply, which I've heard some good things about). If it's something that I may not want to wear in a few years, I don't want to spend too much up front. As for the tie, I was too lazy to put one on since I took the picture on a Saturday, but buttoned the collar to reflect the fit more accurately. Even I wouldn't go around with my top button done up and no tie... smile.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenon View Post

Not bad.
The pants are wee bit little long = too much pudling. I suggest shortening so there is only a slight break. Perhaps hem at an angle.
The back could use a little cleaning and the waist taken in a bit.
You also have one shoulder lower than the other but that can't be hidden easily or at all by in store tailor.

 

It's interesting, because when the SA was measuring the pants prior to hemming, I had a hunch that he may have left them a tad long, but it's hard to tell when the pants are unfinished and I decided to defer to his expertise. I agree that they could probably come up a half an inch or so, especially in the front. I also agree that the waist could be slighly narrower, although who knows if I'll need that extra space in a few years (hopefully not!). And the shoulder is a good observation as well. In fact, the black Samuelsohn blazer that I referred to in an earlier post (which I believe was MTM) had some extra padding added to the one shoulder to try to compensate. It's not a huge issue for me, though, and something that I'm happy to live with in a RTW.

 

Thanks to both of you for the feedback, very much appreciated!

post #24 of 33
Thread Starter 

Just a heads-up to any Toronto-based SFers who may be in the market for a Samuelsohn MTM. I was at Rego today (in First Canadian Place) to pick up some shoes that I had ordered. I was discussing Samuelsohn with the SA, and he mentioned that they offer the Samelsohn MTM "discount" prices year-round. In other words, the discounted MTM prices that Harry Rosen offers during their twice-annual trunk sales are the same as Rego's year-round MTM prices.

 

He showed me their fabric book and it looked like they had pretty much the same stuff that Rosen offers, although perhaps there are a few high-end fabrics that are only available at Rosen. Nothing that I noticed at a glance, though.

 

All in all, it seems like a decent deal to me.

post #25 of 33
Thanks for the heads up; might check it out.
post #26 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post

Just a heads-up to any Toronto-based SFers who may be in the market for a Samuelsohn MTM. I was at Rego today (in First Canadian Place) to pick up some shoes that I had ordered. I was discussing Samuelsohn with the SA, and he mentioned that they offer the Samelsohn MTM "discount" prices year-round. In other words, the discounted MTM prices that Harry Rosen offers during their twice-annual trunk sales are the same as Rego's year-round MTM prices.

He showed me their fabric book and it looked like they had pretty much the same stuff that Rosen offers, although perhaps there are a few high-end fabrics that are only available at Rosen. Nothing that I noticed at a glance, though.

All in all, it seems like a decent deal to me.

I actually just comissioned for a MTM suit which should arrive at the end of this month. I will let you guys know how the experience goes. The SA I was dealing with was super friendly and helpful. Hopefully this translates into them providing me with a decent fitting suit.
post #27 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SFA View Post


I actually just comissioned for a MTM suit which should arrive at the end of this month. I will let you guys know how the experience goes. The SA I was dealing with was super friendly and helpful. Hopefully this translates into them providing me with a decent fitting suit.

Just curious: was your MTM ordered through Rego, or another retailer?

post #28 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post

Just curious: was your MTM ordered through Rego, or another retailer?

Rego
post #29 of 33
Thread Starter 
That's great SFA; I'd love to hear how it turns out! The SA I spoke to the other day was pretty friendly as well (although he was trying to sell me pretty hard on the idea of wearing a black suit for my wedding).
Edited by Firefox - 10/16/12 at 12:36pm
post #30 of 33
Thread Starter 

SFA, did you happen to get your MTM from Rego yet? Just curious how it turned out...

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